C41 starter formulae?

[sumo_kun]

<p>Hi, I'm thinking of trying my hand at C41 developing at home (mainly because I want to try bleach bypass) and I have researched all the chemicals I need but I have a problem. I live in Japan and it seems that I can't get any Kodak stuff. All I can get are Oriental C41 chems. Thats not a problem but they only have replenishers. From my understanding, C41 colour dev. and bleach replenishers need a starter to be usable as a one-shot solution. Fix and stabilser replenishers are used as is? Well, I can't find any starters for sale so I was thinking of mixing up my own but I have idea what is in them. Can anyone help? Are there alternatives?</p>

<p>Also, the bleach is probably not economical to use as one-shot. Can I just use the bleach, store it in a seperate container to the bleach replenisher, and just keep using it provided I aerate it? Can you over-aerate bleach? Since I'm interested in bleach bypass, I won't be using too much bleach and if I do I'll probably dilute it down a lot so I get a reduced bleaching effect. Considering that, can I just use the bleach replenisher diluted a lot instead of using a starter + diluting?</p>

<p>Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for any help!</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Chuk, here in the USA, there are many kits available. Here's a list of some of the alternative suppliers of C-41. Can you buy any of these? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/c1001-Color-Chemicals-Color-Print</p>

<p>Also, I thought Rollei and Ilford made a kit, but I could be wrong.</p>

[randrew1]

<p>You can't over-aerate teh bleach.</p>

<p>I don't believe the starter formula has been published.</p>

[janne_moren]

<p>Yodobashi and other places have complete C41 kits for sale. Just pick one up and you have everything you need.</p>

 

[sumo_kun]

<p>Thanks for the responses.<br>

I could order from the US butthe shipping, being liquids, would probably make it too expensive. Also buying so much chems might be bad idea for now since I don't know how much I will use so most of it moght go to waste.<br>

I'm aware Yodobashi and the like have the Naniwa kit but I was looking for something a bit more economical (reusing the developer to eek some extra rolls out of it seems a liitle hit and miss in my mind) and something where I can use a seperate bleach and fixer since I would like to try bleach bypass. I guess I might be able to get just the fixer and then use a little of the blix for a short time to get some weak bleaching action... Well I'll look around some more and see what I can do. Thanks for the help people :)</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>I'm surprised you can't get the Fuji chemicals, and they do make a developer starter.</p>

[sumo_kun]

<p>Yes, I'm surprised too!It seems like Fuji don't want to sell to normal people like me :)</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p >As to C-41 developer and bleach starter, likely you can walk into any one-hour photofinishing shop and purchase some.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >That being said: The developer starter is a restrainer. A fresh developer mix without starter somewhat lacks the ability to make a determination as to what silver salts have been exposed and what silver salts have not been exposed. In other words the developer will be too strong. Keep in mind that the starter is added to convert the developer replenisher into a working solution. Once added and a working solution exists, starter is not needed. This is because the missing restrainer is a byproduct of the developing reaction. Stated a different way, bromide, the restrainer is leeched out of the film as it develops. With this in mind, one can process, in the light, two rolls of C-41 film and this procedure will generate a working solution from developer replenisher without starter. This method is not as precise as mixing a working solution with starter however this method is feasible.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >As to the bleach starter: The pH of the working bleach is elevated by developer carry-over. The developer is highly alkaline. Developer is carried into the bleach driving the pH upward. I do advise adding the bleach starter. Keep in mind that it is a strong solution of ammonia. Ammonia is used because it is a gas dissolved in water. When added, the pH of the bleach is temporally elevated. Since the ammonia is a gas it will, in time effervesce out. Thus the ammonia is lost. This is OK because developer carryover maintains the pH in a working tank.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >One can improvise but it would be best if you seek help from a local one-hour shop and procure the two needed starters. </p>

[bogdannicolescu]

<p >As to C-41 developer and bleach starter, likely you can walk into any one-hour photofinishing shop and purchase some.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >That being said: The developer starter is a restrainer. A fresh developer mix without starter somewhat lacks the ability to make a determination as to what silver salts have been exposed and what silver salts have not been exposed. In other words the developer will be too strong. Keep in mind that the starter is added to convert the developer replenisher into a working solution. Once added and a working solution exists, starter is not needed. This is because the missing restrainer is a byproduct of the developing reaction. Stated a different way, bromide, the restrainer is leeched out of the film as it develops. With this in mind, one can process, in the light, two rolls of C-41 film and this procedure will generate a working solution from developer replenisher without starter. This method is not as precise as mixing a working solution with starter however this method is feasible.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >As to the bleach starter: The pH of the working bleach is elevated by developer carry-over. The developer is highly alkaline. Developer is carried into the bleach driving the pH upward. I do advise adding the bleach starter. Keep in mind that it is a strong solution of ammonia. Ammonia is used because it is a gas dissolved in water. When added, the pH of the bleach is temporally elevated. Since the ammonia is a gas it will, in time effervesce out. Thus the ammonia is lost. This is OK because developer carryover maintains the pH in a working tank.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >One can improvise but it would be best if you seek help from a local one-hour shop and procure the two needed starters. </p>

Hi,

I have 1 liter of Kodak Flexicolor developer from a friend who works on a photo lab. Unfortunatelly, it's just the replenisher, doesn't have a starter added. One roll developed in light would be enough to season 1 liter or I would need 2 rolls? Also he gave me some bleach replenisher. Can I use it as it is?

Thanks!

[Alan Marcus]

This developer needs the starter solution added in correct proportion. This addition makes it a working solution. I strongly suggest you try to get some starter from a local photofinisher. OK -- no starter -- OK to try developing two rolls of C-41 to season hoping it will become a working solution. If you were printing the negatives on color paper this would not be a good idea. Since you will be printing digitally and not on chemical based photo paper, the results likely will be acceptable. What I am saying, digital printing with Photoshop or similar allows you to make adjustments to color balance and exposure beyond with you could do on an enlarger printing on color print paper. Go for it!

[glen_h]

 

(snip)

 

Also buying so much chems might be bad idea for now since I don't know how much I will use so most of it moght go to waste.

 

(snip)

 

As far as I know, the usual system for non-replenished, is three rolls (135-36) per 250ml, with increased

development time for later rolls.

 

The liquid concentrates usually store well enough in closed bottles with the air squeezed out.

 

Years ago, I did E6 with the Unicolor E6 kit, which does two rolls per 250ml.

I would wait until two rolls were ready, to mix and process them.

 

I have a powder C-41 kit that I haven't gotten to use yet.

Mostly for film sizes that labs won't do.

 

But yes, it is harder to find the non-replenish, ready to use, kits than it used to be.