Shooting film ...?

[apostolos_tournas]

<p>The best advice has already been posted more than once: take both bodies. Yet...<br>

Last summer my family and I traveled through Scandinavia, all the way up to Narvik and higher and down to Helsinki and back to Germany, on a camper. I had with me a 10MP digital and an R6.2 with the 28-90. I shot thousands on the SD's and a few rolls of E100VS and TMX. For reasons I can't fully understand, a few of the B&W shots were eventually printed poster-size--they turned out to be that good. Not a single digital deserved more than a temporary admiration.<br>

However, I'd like to point out that the feeling that I was keeping good memories from the trip was high when I was shooting digital--the instant reaction without thinking about light and exposure or composition, no shots lost, money-wise, and the like. It is also that slide films offer very narrow latitude (two stops) and you cannot cope with the contrast on sunny days; better if you try a lot of digital shots and hope for a good one.<br>

Enjoy your holidays, digital- or film-wise!</p>

[nagle]

<p>Just back from the processors and held up to a plain overcast North-of-England sky, a rich saturated 6x6 slide that turns out to be all you had hoped for when you pressed the shutter is a beautiful thing indeed.</p>

[matty_hairy]

<p>I've got a leica M4P riding shotgun next to my 40D and 5D mk1. They are a very happy group.</p>

[lobalobo]

<p>Although I shoot digital mostly (taking pictures of my kids at sporting events and parties), I shoot film also for three reasons. First, when shooting landscapes, I shoot 4x5 in an old press camera outfitted with a medium quality Fujinon 125mm lens. The camera and lens cost about $400; to replicate the images, I would have to spend more than $10,000 (even used) for a MF digital system. Don't get me wrong, if I had the money, I'd prefer the convenience and f/stop flexibility of the digital back, but I don't have the money. Second, I shoot MF film in an old Brownie in which I drilled a tripod socket. I shoot black & white, which I either process myself or send to a lab to process as positives then scan and print in 6x6 (inch) format, then mount in a 12x12 frame. The images are not sharp, but interesting, and to me part of their value is that they were taken in a 1950s plastic camera with no shutter-speed or arpeture control. Third, I shoot 4x5 pinholes, on Efke 25 film, which I process and print in a darkroom with me kids. These are the best images that I produce, by far. Here's a sample: https://www.photoshop.com/user/lobalobo . Makes me rethink the need for the $10,000 digital back. (Note I say that the pinhole images are the best that <em>I</em> can produce, not that they are objectively good--but lack of skill is another reason to buy an expensive digital back.)</p>

[Andy Collins]

<p>I'm going on vacation to NY and DC in a couple of weeks, and I'll be taking both my 30D and 1vHS. Anything worth keeping photographically is worth the effort to a) shoot digitally to process the way I want it and also b) to archive on film, mainly because I really like the way film looks and 'feels'. I enjoy shooting both equally, and I enjoy using both cameras (the 1v is my favorite camera to use, hands down). I've resigned myself to the fact that I can only travel so lightly and that all travel plans will involve taking both cameras--I may even include a much older Minolta XE-7 just for fun! Obviously I vote that you take both cameras. I think you'll be happy you did once you return home. </p>

[greg_peterson3]

<p>Most of my professional work is done on a Mamiya AFD with a digital back. But I always carry a couple of film backs to use when I intend to do very large prints. And I find myself using the film backs more frequently after having discovered Kodak Ektar 100 - an absolutely brilliant film.<br /><br>

Here's a walnut shot on Ektar 100 and scanned with a Nikon Coolscan 9000:</p><div></div>

[abrepsom1]

<p>I use a Canon 1Ds3 for wildlife and landscapes, but when I have a lot of time and inner peace, I grab my 4x5 Ebony and run (well, it takes about 15 minutes for setting up the shot, so no rush there) a few sheets of Velvia through it. The wow-effect when viewing those trannies with a good loupe on a lightbox is second to none. Plus of course the movements of the view camera offer a bit more control over DOF than a DSLR.</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>I often take a film camera with me but I find I never use it.</p>

[greg jansen]

<p>As a side note, if you do decide to bring film, take the canisters out of their boxes and put them in one of those clear plastic divided boxes. Makes it more checkpoint friendly. Ask or a hand inspection. Throw one roll of 1600 or 3200 in there so they can't say it's safe to 400 or whatever.</p>

[flatulent1]

<p>Simple, really. Let the wife shoot the 40D. Leave the 1V at home, and take the F1N for your own shooting pleasure. Best of both worlds.</p>

 

[keith_lubow]

<p>Greg,</p>

<p>Fortunately for us, those are old photographer's myths in most cases.</p>

<p>Film of any speed available to use is ABSOLUTELY FINE with <em>repeated</em> scanning by carry on baggage scanners. Even IR film.</p>

<p>Anyone's film is at more risk by being taken out in the light and rifled through by a security guard than it is being passed through the carry on scanners. You want the film to be kept out of the light more than anything, and you don't want people poking, prodding, swabbing, rifling, and possibly dropping it.</p>

<p>Checked baggage scanners will, indeed, affect the film. Anyone who claims to have had film fogged by carry on scanners <em>might</em> be correct, if the scanners used were old. It is usually in very, shall we say "budget-counscious" third-world countries that you find these still in use...but almost anywhere in Europe? No problem.</p>

[Farkle-Mpls]

<p>Wow ... thanks for your input. I've never posted a question that garnered more comments so this is obviously a topic people feel passionate about. My wife has a great little Canon P&S which she will shoot and I'll probably bring the 1v for outdoor shots and an older rangefinder for B&W shots in the twilight hours (pushed TMAX or Neopan 1600).</p>

<p>Thanks again for all the thoughtful responses!</p>

[alan_cox3]

<p>I have medium and 4x5 camera's sitting on the shelf since I finally got a (40D) digital SLR. As a backup and to get the extra resolution of the larger film I rented a 5D2 for an extended vacation (Hawaii) this year. Both DSLR's fit nicely in one bag and used the same lenses. The 5D2 also does HD video. I shot with a 17-40 on the 5D2 most of the time. Wish I could bring myself to part with film. It's great in the daylight, but not nearly as versatile as digital. I'm doing a lot more with digital now than I did with film -- and probably enjoying it more.</p>

[swilson]

<p>Why not have your wife take the 40D instead of the P&S?</p>

<p>My wife started with a film SLR then went to a digital P&S and did not have much luck or fun with it, then I got her a 20D which she takes great photos with.</p>

<p>If you are going to take the film body and lenses anyway the extra weight would only be the 20D body.</p>

 

[pmind]

<p>Bring both bodies if you can, but make sure you bring Provia 400x as well; it offers a <em>lot</em> more flexibility than the 100. To answer your original question...yes, I still take out the film cameras on a fairly regular basis; both for the love of film and the camera. After all, they still work fine, why let them collect dust?</p>

[model mayhem gallery]

<p>I still shoot film for one reason. To make my digital work "look" like film. My secrete is a program called "Exposure" by Alien Skin. I think this is one of the best Adobe Plug in made. It makes your digital shots look like film by actually recreating the grain and colors of different type of film. One og my favorites was the Neopan and Velvia 50 but there are many many more film profiles available and you can profile your own favorite films.<br>

<a href="http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/exposure_examples.aspx">http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/exposure_examples.aspx</a><br>

best program available for converting colr to Black and White and making it look just like Kodak Tri-X film.</p>

[thomas_hardy1]

<p>Take the 40D, and a more compact film camera. When I went to Europe I took a 20D, Eos 3, and at the last second put a small rangefinder in the bag. The Eos 3 just took up a lot of space.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>I shoot film regularly - both EOS bodies and FD bodies (as well as MF). That said I probably take the DSLR half the time and film the other half.</p>

[lisa_lowden]

<p>better forget the shooting slides thing now that it is going away and shoot digital or some other film format. thks, ll</p>