jeff_drew4

<p>I agree with Chris! The TLA 200 is very good (I like & use mine!), and I have looked at the 360 for the same reasons. However, I keep checking nearly every brand's flash vs the Metz versions when needing power & design perks. Metz generally has given me more features for the similar dollar when compared with some other major brands. Using the TLA200 as a trigger for other flashes is also a plus.</p>

<p>Scott, I use both P645 and Hasselblad V systems and have both lenses in manual focus. Frankly, the Pentax 75mm is excellent as is the CZeiss Planar 80mm. Comparing a relatively late model 75mm vs which CZ 80mm (C,F series) is kind of an exercise in degrees of image "excellence." Workflow and mechanical quality etc are different and unique to your preferences. Your skill will affect the images & output more than the differences between the lenses given portraits & landscapes. Question: are you considering film format questions and the rectangle vs square choice? Still, both lenses are fine as are both camera systems. Decades ago,I chose to have both systems and skip expensive adapters . . . ;-) LOL! Today, I question putting any more dollars into film systems given the digital universe.</p>

<p>Kerkko, I have & use the 250mm on a 501cm with a couple different extension tubes as needed. So I am sharing based on experiences etc. I agree with Ed's comment, and the other reference/recommendation for the Bogen/Manfrotto 293. I use an older version of the 293 for other telephoto rigs & combos needing the support, but I am surprised that you would need this for your rig. What tripod & head combo is causing the problem? I use an older Gitzo Studex & ballhead with no issues, but it is an old, heavy-duty rig. For my 501CM + 350mm + Extender, I use a monster Gitzo + bigger ballhead. Here is a suggestion: Add a small counterweight atop your 503CW - like a small beanbag filled with lead shot. That may center & balance your combo. and absorb vibration from your winder if you are using it. The winder may be adding torque & vibration. That said, it may be time to shop for a bigger tripod & head? good ones last a lifetime; as some of mine are 40+ years old and still work great!</p>

<p>Update: I finally donated enough fluids to afford the Pentax 20-40mm Ltd that I have lusted for. On the K3ii it is a pleasure to use and the images are very sharp & well exposed. Playtime continues, but the sun finally came out today and the snow has stopped for now . . . hurry up springtime!<br> I also am playing with the new, little Metz 26AF-1 for Pentax. Shirt-pocket size but lots of punch and very versatile! Manual & design are a bit strange, but I do not miss the built-in flash on this K3ii. <br> :-)</p>

<p>Law of supply & demand? More people looking at the K3 now that the FF is here - and what a deal? That mint K1000 in the closet is looking pretty good now too! :-)</p>

<p>speaking of "panoramas" take a look at this instrument! The K3II etc mounted on one of these would really rock! Lots of pixel shifted, stacked images and then stitch away! Woof! Time for a new quad-core processor with lots of ram! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/689699-REG/Giga_Pan_EPIC_PRO_EPIC_Pro_Robotic_Camera.html</p>

<p>I live in a rural area with no photo supply vendors, so I have bought many items from the Ebay platform and have rarely had a problem. However, I gravitate toward known sellers, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan, and U.S. with excellent track records! Price is secondary to me as the seller can make the deal very pleasant and then repeatable. A few Asian vendors have been perfectly honorable in my transactions - no problems. There were no challenges working out the customs, but good communications with the seller are helpful. Each new relationship needs to be developed for a good comfort level. Waiting for the treasure to arrive is the hardest part!</p>

<p>Decades ago, I weighed the 6x6 options and fell into a slightly used 501CM kit at a local shop. The 501CM is mostly bare-bones Hassy design with no electronics. Perfect for me! I have since added all sorts of the usual lusted-for accessories including a metering hood, but I rarely use it. I am old-school with gossen light meters & tripods etc. Occasionally I use my Droid phone as a photo tool & meter; wondrous! Frankly, I like having a plain, reliable body, back & lens combo for film, but that is how I learned the craft long ago. Just my ramblings FWIW.</p>

<p>There is a lot published comparing the K3 vs K3II. The following list of items brought me to the checkout counter with a K3II! I already have significant Pentax system components and this new body/tech adds value for me. Unfortunately, new lenses will have to wait, but old lenses are delivering nicely - I am mostly a prime lens shooter.</p> <ul> <li>Improved Built-in Image Stabilization mechanism (4.5 stops, up from 3.5 stops)</li> <li>Built-in GPS and Electronic compass</li> <li>Improved AF Tracking performance</li> <li>‘Pixel Shift Resolution’ technology</li> <li>New high-precision Gyro sensor</li> <li>Panning detection</li> <li>Automatic horizon correction</li> <li>ASTOTRACER mode</li> <li>Auto level compensation</li> </ul>

<p>10 years later (almost) and time for an update! When the K200d got real cheap, I added that body and learned from there. The 24-90mm lens and MZs still kick butt as an all-around combo! The K200d with the same lens is very good! Overall, no regrets and I still use a variety of Pentax systems. Quite recently, I gathered in a new K3II and a couple more lenses. Awesome technology! Pentax just announced the new FF-K1 and is now taking orders, but I think I'll hang loose and wait for the next one. There is still a lot to learn and then there is film again . . . I love it! To all of you still vertical; Happy New Year!</p>

<p>for us old dogs, Group f/64 philosophy produced a special segment of incredible, sharp pictures. One can spend a small fortune in time and wealth pursuing razor sharp quality. Lens quality and light are important. Inevitably, the whole technique & process for an image is additive. Practice & play!</p>

<p>I am no digital expert or repair tech, nor do I play one on TV! I'll guess the problem is a failing screen component (regulating) with a power issue. I don't know if you have any power options with your rig; i.e. grip w/AA cells vs lithium pak. You could gather more info by swapping cells & experimenting. Also contacting Ricoh tech support may help. Your unit may need a service call to fixit. Just some thoughts - I could be daft!</p> <p> </p>

<p>I am a rangefinder user 75% of camera time. Leica, CV, Fuji 670 etc. with film and I love them all! A couple years ago I got a Fuji X10 as a travel & all-around shooter. Totally satisfied with it and it rocks for quality and work flow etc. after several hundred images and thousands of miles logged. I agree with the Fuji X100 or Fuji RF channel.</p>

<p>Vahe,<br> I was able to snag a N.I.B Elmar-M 50mm f2.8 on Ebay from a large camera dealer who was cleaning shelves & reducing inventory. $450US several years ago. At the time these lenses were out-of-favor. I recommend taking this search on as a fun quest. Since then, the market for these has firmed up, but you may get lucky if you widen the search and make offers etc. :-)</p>

<p>I like the 50mm Elmar M; it's kinda retro and affordable. It also is a good all-around lens.</p>

<p>Ray, The P67 WLF is easy to use, and best on a tripod. My first foray into medium format was 6x6cm TLRs, so when I jumped to 6x7cm, the WLF on a P67 was easy. All the Pentax 67s work best on a tripod or firm & steady mount. You can then take your time and perfect your work flow and seeing. I also use the chimney finder (rigid, magnified WLF) and the prism finder. The prism finder gives eye level use and are as easy as any 35mm SLR that weighs several pounds more. Add practice for steady shooting. Pentax lenses for 6x7cm are mostly excellent and cheap by most standards. Having a P67 kit AND in New Zealand sounds like photo heaven to me . . . on my bucket list! Best Wishes!</p>

<p>I get excellent results from my Fuji X10 with smaller sensor. Given the wonderful lens and Fuji construction, I use this camera more than many of the SLRs/DSLRs in my collection. I do not find the "full-frame" vs Fuji's X10 (2/3) size sensor a problem or real compromise. The camera is nearly pocketable on top of shooting RAW and all the trimmings. I could really see the Xpro2 in my bag someday. *sigh*</p>

<p>I like Fuji lenses and have used them for decades. I will be lusting for the new XPro2! Here is a neat site with pix of the assembly process. Here I go again; Don't tell my wife! :-)<br> http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/18/10785038/fujifilm-x-pro-2-lens-factory-manufacturing-photos</p>

<p>The price does seem a bit high, but there are some reasons: This kit looks like it is in fine condition and the seller probably has an emotional bond with it. This is an original 6x7 with low mileage and has some "antique" value, imo. As to your other major question; the 67II is a closer, modern camera with additional perks and electronics. If you are going to be an active shooter with either kit, then the 67II may be a better investment. Either choice with the sharp P67 lenses can give exceptional quality images and be a longterm field camera and photo education.</p>

<p>Sanjay, I agree with Steve's summary of bellows vs tubes. Basically a bellows is a variable long tube. Greater magnifications are achieved easier with a bellows, but tubes are effective when traveling etc. I always seem to have one handy with my Hasselblad bag as I can get tighter portraits etc with the 250mm +1 short tube. Light compensation is minimal with the shorter tubes. The same is true with the helicoid. With P67ii, the meter will compensate for a tube. For the non-TL metering, one uses "math" or a defined table for compensation info. FYI, I have no experience with the telephotos past 300mm on P67 and cannot contribute much. If you are not sure about macro & want lowest cost startup, I would suggest trying an extension tube + normal lens combo and learn from there.</p>

<p>Anthony, Good to know! I have a couple in need of "LOF" and seals etc. Thanks for the tip! JJD</p> <p> </p>

<p>Bill, I use this lens range occasionally, but do not have or use either lens specifically. I suggest stepping back and consider the list of sites and picture activities you are planning or expecting to do. Then consider a lens range combination that fits it. If you have already done this exercise, then have you considered other focal lengths? I guess I don't see a huge need to change what you already have. In my case, I would likely choose differently as I don't need the zoom ratio(?). How about the Pentax 18-135? Just tossing out some thoughts in order to further complicate the idea! :-) In my case, 80-90% of images are taken within 28mm-75mm lens fov based on 35mm film format. I use the same thinking for APS-C capture and usually have both a film & digibody handy.</p>

<p>I use a P645 routinely when I want that format and convenience. When I do more deliberative work and want 6x6cm, I use my Hasselblad 501cm. I use a PME 90 and manually wind film quickly. I do not miss the winder on the hasselblad. I would prefer a manual winder on the P645 too. I like eye-level shooting when not using a tripod. It just takes a bit of practice with the workflow. Overall, the Hasselblad delivers a bigger & sometimes better image output with the workflow in my world.</p>

<p>I agree with you, Steve! Macro work in 6x7cm is considerably "more" in nearly every property I can think of. I used to make a considerable effort with setups & processing for 6x7cm, 4x5" capture of smaller objects. Then I would pickup my 35mm Konicas or Pentaxes and do the same shots as backups. Finally, I succumbed to smaller is easier! :-) Although, 1 or 2 spectacular shots done on P67 or good rollfilm totally rock my world when properly displayed!</p>

<p>Sanjay,<br> Ring lights have a niche and many don't use them. Most units are usable & adaptable with lenses via specific rings like 58mm & 67mm etc. Mine is an AF160 and I use it more with 35mm film bodies & soon a new K3ii, but I have used it on P645/P67 lenses. Many independent flash makers have ring lights that may fit & work with the P67 lens collection. My useage is/was specific to commercial small parts photos. Bellows use = manual. The P67 auto bellows is cool -tried it, but cannot justify its cost. I use the P67 auto helicoid tube a lot & love it as a variable tube! It is way more convenient for me, and it was in my bag most of the time.</p>