Is your Speed Graphic, Ebony, Horseman or Toyo clean enough?

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Are your LF bodies and lenses clean enough; or do you clean them on a regular basis?<br>

<br />If you clean them what household cleaning products do you recommend?<br>

What stuff do you use to clean off salt and dirt?<br>

`<br>

<br />Here is a 4x5 Speed Graphic that went under salt water during Katrina (aug 2005) for many hours.<br>

I did not find the footlocker type case it was in for several weeks; it was still full of water. Everything inside as a total loss; it has just been a bunch of crap at the summer home since Katrina that I did want to throw away. Thus tonight after watching the Saints game and a few beers I pried up the Speed graphics clamshell; using a liberal amount of PB nutblaster. To get the lens board off took nutbuster/lube too; along with a hammer.<br>

<br />One can see the focus spot attachment to the left of the wind knob; used to focus in total darkness. It shoots a beam out the front RF window(s).<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160062CORROISION.jpg?t=1263709027" alt="" /><br>

Here the brass side cover is already removed. ( it is sitting on the rangefinder) . You do NOT have to remove the wind knob; some cool person at Graflex has those slots! A toothbrush helps remove some bayou slime and dirt. The Brass deal has the rubbing gizmo that is used with the slower speeds; ie when you move the selector switch forward. When you move the switch forward; the gizmo's gear engages the gear on lower curtains shaft. Notice teh 127mm Ektar lloks amber; thats the rust inside; a cloudly mess. Usually both the leaf and shutter petals are all corroded together.<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160064TOOTHBRUSH.jpg?t=1263709085" alt="" /><br>

Here is the camera getting a good bath using Dawn dishwashing soap! What is amazing is it was left underwater for 1/2 hour and wood seem to be ok. With some trouble I now got the shutter curtain moving some; it fires at one speed now; but abit sluggish.<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160076SOAP.jpg?t=1263710335" alt="" /><br>

It Looks better now when wet still; will this be a good Ebay photo?<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160073MOREWATER.jpg?t=1263710912" alt="" /><br>

Here is another cleaner; the side plate has bben removed and soaked in Evapo_rust ro de-rerust the big gear; the springs etc. It will soak in all night. This is a weird product; based on what farmers use to use for rust ie molasses hundreds of years ago. Molasses is a chelating agent. It is neither an acid nor a base; one can place ones hands in the stuff. For guns it can remove the bluing.<br />The hole through the aluminum casting to the left lower corner is for lower curtain. The four sided fluted deal is used to *wind up* the torsion spring; to set the shutter tension. The big slotted screw holds the tension deal.<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160092PLATE.jpg?t=1263711823" alt="" /><br>

Here is the backside of the plate: The gears are all corroded up; thus thus unit now will not work on 1/500, 1/125, 1/30 unless I free up the gears; on get another from a junker.<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160091PLATEBACKSIDE.jpg?t=1263712402" alt="" /><br>

The slow speed gear set appears shot. The gear that is all chewed up at first was ALL covered with rust; like a growth; one could not even see any gear teeth at first. It now appears it is phenolic; thus the soaking will be cut short. this body always had poorer slow speeds; the gear must have been about shot pre Katrina.Steel items that are high carbon and stressed too corrode liek mad with salt; here the spring looks nice after some chelation. The brass cup does not rotate; the 2 armed break deal does inside. When you use the slow speed selector; it moves the brass deal to the left; then the red looking gear then engages the gear on the lower curtain. The lower curtains shaft goes into the hole in that circular raised counterbore.<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160096GEARSLOW.jpg?t=1263713642" alt="" /><br>

Here is the shutter curtain hanging up to dry in the shower; it is abit ratty; ie loose threads at the edges. The small metal rectangles at the left of the curtain are the flash sync contacts. The shutter rubs against two fixed contacts in the body.<br />Once you remove the back's 6 wood screws; the shutter is just there. You scoot the spools to the right and pull them out. I had to do this to remove more mud, dead shrimp :) and muck.<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160066SHUTTER.jpg?t=1263714810" alt="" /><br>

FUN?<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160090FUN.jpg?t=1263715271" alt="" /><br>

Here are some 55 year old 4x5" red trays put to use. The fresnel screen and ground glass screens are removed and soaking in Dawn tonight.<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160090FUN.jpg?t=1263715271" alt="" /><br>

Here is another camera to clean. Its focal plane shutter still works after being under salt water. Its 127mm ektar only works at 1/60 and bulb now. The body is from 1941; the lens from 1945; a war blackout version and it is coated too; but has no L symbol. This camera was post WW2 used in the Virgina State crime unit; I bought it eons ago. The Graflex footlocker went under water in Katrina; teh whole locker is in pieces. You wonder how many bad guys or car checks this thing has shot. This was on of the few used speeds I have bought that the RF was perfectly align.<br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P1160085SPEED1941.jpg?t=1263716763" alt="" /><br>

Here is a 3x4 Speed that needs a tad of CLA; its lens is hosed. I cannot get the lens cap off yet. The FP shutter here moves a little; thus there is hope. Maybe some more baths are in order? The whole body can be given a CLA in the field. <br /><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/Katrina%20Speed%20Graphic/P11600843x4camera.jpg?t=1263717392" alt="" /></p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Sorry for typos; it is too late.</p>

 

[steve salmons]

<p>That is one hell of a project you have on your hands there Kelly and so sad to see these fine machines reduced to such a state. I wish you all the very best in your restorartion attempts. I thought I did well to restore a rusty art deco Rolleiflex a couple of years ago but that wasn't a patch on what you are achieving here.</p>

[sg_adams]

<p>So far so good 'eh? Looks like you got it pretty well figured out. First time I've seen a Graphic in a bubble bath though! I was going to say, just try not to add the damage already done, but then again, I've not yet had to remove shrimp from any of mine. </p>

[leicaglow]

<p>That scares the heck out of me! Looks good, but it's the reason I never disassemble my Crown: I don't <em>want </em> to know what it looks like inside<g>. Thanks for sharing.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Once you get them clean and dry coat the shutter curtains with a heavy coat of Lemon Pledge furniture polish, the yellow can, let them soak for an hour or so then rub in and wipe off the excess. The lemon oil and bee's wax will soften the curtain. Pledge works well on the bellows and leather/leatherette body coverings also. 1946 and earlier graphics used XXX Moroccan leather on the body, 1947 and newer use leatherette a type of vinyl.<br />There is a complete top rangefinder pacemaker repair manual and an anniversary speed repair manual available for free at <a href="http://www.southbristolviews.com/">http://www.southbristolviews.com/</a> . The only difference between the top and side rf pacemakers is the rf.</p>

<p>The Kalart rangefinder adjustment procedure is available <a href="http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-adjustment.html">http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-adjustment.html</a> or <a href="http://www.xs4all.nl/~lommen9/kalart/page4.html">http://www.xs4all.nl/~lommen9/kalart/page4.html</a></p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The following links are to the 4 pages from a Side Rangefinder Pacemaker Service Manual for the Focal Plane Shutter, the top rf manual only covers the 4x5. All other aspects of the camera are the same with only minor differences between the 2x3, 3x4, 4x5 versions.<br>

<a href="http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/189/82548528.jpg">http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/189/82548528.jpg</a><br>

<a href="http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6455/96985610.jpg">http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6455/96985610.jpg</a><br>

<a href="http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9687/76640850.jpg">http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9687/76640850.jpg</a><br>

<a href="http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/442/33215688.jpg">http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/442/33215688.jpg</a><br>

Do not use WD40 or 3 in 1 oil for lubrication as they will dry out and leave a sticky residue. WD40 may work as a cleaner on some of the metal parts.<br>

TriFlow <a href="http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html">http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html</a> is an excellent oil for use where an oil is called for. Use White Lithium Grease or similar grease anywhere grease is called for. </p>

<p>Good luck with the governor.</p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Charles; thank you very much for the great links; to all thanks for the comments. You have agreat library of info. I lost some paper copies of Graphlex repaoir stuff in Katrina. I have taken a speed apart before; but it has been along time.</p>

<p>Today I got unscrewe the frot group on the 127,mm ektar. To remove the front element one removes the trim ring. It is threaded in place; but there are no lands to grab. It was still full of water; I buzzed ff two hollows with a grinder and got the two elements in the front group open.<br>

<br /> The shutter was COMPETELY gone; ie a corroded mess; the rust etched the glass elements too</p>

[vick_vickery]

<p>I'm astounded that its cleaning up so well after all this time! I'm afraid I would have junked it before trying...I admire your determination to save the cameras!</p>

[w_t1]

<p>Really interesting stuff..."Pimp my Speed Graphic." I admire anything like this in this day and age of digital throwaways.</p>

<p>I have some stuff called RustMort, as in "Rust Mortician" that got at an autobody supply store that works wonders on cleaning up rust.</p>