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increasing contrast w. tmy-2


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<p>I shoot the new tmax film, tmy-2, at the rated speed 400. But so much of the time the light, outdoors, is very diffuse due to overcast conditions. I use T-Max developer and develop for the Kodak recommended times. If I add 10 or 20 percent to the development time, am I going to "ruin" these negatives? Will the graininess increase? I hear so much about the sensitivity of this film to development times, I am a little worried about doing this. I would appreciate any comments from those of you who have increased development times but who have shot the film at the rated speed. Should I shoot the film at a higher speed and develop normally? I don't want a huge increase in contrast or in grain.</p>
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<p>Graininess is directly related to density -- it's the build up of film grains that makes the density. That said, I find TMY-2 to be rather forgiving (compared to TMX anyway) in this respect. It's so fine grained for so much speed that a little more graininess isn't likely to be noticeable. The only way to find out if it's too much for you is of course to try it and see.</p>
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<p>Bruce,</p>

<p>Increasing contrast in printing is a very good approach, if it gives you satisfying results, because it doesn't risk increasing graininess as a result of extended development. If one was stuck using a single grade of paper, and prints were consistently too soft, increasing development incrementally, and reducing exposure as needed, is the standard methodology. If you shoot at higher speed and develop normally, you'll lose your shadow detail without increasing contrast. VC paper is truly a minor miracle, and so is TMY-2! Incidentally, and somewhat ironically, Tmax developer is not Kodak's recommended developer for Tmax films. Xtol will produce finer grain without compromising sharpness. Good luck!</p>

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<p>You can increase contrast during printing by either using a higher contrast filter for polycontrast paper, or a higher numbered contrast grade paper. You can also increase contrast by over agitating film during development. Instead of five seconds every thirty seconds, agitate ten seconds every thirty.</p>
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<p>Speaking of X-Tol, how does it compare with Clayton F60 film developer (for developing T-Max film)? I'm just about to order a bottle. The trouble with X-Tol is that one cannot get it in smaller quantities and it doesn't store well for long periods of time, so there is waste. Of course, it is relatively inexpensive. </p>
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<p>For scanning negatives, lower contrast is welcomed by some. For me, I like more contrast when direct printing.<br>

You may wish to try Photo Formulary's BW-2 for Tmax. It is a 2-liquid kit that you can combine and adjust for contrast purposes at the time of development. It may be a bit expensive but it delivers terrific results and comes in a few different sizes, so you could try it without a huge investment.<br>

http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=0&tabid=1</p>

 

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<blockquote>

<p>In the Tech Pub F-4043 of TMY-2 on page 2 Kodak states that T-MAX, among others, is the recommended developer for TMY-2.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Kodak may recommend T-Max developer for T-Max films, or merely provide data for that combination, but there's no need to stick with that combination.</p>

<p>There's a common misconception that T-Max developer was designed specifically for T-Max films, or that T-Max films can only deliver good results in T-Max developer. It's just a marketing tie-in. When Kodak first introduced their C-41 process monochrome film they also slapped the "T-Max" label on it, which led to some confusion. It was just marketing hype to publicize the "T-Max" marque. They later tried other labels with various C-41 process emulsions, including T400CN, a b&w version of "Portra" and one or two others.</p>

<p>I've never used T-Max developer for TMX or TMY and have gotten excellent results with several other developers.</p>

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<p>Lex,</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Kodak may recommend T-Max developer for T-Max films, or merely provide data for that combination, but there's no need to stick with that combination.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree, there is no need to stick with <strong>any</strong> combination. <br>

It all depends on what one want's to archive in their photography.</p>

<p>

<p>Btw, I got excellent results with T-MAX/TMY-2.;) </p>

 

<br>

Rudy</p>

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