Total beginner

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Ok, I have read alot of posts on getting started processing film. <br>

I guess now I have an overload of info now and am confused. My question is <br>

I want to buy a kit all at once to be able to process my negatives B&W 35mm and 120 and 220,<br>

my space is limited so I will just be processing and then scanning them into my computer for now. Any suggestions?<br>

I would eventually like to print as well. Does anyone have photos of there set up ?<br>

Please let me know what I would need for a complete B&W processing set up or any links.<br>

Thanks so much</p>

[randy_johnson5]

<p>I would pick up a good used Paterson plastic tank and 2 adjustable reels (Ebay). They are easier to load when you are starting out. I would start with the tank that takes either 2 35mm reels or one 120. I wouldn't go larger than the tank that takes 4 35mm reels or two 120. You could get into some agitation issues with larger tanks. The film can be washed in these tanks with the faucet adapter that you will also need to get. Get one or two Beseler Color thermometers (used if you can find them) because you can adjust the dials for accuracy or a digital thermometer meant for water. You might want to calibrate with an old fashioned fever thermometer (or digital fever thermometer). Accurate temperature control is very important, especially with the developer. I would compare the accuracy of all the thermometers with each other (use at least 3). The Graylab timers are pretty standard and easy to use. You will need some film hangers for drying and a film squegee (keep it very clean to avoid scratching).<br>

Then just get a variety of bottles for chemicals and a couple of plastic funnels. I like the quart sized for film processing. You will also need some graduates for measuring out quantities. Glass or stainless steel cool or warm quicker to temperature than plastic. You will need a clean plastic bucket and some type of stirrer to mix dry chemicals. A plastic tub is useful as a water bath to keep your chemicals in graduates at the same temperature.<br>

You might also want to pick up a roll of darkroom cloth. It's plasticized cloth good for over bathroom doors. I got some one inch x 1/4 in. flat wood moulding and glued the darkroom cloth between the two wood strips one one edge. Then you can screw in two little eyelets on top so the cloth hangs straight and even across the door. Leave extra length for a good light seal at the bottom of the door. I use large picture hangers and put a small nail through the hole into the TOP surface of the wood door moulding on my bathroom door. (Mount on the outside of the door) No visible marks in the moulding and you can just rotate them out of the way unseen until you want to hang the darkroom cloth again. You must load film into the film tanks in total darkness.<br>

I always use stop bath and hypo clearing agent for consistent processing. Use photo flo. Have fun!</p>

[randy_johnson5]

<p>I would pick up a good used Paterson plastic tank and 2 adjustable reels (Ebay). They are easier to load when you are starting out. I would start with the tank that takes either 2 35mm reels or one 120. I wouldn't go larger than the tank that takes 4 35mm reels or two 120. You could get into some agitation issues with larger tanks. The film can be washed in these tanks with the faucet adapter that you will also need to get. Get one or two Beseler Color thermometers (used if you can find them) because you can adjust the dials for accuracy or a digital thermometer meant for water. You might want to calibrate with an old fashioned fever thermometer (or digital fever thermometer). Accurate temperature control is very important, especially with the developer. I would compare the accuracy of all the thermometers with each other (use at least 3). The Graylab timers are pretty standard and easy to use. You will need some film hangers for drying and a film squegee (keep it very clean to avoid scratching).<br>

Then just get a variety of bottles for chemicals and a couple of plastic funnels. I like the quart sized for film processing. You will also need some graduates for measuring out quantities. Glass or stainless steel cool or warm quicker to temperature than plastic. You will need a clean plastic bucket and some type of stirrer to mix dry chemicals. A plastic tub is useful as a water bath to keep your chemicals in graduates at the same temperature.<br>

You might also want to pick up a roll of darkroom cloth. It's plasticized cloth good for over bathroom doors. I got some one inch x 1/4 in. flat wood moulding and glued the darkroom cloth between the two wood strips one one edge. Then you can screw in two little eyelets on top so the cloth hangs straight and even across the door. Leave extra length for a good light seal at the bottom of the door. I use large picture hangers and put a small nail through the hole into the TOP surface of the wood door moulding on my bathroom door. (Mount on the outside of the door) No visible marks in the moulding and you can just rotate them out of the way unseen until you want to hang the darkroom cloth again. You must load film into the film tanks in total darkness.<br>

I always use stop bath and hypo clearing agent for consistent processing. Use photo flo. Have fun!</p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Are there any kits that come with most that?</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Cheapest way is buying everything used on eBay -- kits won't be great value.</p>

 

[randy_johnson5]

<p>I see a few new kits available on Ebay for around $80.00. Yet, I wouldn't recommend any of them because they don't have enough stuff. There are many plastic tanks out there, but I still like the old Patterson's. You can check the big photo houses like B & H photo. Look at any photo magazine and there will be plenty of ads. Your best bet is to pick them up used off Ebay or KEF. If you need personalized help, contact me privately.<br>

Here is my list:<br>

1 Patterson tank + 2 adjustable reels.<br>

1 Patterson faucet connection tube for washing film in the tank<br>

4 32 oz graduates --glass or stainless steel is best, but plastic o.k.<br>

1 Handy measure small glass graduate for measuring small quantities 1-2 oz <br>

4 1 qt plastic storage bottles<br>

2 1/ gal plastic storage bottles<br>

1 1 gal plastic storage bottle<br>

1 plastic funnel<br>

1 plastic mixing stirring tool<br>

1 2 gal bucket for mixing chemicals<br>

1 plastic tub for keeping chemicals at the same temp. before use<br>

1 Timer Graylab is good. You need to re-set times quickly and easily for each step.<br>

1 or 2 darkroom thermometers -digital is probably more accurate<br>

1 set film clips for hanging film<br>

6-8 wooden clothes pins for hanging weights for film drying<br>

plastic negative sleeves (Print file are great) for 35mm and 120<br>

1 Kodak B/W film processing guide book<br>

1 film squeegee--foam or rubber-keep clean!<br>

Use Kodak HC110 dilution B-Easy to use liquid. Mix it once and throw away.<br>

Stop bath, Fixer (I use liquid Rapid fix) and Photo flo. Use Hypo clearing agent for better hypo removal before washing. </p>

<p> </p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Ok I got the patterson tank !<br>

I actually got if off the classifieds on here.<br>

Where do you get the faucet connection? I can't seem to find it.</p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Also where can I get a B/W film processing guide book? I can't find anything.</p>

 

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Check the <a href="http://www.ilfordphoto.com/home.asp">Ilford site</a> for lots of clear, concise tutorials in PDF format. Good place to start for beginner and intermediate darkroom techniques.</p>

<p>Also check the online tutorials by <a href="http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/photo%20school%20index.html">Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz</a>. I've read Roger's posts online since the 1990s and a few of his books on b&w photography and darkroom - he has a knack for making the basic and intermediate techniques clear.</p>

<p>For traditional paper publications, there are thousands of copies of affordable used books on Amazon and elsewhere covering everything from beginner to advance darkroom techniques including master printing techniques.</p>

<p>If your goal for output is scanning to digital files (which can be printed to light sensitive RC or fiber paper by some specialty labs), you might consider sticking with films that lend themselves well to scanning. I like T-Max 100 for this. Very fine grain, scans very well. It's not the easiest film to master, tho'. Try it at box speed, ISO 100, in Microphen 1+1 (DDX might also work, but I haven't tried it), or at EI 64-80 in ID-11 or D-76 1+1. Delta 100 also has very fine grain for scanning and is a little less fussy than TMX - but I prefer the unique tonal quality of TMX. The ISO 400 varieties - Delta 400 and TMY - also scan well.</p>

<p>But if you don't mind a little grain (or a lot, in some cases), just about any b&w film and developing technique can be used even if the end goal is scanning rather than conventional enlarging.</p>

[mjferron]

<p>For under $150 (less probably) you could set yourself up with a changing bag, tank, reel, containers and chemicals. The changing bag will allow you to forget all about the concerns of making a room light tight. I'd like to say plastic tanks/reels are the easiest to learn on and with 35mm that's probably true but for 120 a Hewes stainless reel can't be beat for ease. Loading curly 120 on to a plastic reel can be frustrating at best. (thanks to the folks around here for that suggestion.)</p>

[sumo_kun]

<p>OK, the above posts do list everything you need but they also list a lot more too. Considering this is your first time and you have limited space, I would keep the kit small and inexpensive.<br>

Here's my bare basics kit. It will set you back very little money. The biggest expense is the reels and tank.</p>

<p>1 x 120 size stainless steel developing tank (get a quality one)<br>

2 x 35mm stainless reels for above (again, get good ones!)<br>

1 x 120 stainless reel (see above comments)<br>

1 x 220 stainless reel (same here, do you really use 220 that much??)<br>

1 x film retriever device (only needed if your camera sucks in the film leader after rewind)<br>

1 x packet of D76 or whatever film developer (liquid concentrates are easier to work with btw)<br>

1 x bottle of fixer (any fixer will do, rapid or not, hardener or non hardener, up to you)<br>

1 x bottle of "Photo-flo" or any rinse agent<br>

1 x thermometer (get one for photographic use because it will have the range you need)<br>

2 x 1 liter plastic bottles (to store fixer and unused developer)<br>

1 x 2 liter mixing jug (you only need to mix 1 liter at a time so a 2 liter jug gives you more stir room)<br>

1 x changing bag/tent (to get your film onto the reels and into the tank)<br>

2 x film clips (these are weighted clips to hang your film to dry, one at the top, one at the bottom for weight)</p>

<p>As you can see the kit is very simple.<br>

A 120 tank will let you develop 2 rolls of 35mm at a time or 1 roll of 120/220 at a time. If you only have 1 roll of 35mm, then stick an empty reel in to take up the space. You can get a seperate 35mm tank if you want but this way saves you money so buy the 35mm tank later. I hear Hewes brand reels are the best? Buy new or make sure the used ones you buy are not bent. Stainless is my preferred choice because it is easy to load and they are much easier to get clean. Plastic reels have a lot of nooks and crannies for residual chemicals to hide in. They both do the job though.<br>

To develop, first get the film onto the reel. For 35mm, get the film leader out of the can if it isn't already. Use a film retriever tool. Once its out, pull a length of about 10-15cms (about how much you pull out when you load the camera) of film out and cut the curvy end of the film leader off. Hook the film onto the reel's hooks and start feeding the film you pulled out onto the reel. Do not feed any more than that! This will simplify your job a lot later on. Put the reel with film carefully in the changing bag along with your tank and a pair of scissors. The scissors are very important! Close up the bag, stick your arms in and feed the rest of the film on the reel. If you didn't start the film on the reel before you put it in the bag, you would have to try and get the film hooked on the claws of the reel blind! I told you doing it earlier would save you a lot of work ;)<br>

To feed the film on you sort of squeeze the edges of the film gently so it bows in the middle. Then rotate the reel in your other hand slowly and it will go on the reel easily. Do this in the light first with a sacrificial roll of film to get a feel for it. Its a lot easier than it sounds, trust me. When you reach the end of the reel, you will need to cut the film to get rid of the canister. Thats where the scissors come in handy ;) So snip the film as close to the canister as possible and finish the spooling.<br>

The 120/220 process is similar to the 35mm one except you can't pre-feed the film on the reel. So dump everything in the bag and do it blind. The good news is that there are no claws, but a clip to hold the end of the film. Just line up the film in the clip and close it . The rest of the spooling is the same as for 35mm. In any case, I suggest you try 35mm first and get used to it before tackling 120.<br>

So now your film is on the reel, put it in the tank and put the lid on. Now you can take it out of the changing bag! The rest of the steps can be done in daylight. You can take the cap off the tank but not the lid!<br>

Next you want to do a pre-soak. Some people don't bother but I like to do it. Basically you just fill the tank with water (tap water is fine) and leave it to sit for 5 minutes. Its supposed to soak the film and get it ready for chemical absorbing or something like that.<br>

While its soaking make up the developer. Mix it like it says on the pack. Liquid concentrates are easier to use because they dissolve easily and you can alter the temperature easily with ice cubes and hot water where powdered developers will need to be mixed with hot water and cooled before you can use them.<br>

Anyway, once you have developer at 20 degs C or so, give the tank a shake and empty the water out. Then pour the developer in the tank until full, cap it and give it 5 or so slowish inversions (turn the tank upside down and then upright again in about 1 second) and start the timer. Develop by doing 5 inversions as before every 30 seconds until the time is up. To find the time for your film/developer, look here as a guide.<br>

<a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php">http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php</a><br>

Pour the remaining developer you mixed in a storage bottle and write when you mixed it on the bottle. You can use this later.<br>

Once development is over, uncap the tank, dump the developer (do not save it for re-use) and fill it with water. The water should be close to 20 degs C or so but it does not need to be exact. This is the stop bath. Some people go all fancy and use acids here but you do not need to. For prints yes, but not film. So, fill with water, shake, dump and fill again. Leave it to sit there while you mix the fixer.<br>

Mix the fixer as the package says but only 1 liter (so it fits in the bottle). This should be around 20 degs or so too but again its not critical. Dump the water from the tank and pour in the fixer. Invert the tank 5 times every minute for 10 minutes. This time is not critical either but 10 minutes is a good safe guide. Then dump the fixer into the storage bottle. Fixer can be reused for a while before it becomes depleted.<br>

Now you can open the lid of the tank and look at your negs! After you take a quick peek, respool the film on the reel give the film a thorough rinse with water in the tank. Leave it to sit there for about 30mins then change the water out, leave it for 30mins, change etc. Do this 4 or 5 times and the film will be washed. There are faster ways involving hypo clear but you can research that later.<br>

After washing, put a few drops of photo-flo in the tank and fill with water. Leave the film to sit in there for a minute or so and then take it out, shake the excess water off and then unspool and hang to dry. Do not wipe or rinse the film! Hanging to dry in a bathroom that has had a hot shower running for a little while is best because the humidity clears the air of dust.<br>

... And that's all there is to developing film! People get all paranoid with temperatures of all the solutions and using water baths to keep the solutions all at a stable temperature etc but its not necessary. The only temperature you need to watch is the developer, which should be around 20 degs C. Plus or minus 1 deg is fine. The water and fixer just need to be near 20degs C so they don't give the emulsion a thermal shock and crack it. As long as you don't use ice cold water or very warm water, you should be fine.<br>

Once you get to the really critical stages of your work where you need to have your film at a specific contrast or density or you want to do *really* exacting work, then you will need to watch temperature but as a beginner and someone trying to make good looking pictures, you don't need to be so picky :)<br>

Hope that helps!</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>For negative-only developing, I use:<br /> a stainless steel tank<br /> 120 reel and two 35mm reels<br /> two graduated cylinders to 500mL (one tends to stock; the other water to dilute)<br /> a bucket & lid for D76<br /> a bucket & lid for Fixer<br /> bucket for water rinse of negatives<br /> coat hanger and clips for drying the negs'<br /> a changing bag<br /> a $3 glass & mercury lab thermometer<br /> a pack of pH paper for when I get confused<br /> wristwatch with timer (I think Edward Weston used a sand-three-minute-glass egg timer)<br /> scissors (I use bandage scissors because of the blunt end)<br /> masking tape and permanent marker (marking stuff).</p>

<p>For more advanced items, I have other lab materials like a good balance and some trays and tongs for the developing. Yet, for basics, you won't need much. I usually stir the mixes with the tongs from printing for that stage. Notice, most everything you'd need is just a simple liquid container. When you start homebrewing, the balance will be real important.</p>

[kari v]

<blockquote>

<p>For 35mm, get the film leader out of the can if it isn't already. Use a film retriever tool.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You can also leave the leader out after shooting if your camera has the option or you feel confident enough doing it manually (just stop at the right time, pretty easy if you have a motorized camera, with manual cameras it depends on the make how well you can feel it). This makes loading 35mm on reels really simple as you can cut and feed the film a bit lights on and there's no need for a retriever. I either leave the leader out or open the canister with a bottle opener in the dark (a bit scary at first) but if you buy a retriever and like it then why not, perhaps I'm just too cheap to get one. ;)</p>

<p>I've always thought agitating 5s per every 30s a bit fiddly. 10s per 1min is more relaxed and works fine. Same goes for dev times. Near 10min is easier than near 5min, it's also way more consistent as little deviations don't matter as much. If your target is 10min then 9-11min can be ok but with 5min target 4-6min may give you very visible +/- 1 stops and you also risk uneven dev.<br>

I'm saying this because I have a friend who has developed film for a while now. He agitates rather forcefully 5/30 and goes for short dev times. His results tend to lack tonality and highlights blow easily, pretty inconsistent work. Perhaps you like fast paced work and can handle it, that's fine, but there is another way if you feel rushed.<br>

Fixing. Rather too much than too little. The film is not harmed by the extra time but you really won't like it when your fixing falls short.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>After washing, put a few drops of photo-flo in the tank and fill with water.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This really means drops (I use a small plastic syringe) and more like 2-4 than ten. You'll notice what I mean. ;)</p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Wow!<br>

So much help..... I can use all I can get for sure.<br>

Thanks alot I will be getting the items I need over the next couple weeks and keep everyone posted. <br>

And keep the advice/info coming . I am trying to take it all in.<br>

Thanks again</p>

[randy_johnson5]

<p>Travis,<br>

What you need to find is a Paterson System 4 Force Film Washer. It has a rubber fitting that goes over just about any faucet and a flexible tube with a tapered hard plastic fitting on the other end that fits into the hole in the top of the lid (closed) of the Paterson System 4 tank. (Congrats on finding one! I hope you got the little black plastic extension handle that fits into the top hole used for turning and agitating the film reels. If you didn't, just put on the tank lid and invert the tank once every 30 sec. during developing). Look on Ebay. I really don't know if Paterson tanks and accessories are available new.<br>

Now, if you just can't find it I would recommend a Zone VI film washer (also available on Ebay). These are really nice as you just take the film (keep on the reels) out of the Paterson tank and put them into the Zone VI film washer. Just set the Zone Vi washer in a sink and turn on the water into the Zone VI--no other tubes or connections. Wash for 10-15 min or so and then pour out the water. Pour in the Photo flo solution for 1 min or so and then you can take the film off the reels and squeegee and hang to dry. Pour the Photo flo back into the storage jug. If you want to go cheap. Just put the film reels into some container and let soak for a couple of minutes and then just dump the water and add new water and soak again. Do this several times and you should be o.k.<br>

The point about not being too fussy about all the other chemical temperatures is well taken. But the developer temp is CRITICAL. As the prior poster says, control it to ONE degree. Doing that manually is harder than it sounds. Just put your thermometer in the developer solution and watch over 5 minutes (stir a little). Get a good thermometer than can read in less than 1 degree ticks. If it's hot or cold in the room temp just pay attention to what's actually happening. I highly recommend a water bath for at least the developer to keep that temp controlled as best as you can. Any fairly deep plastic tub will work. Once the developer is warmed or cooled to the 68f (recommended) put the graduate containing the developer into a water bath of 68 degrees. At least you will start development at 68 degrees. This will help maintain the developer temp to give you consistent results. I just got used to doing this for all the chemicals but if your stop bath is a few degrees warmer, you are still fine. Actually, if the house water temperature is much warmer or colder than the developer temp, you might want to actually gradually warm or cool the other processing chemistry to gradually match the final washing water temp. Again, perhaps a little over kill, but it can only help you to do this and requires only a little more effort. I guess the key to what I am saying is that to develop a carefully controlled developing process for yourself to help you get consistent development. If you do, you can then change development in a controlled way for the results you are looking to achieve. I still recommend the Zone VI Workshop book (used) by Fred Picker. It covers film processing. There is even a better video and now DVD through Calumet on Zone VI Studios: Film and Technique, but they may be a bit advanced now. If you discover you love B/W processing you can move to video/dvd later. ---Randy</p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Is a safe light necessary ?</p>

[cj8281]

<p>A safe light will fog any pan film. Ortho film is different though. I use a changing bag to load my film onto the spools and this can be done in regular light. You can easily load your film at the kitchen table and then develop at the sink. <br>

I might add that if you use hc110 that you might get a small syringe. I use a 3cc syringe for measuring hc110. I mostly use D76 at 1:1. I use a $10 digital thermometer and measure the D76. If the D76 measures 66 deg then I add water that is 70 deg and it mixes up to 68deg. <br>

For tanks, I prefer Nikor tanks and reels. Sometimes hard to find and/or expensive. I also have a plastic tank that I use if I get an unruly stretch of film. I also use the lowly binder clip for hanging my negatives. Here is a <a href="00T7wW"> picture of what I use</a>. The University near me has a "yard sale" once a year and it is a nice place to pick up lots of stuff for processing and developing. You might see if there is a photography club that is nearby and they also might be able to help you find items that you seek.<br>

If you like videos,<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6P9bNcBE_Hc"> J Brunner </a>is funny to watch as well as informative.</p>

[saintelmo21]

<p>Travis, no safe light. You won't need that until you get a darkroom, if you get to that stage. Jump in to this feet first....you will make mistakes, but don't let that stop you. Get a cheap roll of 35mm film and practice loading your reels while you can see what you are doing, especially if you decide to use steel tanks and reels. Practice loading with that piece of film until you think you can do it blindfolded. Get a changing bag like Clay suggests. I started out (4 years ago) trying to hide in my closet. Take some advice and skip that stage, go straight to the changing bag! Shoot lots of different kinds of B&W film over the next few months, but use the same developer. I recommend D76 because it's easy to mix. Then, you can start to experiment with different developers. Get the basics down first. Over time you will become an expert just like some of these folks on here. Most important: HAVE FUN.</p>

[bernard_lazareff]

<p>For washing, I don't use my faucet adapter any more since several years. Hard to ensure acceptable temperature in winter unless you have a thermostatic faucet. Look up page 5 of:<br>

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006216115141521.pdf<br>

and an independent, in-depth assessment and test at:<br>

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/ilfwash.pdf<br>

Plus, it takes less time and conserves water.<br>

I second the recommendation of D76 by E.Short. Use it 1+1, and throw away after each use. Don't waste your time trying each and every "miracle" developer+film. Choose one combination and learn how <em>you </em>can get the best from it. Enjoy BW phtography!</p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Ok, I just moved into my new place and am ready to get the chemicals needed. <br>

I guess I am going to go with the D76 since that seems to be highly recommended.<br>

My question is can someone please give me a list of exactly what chemicals I will need to <br>

process my film? I know it is all explained in this post but there are so many different things mentioned that<br>

I have gotten overwhelmed. I would be greatly appreciative if someone could give me a list of what I will need for chemicals.<br>

I also do not have a film washer yet, but am looking to get one.I know I need the d76 but what else? Oh and is all the D76 in powder form or do they sell the gallon in liquid form?<br>

Thanks again</p>

 

[cj8281]

<p>You only need 2 chemicals really the stop bath is nice though. Developer and fixer. Photoflo and Hypo clear are also extras that are not necessary.<br /> All of the D76 that I am aware of is powder.<br /> I am currently using Kodak rapid fixer, I have used the Kodafix solution and I have some of Kodak's powder fixer. Some people like to use fixers from Ilford others like the Arista fixer. If you are all ready getting Kodak's D76 then why not Kodak's fixer. I like the liquid because you only have to mix what you need. I would recommend the Kodafix solution. You can also reuse your fixer for film for something like 9 or 10 film fixings. You can check you fixer by putting a piece of film in it and see how long it takes to clear. I toss mine when it takes more than 3 to 4 minutes to clear. I also keep track of the number of films I have put through the fix and then decide whether to keep or toss. You can wash your film right in your tank if you want to. What kind of tank did you get? If you got a Paterson then you can get a hose that fits the faucet and fits the center hole of your tank, set your temperature and wash. You don't need to have the water flow very high either just enough so it changes out every 5-6 minutes.<br>

Where are you getting your D76 from? You could probably get your fixer from them too. </p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>great, thanks. Anyone have any changing bag or tent for sale? </p>

[travis_mccormack]

<p>Does anyone know where to get a 120 reel for the patterson 4 system?</p>

[cj8281]

<p>Which tank in the Paterson 4 did you get? Is it the one that will take 2 35mm films or the small 35mm tank? The Paterson reel will open up and take 127 and 120 depending on which groove you lock it in. I have just looked at all of my plastic reels and they all operate the same way. You hold the reel in both hands, one hand on each outer ring or flange with the center perpendicular to the ground, twist your left hand so the top of the flange twists toward you and the right hand twists the right flange away from you. Another way to look at it, hold the reel in your left hand with the reel facing up with the core in the vertical position as it would sit on a table top. With your right hand twist the top in a clockwise direction. Some of the ones I have are really easy to split apart and one I have is extremely stiff. There is a catch that you need to turn it past and then the reel splits apart. There are 3 settings or sizes, 35mm is with the reel halves close together, 127 is the size in the middle, and 120/220 is the third size or the widest setting. Make sense? You can get a changing bag from Freestyle for<a href="00WfzL"> $22 plus shipping</a>. You can find them on eBay too. The tents are nicer because there is more air and you are less likely to sweat in it and it makes it a lot easier to do what you need to. They are<a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/25001-Photoflex-Changing-Room"> more money though</a>. </p>