landon_christensen Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 <p>Does anybodoy know if Ilford HP5 + has a naturally purple tint to it? I have tried everything I can think of to get rid of the purple tint yet, to my dismay, the purple tint still remains.</p><p>And those you do a water pre-soak, how long and what temperature do you soak your film? Any agitation?</p><p>Lastly, I have some under-developed spots on my negs, does that mean i should agitate more?</p><p>Thanks,<br>Landon</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 <p>It's all been discussed and cussed in <a href="http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/?category=Negatives%2c+film+base+residual+tint"><strong>this section of the archives</strong> </a> .</p> <p>If the underdeveloped spots resembled clearly defined patches it may be due to layers of film in contact during processing. Check your loading technique to be sure each layer of film stays in the reel guides.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale2 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 <p>After doing film in inversion tanks for decades, I moved from 35mm to 120. I started getting spots, or rather small disks, of underdevelopment. I worked on initial agitation to no avail, hard rapping to shift air bells etc. I eventually tried pre-soaking (3 minutes, temp same as dev, vigorous agitation especially at beginning to dispel air bells.)</p> <p>It worked, but to this day I really don't understand it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m smith Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 <blockquote> <p>It worked, but to this day I really don't understand it.</p> </blockquote> <p>That's strange. I think Ilford suggest that a pre-soak is not necessary.</p> <p>Despite this, I always do a pre-soak as I like to see the anti-halation dye (120 film) come out with the water.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_walker Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 <p>I always presoak my 120 film and I've never had underdeveloped spots (except for the one time I loaded the film into the spools against the curl -- bad idea).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 <p>I used to get the occasional problem with uneven development and streaking, then I started pre-soaking and I've never had a problem since. I pre-soak in water at 20 C, giving six inversions of the tank, then I rap it hard against the heel of my hand to dislodge any air-bubbles, then I let it stand for 2 minutes. I then pour out the water and pour in the developer, giving six intial inversions, then one every 30 seconds after that.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now