New to Nikon F3HP

[Carl Stone]

<p>Okay, I just picked up an F3HP w/ 50mm f/1.4 Ai. So, since I've never shot this model any advice concerning this new addition is most welcome. I have a roll of Acros 100 waiting to be loaded, and then it's off to give the F3 some exercise. I might take along my 105 f/2.5 too, just to see how it does on the F3. TIA for any words of wisdom. </p>

[mfophotos]

<p>I think it's among Nikon's finest cameras. The HP finder is wonderful. Remember that when you start a new roll of film, the camera shoots at a default setting until you get to exposure 1. Then everything works as it should. That sometimes confuses people that have never used an F3 (and I think the F4 does that too). Other than that, it's like any other Nikon, except for the 1/80 flash sync speed and flash considerations. Mine has become my main manual Nikon.</p>

[mfophotos]

<p>PS -- you may want to move this to the Nikon forum.</p>

[Carl Stone]

<p>Thanks, Mark, but this forum will work just fine for my purposes. It's not likely that I'll ever shoot flash with it, since I have other alternatives for flash work. <br>

Tell me more about the default setting on the F3HP, if you don't mind. This is my only manual Nikon, unless you count an old AF disabled N2020, and it was retired when I bought my F100. </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>In Canon the break is pretty clear, EOS or FD. For Nikon, not so clear. A lot of folks over the on the Nikon forum are not much interested in the old film cameras, so I don't think it's inappropriate to post here. The F3 and F4 are less clear, to be sure, than the F models, but that sort of haziness is true of most manual to automatic transition cameras.</p>

[mfophotos]

<p>The F3 shoots at 1/250 sec. when you load the film in and start winding it on (which will show up in the viewfinder), then once you get to frame 1, it acts "normally." If you don't have a manual, go here: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/f3manual/index.htm and it basically covers all the functions quite well. Another "gotcha" is that you can cover over the red dot with the switch at the front of the winder lever, and turn off the camera. There is no obvious "on and "off" setting. <br>

The F3HP is easy to shoot with, and with the 50mm 1.4, you will really enjoy the bright viewfinder!</p>

<p>Mark</p>

[steve_bellayr]

<p>You will find this model easier to use than all previous models or succeeding ones. With film loaded you must remember to advance twice for the meter to activate. The shutter control is in wonderful position. Great combination for this model is a Zeiss 2/35mm & a 105mm f2.5. The motor drive is inexpensive and comfortable to hold, should you want one. Practically indestructible. And, as always carry an extra battery on long trips. </p>

[Carl Stone]

<p>Okay, the film needs to advance to frame #1 for the meter to function, and the shutter speed is locked @ 1/250 sec, also until frame #1. So, no meter and 1/250 sec means setting the aperture aperture @ f11 for ISO100 film, if I wanted to use Sunny 16. Thanks for the tips guys! <br>

I'm not really interested in the motor drive, as I want to keep the camera light, plus I never shoot on continuous anyway, so cranking the film advance is no big deal. </p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>My F3HP shoots at 1/80 when you load it, not 1/250. You can still set it to manual for those first shots.</p>

<p>The self timer lever on mine is very stiff. I don't know if this is usual, but it takes some getting used to. The exposure hold button is also a bit inconvenient, but it improves with practice. I sometimes mix it up with the mirror lock. I still also occasionally get confused when using the compensating setting, and end up changing the film speed setting instead. All of this improves with practice and makes a dandy excuse for burning lots of film. There's a tiny button to backlight the LCD, but it's hard to find in the dark. Another thing you might want to practice with before you find you really need it.</p>

<p>Vivitar makes a hot shoe adapter for these, which you can get at B&H. It's well made, and easier to find than the original. Some non-Nikon dedicated flashes will even use one of the side pins and set your shutter speed to 1/80 when you're on aperture priority, though they will not do TTL flash.</p>

<p>Really really nice camera to use. I resisted moving up from the old F for years, but an irresistible bargain in an F3 with some cosmetic scuffing got to me, and I have no regrets.</p>

<p> </p>

[Carl Stone]

<p>Yeah, I just loaded a roll of film, and the viewfinder is showing 1/80 sec. So, I'll open up to f/5.6, and see how that works for the shots prior to #1. It will be outdoors in a sunny environment. Meanwhile, I suppose that leaving the F3 set to A priority isn't going to change anything on the first couple of shots without the meter, and by leaving it there for now, I don't have to worry about forgetting to reset it after once the meter comes into play. </p>

[lilly_w]

<p >Carl, the fact is, prior to frame #1, if shutter speed dial is set to ‘A’, 1/125 or faster, shutter will fire at 1/80^th. If set to 1/60^th or slower, fires at set speed. The mechanical shutter release lever fires at 1/60^th.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >While the slowest manual exposure speed is 8 sec, the metering in aperture priority (‘A’) will permit much slower speeds (30 sec or so, longer?). But do use the eyepiece shutter lever to block extraneous light. The 80/20 metering of the F3 may take some getting used to, especially if coming from a 60/40 body, though the F100 is 75/25. I’ll often use the Exposure Lock button because of the heavily center-weighted metering, especially when shooting slide film. Keep in mind you can use non-AI lenses should you find the bargain…though they will not mount on your F100. (Before mounting non-AI, be sure to flip meter tab out of the way. Must then use stop-down metering.)</p>

<p > </p>

<p >The self-timer switch/collar around the speed dial requires some oomph to turn it, as is the case on both of our F3’s. I’ve been in the habit of using the main on/off switch (under release) to avoid unnecessary battery usage…not that the led display would zap the batteries quickly. Fantastic body you have there. Enjoy!</p>

[gary_watson]

<p>The hyper-long exposure capability is enabled by pushing and holding the exposure lock when the shutter is released with Aperture Priority engaged--a great feature for night shooting. The 80/20 "fat spot" meter pattern usually helps boost your "keeper" quotient. Shooting in Aperture Priority makes this a very fast handling camera. I've got two pretty F3s+MD4s I'm very fond of and shoot regularly. Despite the added weight, the MD4 improves the F3's ergonomics, especially if you have large hands.It's a slightly quirky camera that's widely loved.</p>

[tri-x1]

<p>The F3HP was made from about 1980 to 2000. Nikon continued to make it even when making thr F4 and F5. Maybe the smoothest manual film advance ever put on an SLR.</p>

[david_carroll4]

<p>The F3HP is probably my favorite camera - not necessarily the <em>best</em> 35mm I've ever used (that would be the Olympus OM4T, IMHO), but the most fun to use - a combination of all-metal gravitas, great viewfinder, simple controls, reliable meter and that great industrial so-ugly-it's-pretty styling. As others have mentioned, get yourself an MD-4 and leave it on - makes for a tall slab of a camera body, but it improves the handling significantly and the 8xAAs power the meter also (you can trigger the meter from the drive while the camera power switch is off - I guess this means that the on board silver cells are conserved). Stick the 105mm on there and it doesn't get any better.</p>

[mfophotos]

<p>I'm not sure why I put that speed at 1/250. Of course, it is 1/80. I must have been thinking of the FM2N flash sync speed, LOL. A prime lens on this camera such as the 24mmF2 will make for a great combination. I don't use the MD too often, but when I do, it's very balanced. </p>

[tony_lockerbie]

<p>I used F3's professionally in the early eighties and can assure you that they are very fine cameras indeed. Mine always had the MD4 attached, but they still handle well without it....great advance lever.<br>

Funny, but I have every F Nikon up to the F5, except the F3....must address that situation!</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>The F3 is my favorite Nikon, the only downside is that the exposure metering seems to be biased to negative material - compared with a normal setting of minus 1/3 stop with other cameras when shooting chromes, I tend to set the F3 to minus 2/3 stop or even minus 1 stop.</p>

[steve_levine]

<p> These were the longest produced Nikon pro bodies. When they 1st came out the non-believers whined like crazy. The whole "electronic" pro body thing frightened everyone in 1980. The F3 became every bit a "pro" body as the F's and F2's after people starting shooting with them. And they soon became legendary.</p>

<p>The F3 has a great metering system, and the HP VF is the sort of thing that every camera "should" have. The F3's revolutionized under water Nikon SLR use too. In a housing with the "sport" or any other available finder, the metering is in the body.</p>

[andrew_c2]

<p>Funny, I just picked up my first Nikon camera, an F3HP, this Sunday at a camera show. Also got a 28/3.5 AI and Series E 50/1.8 for peanuts, which they should be.<br>

For me, the F3 was a lust object going back to 2000 when I first got into photography. I've owned more expensive cameras, for sure, but never got around to getting one. I just bought a film scanner and am getting back into film... and finally, these amazing manual SLRs are at a price that I think reasonable (well, they were even a few years ago, but I was stuck in digiland back then).<br>

I find the AE lock button extremely poorly placed for my taste-- still trying to figure out whether I want to push it with my ring finger or my middle finger! Would have been cool if it was accessible somewhere on the top plate by your thumb. <br>

Other than that, the camera handles extremely well and is built like a tank... my last 35mm camera!</p>

[Carl Stone]

<p>Thanks to all that responded, and this was indeed the right forum for my inquiry. There has been a delay, but I finally got out today and shot part of a roll. I can say that the F3 really felt good in my hands, and I'm looking forward to a long relationship with this model. </p>

<p>I'll post a summary of my first roll results sometime next week. </p>