need to get closer with my macro

[marsha_milne]

<p>I currently use a canon rebel XSI, I am doing alot of macro (hobby) work. My macro lens is a tamron 90mm 2.8 1:1 .<br>

I want to get closer, would you use a teleconverter,kenko extension tubes, or a combination of the two. I have also read about the canon 500D close up lens, (which I don't think will work with the tamron. )<br>

I just want more detail like I see on some of the forums on the net.<br>

thank you. also, is there a way I can get an e mail if someone replies to my post ??</p>

[carbon_dragon]

<p>Why would it not work? They're essentially filters you screw on to the end of the lens. Mine is 72mm and I use step-ups to use on smaller lenses. But I think teleconverters and extension tubes would also work, though it would cost you some light. With that much magnification you won't have much working distance and depth of field will be practically non-existant.</p>

<p>I remember a special lens Minolta made back in the old days. It was essentially a macro lens with a build-in bellows that went from 1:1 to 3:1 (the 1x-3x macro lens). I think it came in it's own special little case. I don't have enough patience for this much magnification.</p>

[py-photography]

<p>Extension tubes should shorten the focusing distance.<br>

If you extension tubes, try them out digital trial and error doesn't cost anything but time. One of the greatest things about digital photography.... IMO</p>

[bangengeman]

<p>Do you have the budget for a Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8? I understand it might not be as versatile as the Tamron Macro Lens (a secretly popular choice as a portrait lens by some). Personally, I'd use extension tubes, but I haven't had the chance to try those out on a macro lens. If you also want to get "extreme", a reversing ring would be nice to have to get even closer.</p>

[SCL]

<p>I'm not sure what you mean by wanting more detail. Sometimes details are better revealed by the creative use of lighting than increased magnification (think of small coins shot using side lighting). If you mean you want increased magnification, then you need to consider the subject as well....ie many insects don't like to have objects moved too close in to them, so the answer here is to use a longer focal length lens. Also note that the closer you move in the harder it is to create proper light on your subject, and any subject movement will be really hard to stop, and as mentioned above DOF will be really narrow so focusing is difficult at best. There are techniques to really capture small objects with incredible DOF, such as shooting slices at different levels and stacking them electronically, and there is software to do this very effectively. Here's a link you might find helpful to a different forum specializing in macro work: http://www.photomacrography.net</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p >You can mount a supplemental close-up lens. If you want to get closer. This will be the simplest and least expensive way. The good ones are two element lenses in a cell with threads that screw on you lens like a filter. These lenses are actually positive (magnifying) lenses and they are sold in various powers (strengths). When mounted you are allowed to focus much closer than the closest distance you camera otherwise permits. With the 500 mounted, you start at 500mm when the camera is set to infinity ∞ (as far as the eye can see). That’s the far distance. In inches, that's 19 1/2 inches. I can't tell you how close you will actually be able to get with this supplemental lens but I can tell you how you can perform a simple test.</p>

<p >The close-up lenses we mount on our cameras are photo grade but we can test for effect by hand holding, in front of our lens, a store bought eyeglass (reading glasses). </p>

<p >Reading eyeglasses are actually the same type of lens, just a lower quality and cut are oval and they are missing the mounting threads. The eyeglass variety are single elements so they have color aberrations. However you can easily hand-hold them in front of your camera and see how close they allow you to focus. That way you can select the power you require for your needs. </p>

<p >Eyeglasses are sold using a power measurement called a diopter. Camera close-up lenses are also sold using this measurement however, some makers only label them using the millimeter measurement. </p>

<p >+1 diopter = 1000mm +2 diopter =500mm + 3 diopter = 333mm +4 diopter = 250mm +5 diopter = 200m. The Nikon 500 is a +2 diopter lens. </p>

<p >The Nikon 500 is a +2 diopter. The most common is and perhaps the most useful is a +3 which is 333mm. With a +3 mounted your camera starts at 333mm or 13 inches and gets closer as you adjust focus. </p>

 

[paddler4]

<p>The simplest and most flexible solution is a set of kenko tubes. You get three of varying lengths, which you can stack in any combination, which gives you lots of flexibility. In theory, all three together should give you about 1.8:1, but because of the design of macro lenses, people report more, so perhaps 2:1. I use them routinely and have never had a problem. Here is an example of a shot with a 60mm macro lens and a tube, I think maybe 20mm (the fingernail gives you the scale): http://dkoretz.smugmug.com/Nature/Bugs/MG2234/720619865_AtrbV-XL.jpg</p>