Provia 100F - what to expect?

[RaymondC]

<p>I been using my slide film in my freezer this year and I love the stuff, on the lightbox they are unique, they just don't scan that great, I have seen top images on the net but again, they don't look as a good as a backlighted slide - lol. </p>

<p>I tried Velvia 50 RVP - really like it, I could think that can be my standard film travelling. I tried Kodak Elite Chrome 100 in the past and didn't like it nor Ektachrome 200 - they were just a bit too conservative and ordinary and dull. Ekta 200 has a bit more grain than I preferred on color slide. </p>

<p>I have Provia 100F loaded now in my Nikon FM2N - 35mm format. Would I be happy with that? I shoot mainly landscapes and cityscapes and v occasionally some skin tones. </p>

<p>Cheers.</p>

[dangoldman]

<p>a majority of the images taken in <a href="#" target="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=831163">this folder</a> were taken with provia 100F, the rest are digital. Admittingly, i did not do a great job editing all of those photos... but you can see the saturation characteristics etc of the film. I like it a lot, and now that kodachrome is going, its one of my primary films along with velvia 50</p>

[asimrazakhan]

<p>I have experience with Velvia 50, Velvia 100 (not 100F), and Provia 100F. This is how I would describe the differences:</p>

<p>Velvia 50 is the most saturated. Skin tones are fine as long as you don't shoot in warm light. The second you use warm light (morning or dusk), skin tones become very red... especially with tanned or brown skin. Therefore its a great film to use for people in mid-day with overcast situations. If you use this film at any time of the day when there is strong direct light (not overcast), your shadows will become very dark. People shots with Velvia 50 in direct sunlight produce the racoon look.... shadows become black. Non-animate objects look great with this film anytime of the day... but you still have to be careful about the harshness of shadows. Another thing to note about this film producing very red skin tones is the location and time you are shooting. If there is a lot of pollution or if you are at very high altitudes and are shooting at dawn or dusk, this can pronounce the red effect so much that brown skin starts looking rusty brick red.</p>

<p>Velvia 100 is similar to Velvia 50 except that it is a bit warmer and handles harsh light better... though blacks are better in Velvia 50. Also, you will often notice that grey colors as well as dull colored objects (rocks, pavement, buildings) tend to have a magenta cast with this film. Reds are very pronounced. But all in all it seems to be like Velvia 50 with the use of an 81A warming filter. Skin tones are more natural with this film than with Velvia 50... even in warm light. This film falls between the qualities of Velvia 50 and Provia 100F. Its not too saturated and its not too cool.</p>

<p>Provia 100F often times produces results like that of Velvia 50 shot in overcast mid-day light. You will not have high saturation and in fact will often feel that the images are on the cool side. They may even look dull when compared to Velvia images. When shooting in mid-day overcast light you may even find your images to be too cool due to a hint of cyan... especially after your eyes have adjusted to the saturated colors of Velvia. This film is much more merciful in harsh lighting conditions and often produces great colors that are similar to the Velvias. Often times you will find bright colors from this film to look saturated while the dull colors remain dull... similar to Velvia 50 and not like Velvia 100 (it has an all-round warm tone). This pronounces the contrast and often times makes the image 'pop'. It makes it look like you shot on a clear day just after the rain cleaned up everything. When using Provia 100F, it's usually a good idea to place an 81A filter on your lens if shooting in mid-day light (overcast or not). This is the most natural of the three films.</p>

<p>I also shoot a lot of travel photography using these films. For traveling I can't settle on just one of these films for all situations... and usually carry all three. If I HAD to choose one, I would go with Velvia 100 for its faster speed, more latitude in harsh lighting conditions, and more acceptable skin tones (compared to Velvia 50). Also, for its all-round warm tones no matter how the lighting situation (compared to Provia 100F).</p>

<p>Keep in mind that Velvia 100 comes inbetween Velvia 50 and Provia 100F in most situations. But if you were to add Astia 100 to this list, then Provia 100F would be the middle-ground film. Astia produces truly natural/real colors... perfect for portraits and weddings. It's at the polar opposite of Velvia 50 and 100. Though a very natural film with great latitude, colors look dull when compared to any of the other films... especially the Velvias. This would not be my choice for travel photography. The other three would be great travel films.</p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p> </p>

[leicaglow]

<p>I use Provia 100F almost exclusively now, but I think it is very similar to Ektachrome 100. I find it can handle both bright, contrasty colored scenes, and does a nice job on muted colors. It is really in the sweet zone of the look I like for my color images. If I want dripping, bright colors, then I'll shoot with a Canon digital, but I think the look of Provia is bright and modern looking, without being over the top.</p>

[dangoldman]

<p>could someone post a sample of skin tones/people with velvia 100 and provia 100f?</p>

[willscarlett]

<p>I have skintones with Velvia 50 if that'd help. And about Provia 100, I too find that it's somewhat blue looking.</p>

[jimitav]

<p>I also use Velvia 100, 50 and Provia 100F. I must say, that for general type of photography, I always prefer the Provia. It is just wonderful! Medium contrast that suits every occasion and punchy (but not saturated) colors! Velvia 50 is also a must for EVERYTHING except for skin tones.<br>

On the other hand, I am very disappointed with Velvia 100. I hate the magenta cast it produces in the shadows an many times on neutral colors. I event tried shooting it at 80 ISO, but still I don't like it. I am shooting my last rolls and I won't use it anymore.<br>

Also, try shooting Velvia 50 at 40 ISO. In the old days, it was a matter of preference, but now if you are scanning your slides at home, I think Velvia must always be overexposed by a third.</p>

[jimitav]

<p>Example with Provia 100:</p>

<p>http://www.tavlikos.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=detail&id=3417&Itemid=3</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>The character of Provia 100F changes between bright sunlight and shady or cloudy conditions. In bright conditions it is a well saturated film , maybe not quite as saturated as Velvia 50 and without the risk to skin tones, but nevertheless part of the same family and certainly not dull or recessive. In sun I regard it as a substitute for Velvia 50 that I'm happy to use. <br>

In medium and dense shade , or in overcast conditions its a different story. There's a tendency to undercall colour and saturation and a tendency to bluish shadows that may well need a warming filter to correct. In these conditions Velvia seems to pick up and enhance colour.making it a more ideal film for gloomier light.</p>

<p>At the beginning and end of the day the tendency of all the Velvias to pick up nuances of colour and make them stronger ( ie the very characteristic that makes it so valuable in gloom or shade) produces some pretty odd colours. These range from exaggerrating the reds and yellows of dawns and sunsets, to turning the vague grey-blue of pre-dawn and of dawns when the sun doesn't shine into a distinct and IMO unpleasant magenta/purple. Provia 100F does not do this to anywhere near the same extent. </p>

<p>In summary I'd be happy to have Provia 100F in my camera in all conditions except dull or shady. I'd be happy to use Velvia 50 apart from at sunrise/sunset and the periods immediately before and after. </p>

[randyhargraves]

<p>In my experience Provia scans a little better than Velvia 50. By better I mean the scans look a little cleaner and less grainy. That's been the case on my epson flatbed as well as pro lab scans. </p>