Acros or TMX100 for N+! & N+2?

[ben_crabtree]

I'm trying to learn and put into practice at least some elements of

the zone system with my Hasselblad. I want to maintain maximum

sharpness, but wouldn't want to end up with seriously elevated grain

as a result of extended negative development. I've read that TMax

100 is quite sensitive to development; does this mean that it

responds to N+1 and N+2 development poorly, or well? Would I have

better results with Acros?

 

My initial intention is to use X-tol 1:1. Any other preferences?

[m0002a]

TMAX 100 is fairly sensitive to over and under development, so if you are accurate and consistent in your processing methods, N plus or minus should be easy with this film. This comment pertains to the old version which will soon (if not already) be replaced on retailer shelves. Don't know about the new version.

 

XTOL 1:1 is a good combination, however, Kodak says that an unusually high number of XTOL failures occurred with this film, so be forewarned. XTOL 1:3 would give better sharpness, but still with fairly fine grain.

[chris_todd]

TMX 100 is great for plus 2. I use it with HC-110 mixed at 11:1 from the stock solution. For 120 I would use about 12 minutes and expose it at 50.

[chris_waller]

TMX responds well to changes in development but precision is the key. Temperature, time and agitation must be rigorously controlled. I've no experience of N+ development since I always seem to need N-, but I find that 30 seconds reduction from an N time of 7 minutes gives noticeable changes in highlights such as subtle cloud tones.

[graphicjoe]

Note that Kodak recommends no change in development if Tmax 100 is exposed +/- one stop. Take this into account when using this film.

 

Also remember that the zone system was developed in the days of sheet film when each exposure could be processed differently. Roll film makes things a lot different. I don�t know how you work, but I have never found a way to use the system with roll film. I just try to get the exposure right for every frame. I�m curious as to how you plan to implement the zone system using roll film.

Joe Stephenson

[m0002a]

Plus or minus development in the Zone System is not intended to compensate for under/over exposure (either intended or unintended). Changes in development time cause different levels of contrast in the negative. The longer the development (or more agitation, higher temps, etc.) the more contrast in the negative, and vise versa. This is intended to compensate for the inherent contrast of the scene being photographed, and the contrast that is desired by the photographer in the final print.

 

There are other aspects of the Zone System that do deal with exposure that are applicable to roll film. However, if the various images on the same roll of film have large differences in scene or desired contrast, then plus or minus development is difficult, especially with 36 exposures per roll. Not quite so difficult with 6x7 format which has 10 exposures per roll.

[al_kaplan1]

Or you can use more than one film magazine or camera body for film destined for + or - development.

[ted_kaufman]

When using roll film, I seldom develop for plus exposures, unless the entire roll has been shot under the same light conditions. It's far move useful when using sheet film, however. I find that most needs of N+1 or N+2 can be served with increasing contrast in printing, or by selenium toning the negatives.

 

Incidentally, although it is a bit more work, selenium toning is a fantastic way to increase negative contrast without increasing grain or sacrificing contrast. It's almost like magic! Keep in mind, however, the effect cannot be reversed, so you are better off trying to print the negative first to see if you really must increase contrast on the negative.

 

If you are really sure a scene needs N+ development, I have found that staining developers work great for this purpose. I typically double the developer concentration and use my normal development times. This does two things: one, it increases the negative density; two, it increases the stain, which has the effect of increasing neg. contrast. The reason I like staining developers is you can achieve more effective contrast (through the combined effects of density and stain) while minimizing the effects of additional developing with the attendant loss of sharpness and increased grain.