Need Help Choosing My First FD Camera

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p>Long time reader, first time poster. I've recently been trying to get into photography and about 4 months ago I got my first DSLR. I chose the Pentax K-x as I also inherited my Dad's broken Chinon CG-1 and a few lenses and accessories. I also decided to purchase a Falcon 85mm f1.4 lens to go with the package and have been relatively happy with it. Recently though, I took it to a wedding as an assistant and when I looked back at my shots, there were far too many out of focus for my liking. This is because all my lenses are manual focus and I'm quite new to focussing on a digital camera - there don't seem to be many focus aids besides the green light. Having grown up with my Dad's Chinon (before I broke it), I really miss the split image focussing and thus I'm very tempted indeed to return to the world of film.</p>

<p>Another factor in my decision is the price of the lenses, especially the "defunct" FD mount lenses, which just seem to be plummeting, and the final nail in my digital coffin is that I can't afford full frame and I really want to shoot fast and wide. All of these factors have led me to FD cameras and I've been researching them for the past week or so. I've also bought myself a Pentax ME Super to play with and get me used to film again (it's amazing how much you forget about when you've been using digital for the last decade or so).</p>

<p>Right, enough of the back story, here's my main problem. After going back and forth between many different models of FD to have as my main shooter, I'm still unable to make a decision and I'm hoping that the great people and their knowledge here at photo.net will be able to help.</p>

<p>My ideal camera would have the following features:</p>

<ul>

<li> 1. Weatherproofing</li>

<li> 2. Continuous shooting (maybe around 2fps)</li>

<li> 3. Split Image Focussing</li>

<li> 4. AE Lock</li>

<li> 5. Centred Metering</li>

</ul>

<p>I may add to that list as I do more research, but I'm pretty sure that's what I want at the minute. My budget is around £700 and that includes the price of my main lens (24mm f1.4l) that I desire. If anyone knows a wider, faster lens in any other format that I could afford (I can't afford Leica ;)) then I'm all ears too. Also, are the FD lenses weatherproof in general, I'm particularly interested in the aspherical "L" lenses.</p>

<p>Finally, regarding the AE Lock, this is a recent addition to the list after getting my ME Super as I find the digital method of inputting the shutter speed pretty much unusable. I guess simple analogue shutter speed dial could work, but I don't want to have to move my eyes from the viewfinder when framing a shot.</p>

<p>I hope all this makes sense and I don't just sound like a useless novice. I've tried to do my research before posting this question, but I am still just getting used to the SLR world, so please any help at all from anyone would be greatly appreciated :)</p>

<p>Paul.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Take a look at the Canon T90, a truly superb FD camera. Here's a link to the instruction manual. It is my favorite of the FD line and the only one I chose to keep. http://www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canon_t90-1.pdf</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I think your problems with digital are likely to be repeated in other ways with film. What you need to do is to <strong><em>learn photography</em></strong>, not be switching cameras as the drop of a "poor focus" or whatever. Especially you need to buy some AF Pentax lenses or AF lenses in the mount.</p>

<p>That being said, if you must buy an FD camera, my personal recommendation is one of the last of the breed, the very nice AE1-Program. A T90 might be better (it is essentially a manual focus EOS camera with a FD mount), but it is considerably rarer and usually much more expensive.</p>

<p>Any old camera will likely require minor service/repairs. Use Google™ for such things as "mirror squeak", "light seal replacements", and so forth.</p>

[dave_s]

<p>I would have said T70, but that's personal opinion. T90s are happier if they're in more or less continuous use, and I don't shoot 35mm continuously. YMMV. The T70 is a fairly robust camera with the features you need. An awful lot of them were sold in the1980s, so they are more or less given away now-- in N. America, maybe $50 for a good one with little use.</p>

<p>Not my business (sorry), but I would consider a 24/2.0 instead of a 24/1.4L, unless you really need the extra stop. Should be able to get a T70 with 24/2.0 for £200, even at obscene UK prices. Save the other 500 for film, processing, travel, and vice.</p>

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Hi guys, thanks for the responses so far. I have looked at both the T90 and the T70, both look very nice cameras. I was slightly put off by the amount of automatic features initially and their digital LCD operations, but if they're the best for my criteria, then I'll give them another look. My local camera shop actually has the T70 w/ 50mm f1.8 in at the moment for £50, and I had a quick play, though I was slightly overwhelmed by the amount of modes and the controls, but I'm sure it wouldn't take much time to get used to.</p>

<p>To JDM first of all, I'm very aware that I need to get better at the art of photography itself, and I suppose the catalyst to change equipment so early was as much my lust for the 24mm f1.4l as well as the focussing systems. I've never really enjoyed AF, but my experience with it isn't yet enough to fully rule it out, I just feel quite in control enough and using it with my friend's 20D w/ 70-200 lens, it was constantly locking up and refusing to fire the shutter - it really infuriated me. Also, there's no way I could afford a 24mm f1.4 in AF, maybe a Sigma 20mm/24mm f1.8, which is something I've considered. Though I'm still edging towards MF.</p>

<p>Finally Dave, thank you for the advice, and I know about the 24/2.0 as the cheaper option, but I love shooting wide open and fast and despise changing lenses, the 24/1.4l seems like a really good "one lens" solution for how I want to shoot - perhaps I'm just a bit strange though! lol</p>

<p>Keep the advice coming though - I really want to be convinced at one particular camera by the end of this thread - hopefully!</p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>The T90 was known as "The Tank" in pro circles for good reason. Very rugged. Apparently it is sealed pretty well too. A couple of weeks ago I was shooting at the zoo in heavy rain and the camera got soaked. I used my finger like a windshield wiper to get water off the viewfinder. The camera never missed a frame. </p>

[michaelchristensen]

<p>Let's see ... I have 2 F1N's, 1-F1 (original edition-old), 2-AE1 programs, 1-AE1, and a T90, a modest collection of FD glass. I began shooting weddings with the F1N's and a Metz flash ... transitioned to Nikon film and autofocus lenses, then to Nikon digital ... and a few other camera platforms just to understand what I thought I was missing; have some medium format and rangefinders too.</p>

<p>I've been very satisfied with every camera used .. it was all about convenience, ease of operation, and timing ... making what you have work for you rather than pressing too many buttons, reading and interpreting too much from the led indicators and navigating the menu systems. Therefore, I've claimed stunning pictures with every camera that has fallen into my hands .. one way or another .. as long as the box worked as manufactured .. it was a capable tool only limited by my understanding of how to employ it. At first, I liked the complicated readouts in digital and LEDs that appeared in my viewfinder at the touch of a button .. but I also came to dislike the clutter and annoying interference with picture composition/framing .. that detracted me from my subject .. soon I began ignoring all that "data" and the faster I shot a scene .. be it a wedding or event .. the less important those LED readout became .. but I could not turn them off .. I learned that I only needed to know so much information and then tell my camera how I wanted it to focus and meter and expose the shot .. and then I moved on to the important things like focus to emphasize the subject to background, and composition .. sometimes less automation/technology is a good thing .. you have to decide of course.</p>

<p>Ok, my favorite FD camera is the Canon New F1 ... a solid well-designed camera .. it is really a pleasure to shoot, feels substantial in the hand for steady shots, top-of-the line weather sealing (although, remember that it is now old and weather-seals don't last forever) but I still protect it when shooting in the rain. I like the match-needle meter (simple and intuitive to use) .. and, I like manual focus on an older cameras so much better than anything that has "become modern" .. nice big rings on FD lenses to get a good grip .. no mushy, plastic feel here .. no jerky over-sensitive focus issues .. hard to explain but auto-focus lenses are optimized to perform autofocus, not manual focus (you either like them or you don't) .. and you will find the need for manual focus no matter how sophisticated your camera system becomes.</p>

<p>I have a motor drive on one of New F1's which is heavy-duty; built to "pull a train" of film .. again, quality and reliability were not compromised. A second choice in the FD line would be the T90 .. well built, perhaps a better meter than the F1N .. too close to call .. but also a more complicated camera in terms of flash use. I do like the Canon T90 but feel it is overkill for features and less reliable due to all those electronic features (just my personal and unscientific opinion) .. it too is a great camera that was priced too high when I first became interested in photography ... I cut my teeth on an AE1 Program .. a great entry-level camera that does it all very well.</p>

<p>The choice for me is simple .. when I have time for slow, methodical photography and want to work on my pictures .. a Canon F1 "New" works great for film; for events, the deal-breaker is autofocus simply because the subject is moving fast and not posed .. then I'm inclined to use digital and look for that 1-in-5 or 10 shots that I would have shot using only film.</p>

<p>I transitioned to Nikon as more wedding/events seemed to call me by name .. and I functioned at a faster pace .. finding autofocus to help .. yes it is good techology .. but my Canon FD gear still takes outstanding pictures .. just at a slower pace .. and sometimes, I really like "slow" photographing ..</p>

<p>My personal opinion .. having used more cameras than I can remember .. is simply understanding how any camera works its' magic .. knowing how that meter reads the light and allowing me to do the rest. With the Canon New F1 .. I don't need anything but a center-weighted meter .. I can work menu-free with the simple controls of the camera .. which is about as good as it gets. It is a rugged camera, well-built, and intuitive to use (how in the world did sports photographers and journalists work without digital and autofocus cameras??? well, I tend to think they relied on other skills now long lost in the present generations of photo enthusiasts and professional photographers) .. anyway, .. I really enjoy shooting the Canon New F1 .... a beautiful example of quality of engineering and design.</p>

[alan_swartz]

<p>Hi Paul,</p>

<p>Questions such as yours always generate a lot of prose in response. Let me try to offer a concise response point by point. First, the hardware features, limited to later FD cameras because of AE:</p>

 

<ul>

<li><em>1. Weatherproofing<br /></em>The F-1 is the only body advertised to be water resistant, and you'd go with the "New F-1" to get AE. I agree with Louis that the T90 does well in this respect, though it does not actually have any seals like an EOS professional model. I'm not aware of seals in any FD lens.</li>

<li>2<em>. Continuous shooting (maybe around 2fps)<br /></em>Add either the power winder or motor drive to the F-1N. (This is necessary to get shutter-priority AE with this camera anyway.) The drive is integral to the T90 and T70. AE-1 Program and A-1 can take a winder or a motor drive. </li>

<li>3. <em>Split Image Focussing<br /></em>Nearly any FD body and all the later ones. The standard screen was the "E," which has a split, a microprism, and a matte field. F-1's and T90 have interchangeable screens, as does the AE-1 Program. A-1 screens can be changed but not in the field. There are also split-only screens and microprism-only screens.</li>

<li>4. <em>AE Lock<br /></em>Not to be had on the F-1N. T90 has it in partial-area and spot metering modes, T70 in partial area mode. AE-1 Program and A-1 have an AE lock button. </li>

<li>5. <em>Centred Metering<br /></em>F-1N with the appropriate focusing screen. T90 and T70 by switch selection. Not available on any A-series camera. </li>

</ul>

<p>In summary:</p>

<ul>

<li>The F-1N with winder does everything you want except AE lock, in a rugged, heavy package that will last another 50 years with minimal service. It is the easiest FD body to use manually; it's a manual camera to which AE features were added. To me, that compensates for the lack of AE lock.</li>

<li>The T90 will do everything you want except that its weather resistance isn't a quantified factor. T90s also suffer from mirror and shutter release magnet ills, and I see more and more of them up for sale in need of repair. It's still my favorite FD body and it does tend to remain reliable if used consistently. Manual exposure is more awkward; it is an automatic camera with manual override, which is a different philosophy.</li>

<li>The T70 fits your needs except for unknown weather resistance, and can be had for almost nothing. Motor is built in and the camera is lightweight. I bought a perfect example a few weeks ago for $20 US. Also a little awkward in manual mode.</li>

<li>The AE-1 Program and A-1 lack selective area metering and weatherproofing. Also a little awkward in manual mode.</li>

<li>As a point of reference, the F-1 and T90 were professional models, the others all consumer models.</li>

</ul>

<p>One last thing...all of the winders and drives from this era are noisy. If you need to shoot in quiet situations, you can turn off the F-1 drive, but there's nothing you can do to quiet the T-series bodies.</p>

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Wow Michael, I have to say that that was a very comprehensive reply and very enjoyable to read too. The more I read, the more I'm beginning to realise that AF might in fact be better for professional work - I just don't know - I'm also enjoying reading through the "Autofocus craze?" thread elsewhere on these forums. All my technical research has led me to FD and it's easy entry level prices. I can get a dream lens that's MF for a fifth of the price of its AF brethren.</p>

<p>But should I even be looking at manual focus? I really think opinion is split on this subject. I know film fans and Leica shooters will almost certainly say yes, but in professional (in my case I'm wanting to be a wedding photographer in the long run) use, I'm starting to feel worried that I'd miss focus on those candid "spur of the moment" shots, although I'm pretty sure that the traditional "set-up" shots would be easier, and more often than not, better even in manual focus. Could my budget-pro setup of a, let's say, New F1 w/ 24mm f1.4l be used consistently as a pro wedding tool to get in focus shots? That's what I really need to find out - am I even skilled enough to pull this off, I'm not sure. But anyway, I'm starting to think out loud in this thread now!</p>

<p>Anyway, I think New F1 definitely has to be added to my shortlist from Michael's glowing praise of it from the previous post. So, now I have New F1, T90, T70, AE1P and so many more decisions to make! lol</p>

<p>This is all keeping me thinking, as is reading more of the threads on these forums in greater detail, I've got a feeling registering on these forums is going to eat up a lot more of my spare time! I'm not complaining though! :)</p>

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Ah another post whilst I was writing, I certainly wasn't ignoring your post there Alan, in fact I love it - pretty much exactly what I wanted, a list of points and words about the weatherproofing (something I've struggled to find). It's also made me realise that I need to express how I envisage shooting with this equipment.</p>

<p>I may well show my naivety with this, but here is how I'd hope to shoot. I want to frame my subject with my eye to the viewfinder (preferably throughout), I'd like to be able to focus (very accurately) on the subject and be able to have very little DOF (lots of isolation). I'll just clarify another reason that I was attracted to manual focus, the ability to focus of the main subject then be able to move them to the outside of the frame easily, should I choose to do so. I hope that makes sense. Onwards, after focussing I'd like to be able to read a light meter reading for my in focus subject (and not the rest of the scene), or basically to be able to point my camera at an object within the frame and work out what the correct shutter speed should be to light that object, then I want to be able to lock that shutter speed, and shoot - and if it's a particularly important event such as the kiss at a wedding ceremony, then I'd like to have the ability to take several shots in succession quickly.</p>

<p>That's it - I think that all makes sense, and I know that all sounds quite simplistic, but the important part of this is to compress this process into the smallest amount of time - just a few seconds. I think focussing is the longest part of this process, hence why an aid like split image may be very useful and I appreciate that AF may be an even better option. The shutter speed selection is also very important and I would imagine that either aperture priority (I'm not interested in shutter priority) with a AE Lock button, or simply a meter in the viewfinder with a dial, would be the fastest way to do this - though my lack of experience leaves me pondering as to the best option with this.</p>

<p>Once again, thank you for the replies and keep them coming! :)</p>

[bsharpe411]

<p>Paul...there's no Canon rule that says you can't have more than one type of FD body :-)</p>

<p>I have a T-90, F-1N, and A-1...along with a purely mechanical original F-1 and Ftb-n. I choose the body I anticipate needing for a given situation...and usually take along choice #2 as a backup. I've been fortunate in finding bodies in good shape at a reasonable price. I've also had several CLA's done on them for about $120 a pop.</p>

[ridinhome]

<p>Paul, you really can't go wrong with that list of cameras, they're all excellent. A T90 might bridge the gap between digital and film most easily since as JDM noted above it's essentially an EOS with manual focus. However its nowhere near as rugged as an F1 (original or New), and if not used regularly the shutter magnets develop a problem which is difficult to fix (one of the reasons a T90 is so cheap these days). So if you are looking for a camera which will last for 10+ years, the T90 is not it.<br>

I have a T90, an A1, an EOS 5D, a 350D, a Pentax Spotmatic and a Pentax ZX-7. The T90 is by far my favorite camera to use - I pick it up and it just fits in my hand like it was designed to do so. It's not a quiet camera, but it makes a lovely sound.<br>

Last comment - once you make your choice, please come back and post some pics! We have a regular picture of the month thread which is tons of fun.<br>

Happy shooting!</p>

[JDMvW]

<blockquote>

<p>a T90 is so cheap these days</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I guess it all depends on what you call cheap. An early EOS camera like the "professional" model 620 camera will sell for not much over US $30 in good working condition and it is perfectly capable for manual focusing lenses, either EF lenses with the AF turned off, or good old Nikkor and Zeiss lenses with inexpensive adapters and using stop-down metering (<strong>focusing</strong> wide open, of course). Just because a camera (like your Pentax even) <em>has</em> automatic everything, doesn't mean you <em>are forced to use it</em>, you know.</p>

<p>The realized prices I see for a T90 on eBay just now are mostly just under $200. An AE-1 Program usually goes from $70 to $150, usually with a lens or two.</p>

[ridinhome]

<p>JDM - fair point. What I meant to say was that the T90 is good value for money these days. You get a heck of a lot of camera for not a lot of money. </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I'm still looking for a T90 at the right price myself as a matter of fact. It's a necessary precursor to my nearly valueless collection of early EOS cameras. ;)</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>Paul, I won't reiterate what Michael, Alan, and the others have said so well, but I'd just like to recommend either the New F-1 or T90 (or, better still, both!). I have the original F-1, later F-1, New F-1, FTb-N, EF, AE-1, A-1, and T90, and it's those two that I use by far the most. The original (or later) F-1 is the body to get if you want a manual, fully mechanical (apart from the meter) body, but since you want automatic exposure and selectable metering modes, either the F-1N or the T90 is the FD body for you.</p>

[ridinhome]

<p>FWIW, Paul, the T90 does NOT offer two features which may or may not be important to you. First, the T90's viewfinder is not fully-coupled in manual mode with the aperture setting on the lens. Second, the T90 does not offer mirror lock up.<br>

Also, if you do decide to get a T90 you might want to think about adding a Speedlite 300TL to your kit if you would like to take advantage of the T90's TTL Flash metering capabilities.</p>

[alan_swartz]

<p>Paul, I'm glad we hit some pay dirt above.</p>

<p>You then asked, <em>"Could my budget-pro setup of a, let's say, New F1 w/ 24mm f1.4l be used consistently as a pro wedding tool to get in focus shots?" </em>Well, for a number of years from 1981 it was! Conservative pros were still shooting it after EOS came out. And it was no budget kit in its day. Obsolesence is in the eye of the beholder, in my opinion. We could name any number of machines that still do a perfectly good job. I admit that I am attracted to older things that work well. Certainly there have been improvements and advances, but you'll have to weigh them in your own context. I personally find a lot of engineering and development to be mere gadgetry these days. Does an EOS body offer functional abilities that you truly need?</p>

<p>Will you miss focus more often with an F-1 than with an EOS body? Depends on your eyesight, skill, practice, lens speed, choice of focusing screen, and the light level. I've been happy with FD stuff all along. A few months ago I bought my first EOS 3 and a relatively slow run-of-the-mill EF zoom lens. I hoped it would really help me out in difficult focusing situations. I haven't used it much, but thus far it isn't as fast or accurate as I wish. For <em>almost </em>every situation in which I've used it, my manual focusing with the T90 was as good. Not every single time, but almost. Value that as you please, because it's just my personal experience. I do like the bright laser matte screens of the New F-1. They are perhaps my favorite focusing tools in the whole FD line.</p>

<p>I can say that the EOS 3 felt comfortable immediately, having used a T90 for quite a while. In reverse, that says that the T90 is not a relic in today's world.</p>

<p>If I were going to shoot weddings with a T90, I would seek two low-mileage bodies and have them both completely serviced up front by the best guy in the country. I would never, ever arrive at a gig without the backup body preloaded with film. Mine have been reliable thus far, but the issues do exist. I would also send along any FD lens I bought, since many diaphragms are oil soaked and sticky, and glass is hazy in many lenses now. The last thing I would want is an angry mother-of-the-bride because the diaphragm stuck wide open and ruined the whole show.</p>

<p>Kayam mentioned the 300TL flash capabilities. This is the only unit in the entire FD line that begins to approach the capabilities of today's flashes. The others (from Canon) stop at simple thyristor exposure control with an external sensor. Many a wedding was shot with an old 577G or 533G "potato masher," putting out a lot of light, but if you can get by with the 300TL's output, it has some neat features.</p>

<p>Rambling now, I'm thinking about the 24mm as a wedding lens. I don't shoot weddings, never have, but to me that seems a little wide for a lot of the work. Groups, sure, but not a flattering lens for facials of the bride, I think. You guys correct me if I'm wrong there. I can say that I have more trouble judging the split or microprism with a lens that wide. I actually prefer an A screen in that case, which has a nice big solid microprism disc, especially in low light. One advantage to the 24mm, used with substantial flash, is that its considerable depth of field at small apertures will cover a lot of slight focusing errors, provided the shooting distance isn't too close.</p>

<p>There's a prevailing wind on the forum that the 24/1.4L is not as good (at least wide open) as the 24/2.0. I have no laboratory answer for that, but I used to shoot occasional group portraits. I first used the 24/2.0 but had some pretty hazy faces at the edges and corners, I think from spherical aberration. I sought out a 24/1.4L to try, and it performed much better in that respect.</p>

<p>One thing you can bet on: if you show up as a professional photographer with a vintage system, people are going to talk!</p>

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Hi guys, just wanted to quickly post and to say thank you for all your contributions, especially Alan. I'm still not sure what I'm leaning towards, truth be told. If anything it makes me think more about AF with a wide angle and then split image MF with a zoom. I'm currently shooting my 85mm f1.4 with my Pentax ME Super and the split image does make a huge difference when I have time to compose a shot, and makes an even bigger difference when I add my 2x tele-converter into the mix (170mm f2.8 for £200 isn't too shabby imo), but doesn't seem to make a huge impact with wide angle lenses, which for some reason I just didn't think about before.</p>

<p>Going off topic a little bit, does anyone know whether the Sigma 20mm/24mm f1.8 lenses will work with old film cameras with AF. One that popped up during my research, but I dismissed a little early due to loving the look of the Canon FD range, was a Minolta Dynax 9 and one of the aforementioned Sigma lenses, but I'm not sure if these digital designed lenses would even work. Maybe that's a question for a different topic though!</p>

<p>Anyway, for now I shall continue to practice with both my digital and my film Pentaxs and see how it feels :)</p>

[james_kennedy9]

<p>JDM,<br>

The T90 is a fairly complex camera, and not all vendors go through all the hoops to test all the options, not even KEH, but KEH is ethical and will negotiate with you. I don't think I would buy a T90 if I didn't have the option of returning it. The T90 also has a fairly complex flash that is quite effective. I think the MIR web site has good description of the camera. You will need and want a manual for the camera and I think they are available online. The T90 has some inherent problems that often revolve around exercising the shutter fairly often, What I am trying to say is that the T90 doesn't like being stored away for lengthy periods.</p>

[barryreid]

<p>The FD system is great but you would have to duplicate your lenses across the two systems. I can't help but think it would be better to get a Pentax film body that most closely matches the spec. As far as I can see the, rock solid, Pentax LX can be configured to answer all your criteria except exposure lock...<br>

1. Weatherproofing - YES<br>

2. Continuous shooting (maybe around 2fps) - YES, choice of Winder or Motor drive<br>

3. Split Image Focussing - YES (Interchangeable)<br>

4. AE Lock - No<br>

5. Centred Metering - YES</p>

<p>It also offers OTF TTL flash, interchangeable finders and is compatible with the lenses you already have. Also if you wnat a bare bones mechanical, manual body IMO the MX is about a good as it gets.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>james, Thanks for the information, but I'm a little curious about what I posted that led you to so respond?<br>

In any case, Barry has a major point. If you are going to stay with Pentax, it makes a lot of sense to use old K-mount Pentax bodies as well. I guess the specificity of the OP's request here for info on FD cameras led many of us to overlook that advice (besides it's the FD forum anyhow).</p>

[paul_butterworth1]

<p>Well, I was planning to sell my setup for the Canon FD system - mainly because of the better quality and better prices, not to mention the crazy high speed lenses. To answer Alan again about the wedding pictures, for close ups I was intending to use the Canon FD 85/1.2 which looks like an amazing lens. I'm currently considering the F-1n as the best option mainly for the weatherproofing. Does anyone know if it's still weather resistant when used with the accessories, primarily the Motor Drive?</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>I use a pair of the New F1s (third model without the MLU and timer lever on the front) and have never had any real issues with them. Generally one has the winder on and the other the motor drive. I have used them in the raid and extreme cold and snow (-45C!!) without issue for over 25 years. Over that time I had one widner fail but I do not think it was weather related. I recall the first test of the F1 by Popular Photography (I think) had them take it in the shower (out oif the main water stream) for over 25 mins!.</p>

<p>You will love the 85 F1.2 I have two of these lenses and it is still the best FD lens I have owned.</p>

[barryreid]

<p>OK, if came down to the 85/1.2L being decisive then I would choose the T90. The ability to change between average, partial and multi-spot metereing and the ability to shift the shutter/aperture combinations in program mode make it a very fast camera to use in changable light situations. Also, IMO, the TTL flash facility will also be useful</p>

<p>Whichever you go for (the New F-1 with the AE head and winder is a great camera too, I just feel the T90 is more flexible) buy two of them. For the T90 in particular, you must have a back up body for shooting weddings.</p>