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How to select Eyepiece Diopter in Nikon F3?


jnsengupta

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<p>Most of the newer version of autofocus SLR and DSLR cameras have variable diopter adjustment, which we can rotate to adjust the viewfinder. But older cameras like Nikon F3 needs replacement of the different number diopter eyepiece that goes from (-) to 0 to (+).<br>

Does anyone know how to select what is needed? It is probably time for me to get one.<br>

Thanks for your help.</p>

 

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<p>That will depend on your eyeslight, i.e. eye glasses perscription, for your dominent eye; the eye you use to compose. E.g. if you are near sighted (short sighted as they call it in the UK I think), say you are a -2 in the US (in some parts of the world they call that 200 degrees short sighted??), you need a -2 eye piece. The + ones are for correcting far sightedness.</p>
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<p>I'd say ,<br />- if you already wear glasses: choose the diopter with the same correction factor as the glass in your glasses in front of the eye you like to use to look through your viewfinder.. 9pfffew, does this make sence in english ??)<br />- if you don't : Pay a visit to an optometrist to get a prescription for glasses( if you need them) , and then back to the previous advice....</p>
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<p>I believe the Nikon standard for the era was (without a correction lens) -1 at 1 meter, which is why there is no -1 correction lens available. If memory serves me, the number printed on the correction lens represents the combined diopter adjustment or the final product (correction lens+finder+lens). When I shoot, I wear eyeglasses which correct my nearsightedness, I found I needed a "0" diopter, and magically everything snapped everything into sharp focus. I highly recommend getting your eyes checked by an optometrist first, and deciding if you will be shooting with or without your glasses. Then you can get the appropriate correction lens.</p>
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<p>The correct diopter value is what you need to read at a distance of about 18". If you wear glasses, it is the <strong>difference </strong>between the prescription of your glasses and the value you need for reading.</p>

<p>For example, my driving glasses are about +1.75, but I need about 2.75 for reading. Wearing my driving glasses, I set the Nikon finder about two clicks positive (i.e., +1.0).</p>

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<p>Thank you everyone. Your feedback is very helpful. Yes, I wear glasses and have critical astigmatism. I don't have much problem with landscape photography. But I notice soft focusing lately with macro photography.<br>

Alex wrote that these eyepieces are cheap, but I find it about $25 a piece in eBay. If anyone knows a place to buy it cheap, but not counterfeited, let me know.</p>

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<p>My experiences match the Nikon PDF referenced, basically I have myopia at distance, and use the exact -x.0 of my rx for my shooting eye, for the -x.0 diopter for my DE-3 finder. <br>

No HP finder needed.<br>

Same with Leica M bodies, exact diopter value as my rx.</p>

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<p>I have a puzzle about the diopter that I hope I can be enlightened. If you use the automatic focus, whenever the focus beeps, that would mean that what you want to photograph is in focus. If that is the case, does this make the diopter unnecessary in automatic focusing situation? I am near sighted, but I never adjust the diopter on my D200, and frankly, I never notice any difference either way I turned it. Thanks in advance for your answer. </p>
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<p>Most SLR viewfinders are adjusted for a person who should wear -1.0 correction for slight nearsightedness, but doesn't wear glasses. That's why photography is the only field (which I know of) where it makes sense to have a +0. <em>Plus zero?</em> Anyway, screw-in diopter correction lenses and adjustable diopter correction factor in the native -1.0 (or thereabouts) correction of the camera.</p>
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