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Ilford HP5 +


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<p>Does anybodoy know if Ilford HP5 + has a naturally purple tint to it? I have tried everything I can think of to get rid of the purple tint yet, to my dismay, the purple tint still remains.</p>

<p>And those you do a water pre-soak, how long and what temperature do you soak your film? Any agitation?</p>

<p>Lastly, I have some under-developed spots on my negs, does that mean i should agitate more?</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Landon</p>

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<p>It's all been discussed and cussed in <a href="http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/?category=Negatives%2c+film+base+residual+tint"><strong>this section of the archives</strong> </a> .</p>

<p>If the underdeveloped spots resembled clearly defined patches it may be due to layers of film in contact during processing. Check your loading technique to be sure each layer of film stays in the reel guides.</p>

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<p>After doing film in inversion tanks for decades, I moved from 35mm to 120. I started getting spots, or rather small disks, of underdevelopment. I worked on initial agitation to no avail, hard rapping to shift air bells etc. I eventually tried pre-soaking (3 minutes, temp same as dev, vigorous agitation especially at beginning to dispel air bells.)</p>

<p>It worked, but to this day I really don't understand it.</p>

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<p>I used to get the occasional problem with uneven development and streaking, then I started pre-soaking and I've never had a problem since. I pre-soak in water at 20 C, giving six inversions of the tank, then I rap it hard against the heel of my hand to dislodge any air-bubbles, then I let it stand for 2 minutes. I then pour out the water and pour in the developer, giving six intial inversions, then one every 30 seconds after that.</p>
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