If you had $5k - $6k for a camera outfit what would you get?

[buffdr_rasouliyan]

<p>I would get 1D mark4 with 24-105L=enuff said. Slowly build L glass line-up. v/r Buffdr</p>

[mike_hitchen]

<p>My preferred set-up would be 7D, 17-55 f2.8L and 70-200 f4L IS. I find the 17-55 to be a great walk-around lens with the APS-C sensor - the 10-22 is pretty much landscape only and you can add it later on if you want the wider angle.<br>

The 17-40 f4L is an alternative to the 17-55 - it is less prone to flare than the 17-55 so may make the better landscape lens, but I find that its top end of 40mm (even on APS-C) limits its use with other subjects.<br>

My personal view is that buying primes would serve you no purpose whatsoever.</p>

<p>I agree regarding the memory cards - the professional range is probably way more than you need, I would say that those are for high transfer rates and ensuring rapid shootng times with higher-resolution cameras (OK, they may be more durable as well but how extreme will your conditions be). Just get the Extreme range.</p>

<p>You make it sound like you are shooting mainly jpeg. With 2x8gb cards = 4,000 shots assuming JPEG file of 4MB. Over 7 days that is some going if you are also hiking, fishing etc! I would learn some photo-discipline and shoot RAW +Jpeg (or mRAW+ jpeg) and get the best of both worlds. Or get 4 x 8GB and shott RAW+jpeg.</p>

<p>Never underestimate the amount of accessories you could need (it can get pretty scary cost-wise):<br>

Lens hood for 17-55 - almost essential for landscape shots with that lens<br>

Carbon fibre tripod for carrying out to fishing/camping spots, and a decent tripod head with markings on the base for panoramic shots (you can update to a gimbal head if you get really interested in that aspect of photography). Or go cheaper and get a monopod.<br>

Remote release cable when using tripod (you can use the camera's auto-timer but you less control over precise timing).<br>

Circular polariser (very useful for removing glare when taking shots of water or generally on bright days), set of graduated neutral density filters for when taking picures with a bright sky.<br>

Portable storage to back up your photos while out in the field.<br>

Bag for carrying gear<br>

Photoshop Elements<br>

Maybe Lightroom for cataloging and organinsing pictures if you think you will take gazillions of photos.<br>

Upgrade your computer, if needed, to handle and edit file sizes of 18MB.<br>

Flash for indoors</p>

<p>In future:<br>

expand your lens range, maybe ading the 100-400 L which I think is a bit large as part of a 'starter pack'. Or add the 10-22 if you want to get those <em>really</em> wide landscapes (not everyone does) or inside shots.<br>

1.4x teleconverter for 70-200 if you want more length without the expense of the 100-400<br>

Close-up lens for macro (to see if you really want to get serious about it) and if you do get the 100mm macro.</p>

<p> </p>

[tom_boston1]

<p>Adorama is sells three 32GB Extreme III compact flash cards for $460. After a rebate, the price comes down to $260 and it's tough to beat that price on a per gigabyte basis.</p>

<p>It can be argued that a single large card that never leaves your camera during the trip is safer than shuffling many 4gb cards. Unless you are shooting frequent long and rapid bursts, the speed of the card isn't an issue. Unless you are somehow risking your cards in very extreme environments, the extra rugged flash cards don't really buy you anything that regular cards don't have.</p>

<p>The only real drawback to a slower card is download time into your computer. If you aren't on a deadline, do it at home and catch up on your email while downloading the cards to your hard drive.</p>

<p>Link to the Adorama's <a href="http://www.adorama.com/IDSCFE332G3X.html">32GB deal</a> . If you want to be more conservative, here's the link to the <a href="http://www.adorama.com/IDSCFE316G3X.html">16GB deal</a> . (Personally, 16GB covers me for a whole day of shooting and I wouldn't have to worry about a $200 rebate getting lost in the mail.)</p>

<p> </p>

[hal_b]

<p>Mark,</p>

<p>No, I didn't mean the 50D. I meant the 5D (Original 12MP version, lightly used, from 2005). I can't get on board with what you're trying to accomplish, in the way you mean to do it. I only wanted to express how I would put together a system for myself. I'm a photographer, not a videographer. Personally, I don't care one hoot if my still camera can take video or not. I have a $400 video camera that does wonders for that. I can always put the video camera on a tripod and let it roll while I click away with my still camera. Video shoots itself.</p>

<p>While I may not care about video, I DO know how to get everything I need for whatever the budget is. Alot of people on here are recommending you waste up to 15% of the cash on a tripod, a single accessory. I use a $45 tripod because I prefer to spend my money on something important, like lenses. $45 can buy you a very sturdy, durable tripod. In the end, it's a stick in the ground with a screw on it. Big hairy deal. Some people forget that carbon fiber wasn't always around. It's a luxury, not a necessity.</p>

<p>Or hundreds of dollars in batteries because there is still a stigma in the professional photo community at large that name brand batteries are somehow magically better than the alternative. The fact is, name brand batteries fail, too. And even if you only get 80% of the juice out of a 3rd party battery, you can buy a dozen of them for the price of a single brand-name battery. That puts you at 960% as much power for the same price. Personally, they're all I use because I can afford dozens of them and keep them around everywhere. If one dies, big deal, I have plenty of spares. And I've never, ever heard of one "exploding" in a camera before in all my life. Exploding in the charger, maybe, but not in the camera. For one parting shot, try this on for size: I get longer life out of any of my Chinese ripoff batteries than the Canon battery that came with the camera.</p>

<p>I can get a camera plus a full range of lenses, plus macro and fast primes, plus lights, power, memory cards, and other accessories for just about any price. If I had $200, I could do it by buying a single P&S camera. For $1000 I get a Canon G11 with some choice lighting accessories. For $2000 I get a Digital Rebel with some nice lenses. For $4000 I get a really nice camera like the 50D with some really nice lenses. At $6000, I get exactly what I want, and I get all of it, including some specialty items like the 100mm macro. I wouldn't consider the 7D unless my total budget was about $10,000. And I certainly wouldn't consider a 1DIV unless I had about $20,000 total to spend. The glass should always be commensurately more expensive than the body you are putting it on.</p>

[sd_woods]

<p>Any outfit?</p>

<p>Either:<br>

2 Contax G2s<br>

21/2.8<br>

45/2<br>

90/2.8<br>

Lots of Tri-X and Acros<br>

Lovely bag<br>

A few trips</p>

<p>Or:<br>

Equivalent Leica setup<br>

Probably less trips<br>

Lots of film</p>

<p>Just something different for you, though I don't expect you'll get it.</p>

[krishna_s]

<p>Mark, if you already understand perspectives, I would get these lenses</p>

<p>70-200 f/2.8 IS- $1,600 - A great lens for the outdoors/sports, if you feel it's too heavy (1.3kg), go for the 70-200 f/4 IS which is lighter and smaller..<br>

1.4x II extender- $400<br>

17-40mm f/4- $780 - A great landscape lens <br>

50mm f/1.8 - For everything else. - $100<br>

Buy 3 4GB CF's from Lexar Professional 233x because when you're writing to smaller cards, even if you lose the card you will still be losing only 4gb of data. - $150<br>

Buy a completely waterproof bag such as the Lowepro DryZone Rover for outdoors/kayaking, and also buy a Holster system like the Spider Holster/ Cotton Carrier/ BlackRapid R-Strap, which is useful for carrying the camera on your hips and leaving you hands-free for outdoor sports.<br>

That's pretty much all you need for outdoor photography.. I think spending all the money is overkill. Keep the money for future lenses such as the rumored 14-24 f/2.8L, or future camera bodies you might want to invest in.</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>If it were me, I would take that $6000 and go wild on <em>Hasselblad</em> and maybe <em>a Sinar 4 x 5 with Nikon glass</em>. But that's just me! :-)</p>

[scrwkng]

<p>Nobody cared to mention an Olympus system? E-3, 12-60mm and 50-200mm is the most weather sealed system, light weight, excellent IQ all for under $3000. This system isn't for everybody, but I feel it's an incredible outdoor enthusiast system.<br>

Something to consider anyways.</p>

[mark_ennis]

This is excellent advice and thoughts. I'm no expert and the money is given in one single shot. I either spend it or lose it so may as well spend as much as possible. I have tallied up what you all have recommended so far and it looks like I'll most likely reduce the cost of accessories, non-name brand batteries, simpler tripod and spend the bulk of the cash on lenses.

 

Thank you so much for the input. Keep it coming as I don't submit the wish list until December 24th. My dad is a wonderful man but also a bit eccentric. 74 years old and still working as a Medical Group Manager, he retired from practicing medicine at 65.

 

Merry Christmas to you all!

Mark

[brucecahn]

<p>If I were to have only one camera, it would have to be an 8x10 film camera. For digital, in that price range, I would get a 5DMKII with 85mm f1.2 and a 50mm, whichever 50 I could afford. For a tripod, since funds are limited, I would get a Berlebach woody.</p>

[John Crowe]

<p>5DII, used 17-35/2.8 L, 50/2.5 Macro, 70-200/4 L, 300/4 L IS, 1.4x, 3 more batteries, 580 EX, six 8 GB extreme III, heaviest Manfrotto tripod you don't mind carrying, smallest tabletop tripod to sit on a rock or a car roof, and a Manfrotto monopod doubles as a walking stick. If I had to skip something for the initial budget it would be the flash.</p>

<p>For myself a couple of these lenses are a compromise. If you are going to spend more megabucks in the next year or two then as far as lenses go I'd start with 16-35/2.8 L, 50/1.4, 70-200/2.8 L non-IS, and 1.4x.</p>

<p>Now for my personal choice, and this comes from the devoted (read that as bent and twisted) landscape side of life, 5DII, 17 TS-E, 50/1.8, 135/2 L. Get any other lens you need later.</p>

[tholte]

<p>Listen to Hal and forget your brother-in-law</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>I would tell the others to hold their money, buy with what I had on hand; and then, if they believed in it, have them fund a short press run of a book that I made with that camera I could get.</p>

<p>If you use what you've got, and redirect your supporters into supporting a project you've got a successful start on, they might feel better about their part of the funding.</p>

<p>It's a totally different option than what you've asked; but, really, that's what I'd recommend people do with a few thousand. If you don't like books, pick a digital media for publication; or, some other type of project. Redirect efforts from equipment acquisition to project support.</p>

<p>If it doesn't work out, then you've contained your losses within your budget. If it's an idea with potential, your close supporters will probably help you, if they have a real opportunity to do so without hardship.</p>

[michael j hoffman]

<p>A Canon G11 and a small flash, and a hell of a workout for my passport.</p>

<p>Michael J Hoffman</p>

[nathangardner]

<blockquote>

<p>Tripod - $45</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Seriously. I would never put a $2k camera on a $45 tripod. I just invested in my first good tripod and I would call it a good reliable entry level tripod and it cost me $300. Do not skimp on the tripod. I have a Manfrotto 055XProB and I love it. It will save you lots of headaches to get a good ripod.</p>

<p>As for lenses, that depends on the body. If it were me, I think I'd buy 2 bodies. 1 FF and 1 APS-C. This will virtually double your lens set and you'll have a camera especially for portraits and landscapes and one especially for sports and wildlife. I'd get a 40D and a 1st gen. 5D, unless you wanted to fork over the moey for the 5D Mk.II, which also has HD Vid. I would say you want a 17mm or less on the wide end of an APS-C body, but if you have a FF to accompany it, then you don't have to go that wide. A 24-70mm 2.8L and a 70-200mm 2.8 L would cover everything from 24mm-320mm between the 2 bodies. I'd also get a couple primes. Maybe a 50mm and a 85mm or even a macro. The 100mm macro is a great dual purpose macro/portrait lens.</p>

[lei_wang3]

<p>The question is,</p>

<ol>

<li>Do you want to become a better photographer</li>

<li>Or do you want to blow $6000 as a newb because it's solely someone else's money?</li>

</ol>

<p>For one, I think spending $1000 each lens for 3-4 lenses is a completely waste for a beginner. Spending $700 on a tripod? Pretty much idiocy.<br>

If you're a pro, selling photos and shooting weddings where IQ and 40x60 prints matter, every little bit counts. If you are a beginner, no amount of expensive glass is going to make your photos better.<br>

What I would suggest is, spend $2000, at most, on camera, lens, tripod, and accessories. Ask to put the other $4k on hold, 'because I want to know what I really would use before I spend it all'. <br>

I mean, if you've never driven a car before, would you buy a GTR based on internet forum people, or would you buy a cheaper one, learn to drive, then decide for yourself what type of driving you want to do?<br>

$2000: </p>

<ul>

<li>Canon T1i with 18-55 and 55-250 kit lens ($900)</li>

<li>Tokina 12-24 $499</li>

<li>50mm 1.8 $100</li>

<li>Lightweight tripod < $200</li>

<li>Speedlight 580EX $385</li>

<li>CPL filter, ND filter $100</li>

<li>2x generic battery, 4x8GB SD, bag $200</li>

</ul>

<p>If you can't shoot great photos with the above kit, you should sell the whole kit, not spend more on L lenses.</p>

[tom_boston1]

<p>Nathan makes a good point about the tripod. I've got a Manfrotto too, don't recall the model as I bought it very long time ago and it's out in the car right now, but it's probably a predecessor to Nathan's 055XProB. Solid and worth the money. And you can get different types of tripod heads depending on your needs.</p>

<p>Speaking of support, a monopod might be useful too. Again, what you really need depends on what you are shooting.</p>

<p>Good support is the single best thing that will make sharper pictures. But getting into basics like that is really getting off topic. Partly my personal bias, if you are a newbie and want to learn, something with two control wheels (separate dials for aperture and shutter speed) is nice.</p>

<p>Is there a reason you are locked into Canon? Or is Nikon or any other brand something you'd consider?</p>

<p> </p>

[bryan_lardizabal]

<p>5DMkII + used 300mm f2.8L IS</p>

[o_brian]

<p>My 2 cents......<br>

Having done a fair amount of backpacking, mountain climbing, rock climbing, and many other things 'outdoors', I'm a big proponent of "less is more". Lugging a bunch of gear around sucks. It's cumbersome and heavy. I found that most of my memorable shots come from P&S's. That moose just 25 yrds off the trail will most likely just be a memory if you have to unclip your waist belt, wiggle out of your backpack, unzip and forage around for your camera - it'll be long gone. A nice P&S (Canon S90 for example) in a pocket will be quick and do a credible job. Of course you can bring along the heavier gear for when time allows, but many times outdoor activities simply don't allow enough time or are just too darn impractical to carry around when mobility is key (like fly fishing). Now if you're goal is to record other peoples fun akin to being a photographer for Outdoor Magazine, well that's a different animal.</p>

<p>So I'd start by making sure I had a good P&S and THEN expand on the dslr route. And I think David Streets seemingly esoteric Olympus suggestion might warrant a closer look. Naturally the 4/3s thing is a bit of a lightning rod on a Canon forum, but this new 620 body (light, well built, versatile, inboard Im.Stab, slave flash triggered from pop-up flash, swivel lcd - I love the swivel on my canon A610) combined with their 12-60 and 50-200mm lenses provide coverage from a 35mm equivalent of 24mm through 400mm. Both of these lenses have been been very well reviewed. Again they're light, well built, focus super fast, weatherproofed, and did I mention LIGHT. If there's a problem with the Olympus system it ain't the glass. Perhaps not deep enough in variety of lenses for pro's, but a compelling solution for most hobbyist's. Knowing that plugging the Olympus system is like trying to promote leprosy, I'll simply join the camp that suggest's focusing on glass whether it be Canon, Nikon, or whoever and then work my way backwards - body, flash, tripod, etc..... Spend the extra dough for the higher output flash. <br>

Keep in mind, my perspective is from that "light and versatile" viewpoint and from having experienced the downside to the big gear. I like having it, but more times than not my P&S's have done most of the heavy lifting (so to say). Get a good one.<br>

</p>

[mizore]

<p>Everyone else has given you good advice on putting money on the lenses. If this was your money, the advice to start slow would be appropriate, but since it's a one-off take it or leave it offer, that's not relevant. I'd hold off on specialist lenses and put the money on two zooms that cover from wide angle to 200 to 300mm, and add a 50mm f/1.4 for going light. Then get a light amateur grade zoom for the days when you're just fooling around: wide angle to portrait/short telephoto (or pick that up on your own dime). The interfaces for cameras doesn't change that much from one to another within brands if they're in the last 5 years or so, so I wouldn't worry about getting exactly what your brother-in-law has. The advantage of having the same brand is that you can share lenses and perhaps batteries, which gives both of you some advantages.</p>

<p>Unless you are hiking a lot, get a decent aluminum tripod (even used) and put the money in the head (ball heads are popular) and quick release plates (one for the camera, one each for any lenses with tripod mounts). Gitzo and Bogen/Manfrotto have been around for a while and have spare parts available. Tripods last a long time. Winterize a metal one with pipe insulation or bicycle handle bar tape. </p>

<p>Monopods are worth having if you're out chasing larger wildlife. I like my Manfrotto 653B Neotec, but it's a bit heavier and longer than more classic monopods. </p>

<p>Get the most powerful flash (biggest GN at 100 ASA/ISO) you can. Buy a flash of the brand of camera you're getting for a first flash and add a snap on diffuser if one doesn't come with the flash. </p>

<p> </p>

[divetex]

<p>$1200 for a tripod and backpack? Unnecessary to spend that much. You should be able to get a good, light, carbon-fiber tripod, head, and backpack for less than $800. Spend your money on quality glass. Buy a 24-105 L USM IS, a 70-200 f/4 L IS, and a longer lens if you really need one - which I doubt. I think I'd also recommend a 50mm f/1.8 as well.</p>

[chris_clarke3]

<p>All I can do is sell my set-up.</p>

<p>5D2, 16-35II, 50L, 100L. Manfrotto CF tripod with a Gitzo QR1740 head. 580 EX II and a 270EX. I also have a 580 and a STE-2.<br />I do have a 24-105 but I hardly use it.</p>

[yakim_peled1]

<p>

<p dir="ltr">7D, 10-22, 17-55/2.8 IS, 100/2.8 IS or 70-200/4 IS, Gitzo 1541T, RRS BH25 LR, Kirk/RRS L-plate, 430EX II.</p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

<p dir="ltr">I have all of this save from the 100/2.8 IS (on the way), 70-200/4 IS (had it, sold it) and 430EX II (have the 580EX).</p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

 

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

</p>

 

[dcstep]

<p>There are lots and lots of good point here. I do see a lot of fast lenses suggested and think that may be overkill. I work with a 5D MkII and a 7D and find that their excellent high-ISO performance really negates the need for anything faster than f4, except for special purposes, none of which you've listed.</p>

<p>Everyone raves on and on about bokeh. I find that you can get plenty of bokeh at f4 and even f5.6 on your teles. You DO want f4; however, so that your 1.4TC will work. Bokeh has it's place in photography, but I think that many get carried away with it and forget how good an image can look with deep DOF.</p>

<p>You might also budget for a 25mm Extension Tube. An ET transforms the EF 70-200mm f4L IS into an excellent macro lens.</p>

[w_t1]

<p>tripod: Gitzo metal with head (Ebay, people dump them for the carbon pods)<br>

batteries: go cheaper (sterlingtek.com)<br>

cards: go cheaper (i use run of the mill 4gb sandisk cards $19 at newegg et al, i use 1dmk2, 40d, 5d, have seen no loss of performance, not for what you want to pay)</p>

<p>bodies, i have no problems with the 7d. I dont have dslr video, but am happy using the Canon hv30 hd cam (tape), consider going that route, I like my video separate from stills, the canon hd line is reasonable</p>

<p>lenses, why not take it slow and start with just one, shoot with it a while. the lenses will always be there...</p>

<p>and what one other mentioned, how much photography are you doing now? You may be better off starting with like a g11, which you will want anyway :) go ahead and get the 580 flash it will work with the g11,</p>

<p>i think the worst thing is getting a bunch of stuff off the bat, and not liking all of it</p>