Ektar shot at 80 asa

[peter_korzaan]

<p>I've noticed a couple of comments stating about shooting Ektar 100 at 80 asa.</p>

<p>Why would this be done?</p>

<p>When it is done, do you ask the lab to push the film?</p>

<p>At a regular mini lab (Walgreens) they would just develope as normal, and would it make any differnce being negative film?</p>

[a._t._burke]

<p>Mr. Korzaan...</p>

<p>Shooting at 80 gives the film a little more light. Many folks like the look of Ektar slightly overexposed, especially in the shadow areas. Even Kodak's instructions sheet seems to have a split personality. They say to set your automatic camera to ISO 100 but then stare their "sunny 16" rule as if it was a 50-64 speed film. At 80 you split the difference of their indecision. I have found that if I use an incident meter, it meters best at 100. If I use reflective metering (like in-camera) 50, 64 and 80 work out best depending how much shade or dark stuff is in the exposure area. </p>

<p>Tom Burke</p>

[daniel_mitschke]

<p>It pretty much depends on your metering-behavoiur.<br>

if exposed for the shadows (as one should do with any negative-film) ISO 100 will be right.<br>

a lot of people just don't expose for the shadows, so setting a lower ISO will give the same "effect".</p>

[chrise_boris]

<p>Ektar 100 is fine from -1 to +3. If you don't like to meter the shadows a good compromise is to rate it at iso 25 in a scene with highlights and deep shadows and if low contrast rate it iso 50-100 according to taste.<br /> <a href="http://cceder.com/turkey/mardin_01.html"></a> <br /> <a href="http://cceder.com/turkey/mardin_01.html">Ektar sample</a></p>

[leicaglow]

<p>I personally don't like my negative films over-exposed, so I wouldn't shoot it at 80. I also don't adjust the ISO dial when I want to make corrections. I simply adjust the f/stop, shutter speed, or EV.</p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>Rating it at 80 is basically trying to play it safe with regards to shadow exposure. The best thing to do is to know how to meter and test the film a bit to get a feeling for how it behaves at different exposures.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>1/3rd of a stop is not going to make much difference in color negative film. When bracketing, I take no less than one stop increments, and most often two stops (e.g., for HDR images). As with any negative film, you should use an incident meter, or favor the shadows. Knowing how to measure exposure is important. Tweaking the ISO rating is not.</p>

[a._t._burke]

<p>Mr. Sarile...</p>

<p>On the Ektar row, which setting did you feel was the proper exposure, please? </p>

<p>Tom Burke</p>

[silverscape]

<p>Peter, I think the reason is because Ektar is extremely unforgiving with underexposure. Moreso than any other color print film. At least, any other color film I've used. I usually shoot it at the box rating, but I have also rated as 80 ISO, just to be on the safe side. I don't ask the lab to pull or push or anything. In other words, you might just slightly overexpose the film. I've found that Ektar will handle a little bit of overexposure perfectly fine, but you don't want to underexpose it. If you underexpose it, the colors will get really weird and everything will have kind of a bluish tint. </p>

<p>That's not to say I don't like Ektar. I do. It's one of my favorite color films now. It has an awesome look to it, and I really love the poppy colors...especially red and blue. But it is picky about exposure. </p>

<p> </p>

[a._t._burke]

<p>Mr. Sarile...</p>

<p>Thank you, Sir. On my computer screen I thought the first one looked correct but then it could be my tastes and monitor calibration. </p>

<p>Tom Burke</p>

[peter_korzaan]

<p>Thank you for your respones, I've only shot one roll of the Ektar, but liked the results, and will shoot some more and will be careful not to underexpose it. So far for negative film, I have liked Portra 160 vc the best and will compare it to the Ektar.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>I shoot Ektar 100 at 64 in cloudy bright to bright conditions and at 50 in worse conditions. It's very sensitive to underexposure in flat light. A thin negative will give you a more grainy image and fine grain is the point of using this film.</p>