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Need Advice for Camera Body Upgrade


mimi_miranda

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<p>I am currently shooting with a Canon 30D and thinking of upgrading, not sure whether to go with the 40D vs 50D or even a used 5D. I plan to keep my 30D as a back up. I really don't care about the Video option on the 50D, my main concern is quality and sharpness. I mostly shoot fashion portraits but recently booked 2 weddings, so I want something that will work great for both.<br>

My equiptment..<br>

Canon 24-70 f2.8<br>

Canon 50mm f1.8<br>

Canon 28-135 IS f3.5</p>

<p>Any advice is appreciated... thanks!<br>

Ruby.</p>

 

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<p>Yes, the price dif between 40 & 50D is (IMHO at least) worth it. Not for the MP count specifically, (but it's gonna give you a much greater latitude for cropping...) plus higher ISO (despite the higher noise) is worth it because even if you don't plan on using it, with your slower lens selection you might easily find yourself needing it...</p>

<p>Still, I'd do the used 5d over the new 50D.</p>

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<p>Get the 50D over the 5D. The 5D gets you the same old tech your 30D has. If you want to upgrade get a 50D. For sure the 5D is superior camera over the 30D... but move up several years too. Don't move laterally. DSLRs are just ergonomic computers with sensors to which you can attach awesome lenses.</p>
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<p><em>I agree with Paul, Keith and Juergen.<br /> </em></p>

<p>But you said that since the 50D doesn't have video you'll look at the 5D. Well the original doesn't either. That's the 5DmkII that does. Still if it's the price your stuck with I'd still take the 5D.</p>

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<p>Another vote for the 5D MKI.<br>

<br /> Full frame will allow you a lot more lens flexibility on the wider end. Also the larger viewfinder makes the camera much more pleasant to use. I can't see the 40d of 50d making any appreciable difference in your images over the 30d. Full frame sensor is significant even if it's "older technology".</p>

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<p>Yet another vote for the 5DMkI. Excellent for events when paired with your 24-70 L lens; you will be amazed by the image qaulity and much better all around w/ full frame. If you can find a used unit with the battery grip, even better. Longer battery life and good ergo for portrait shots.</p>
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<p>Get the 5D MKI. I made the jump to it from the 40D a few months ago and was floored by the improvement in sharpness. I would have dumped the 40D wayyy earlier if I'd realized how big the difference was going to be.</p>

<p>If you're doing portraits and weddings, you really need access to excellent image quality and no-nonsense high-ISO performance, both of which you'll find in abundance with the 5D.</p>

<p>-Paul B. Davis</p>

 

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<p>Thanks Ruby for asking this question. I've been pondering the same thing myself for awhile now. I've been seeing alot of 5d mrk1s on craigslist for about the same price as the 50D. <br>

I have:<br>

17-40 L, 24-105 L and 70-200 L. I know all of you would just say why am I even thinking about this. 5D is a no brainer for the lenses I have.<br>

I've never shot with a FF before, but is the IQ really that big between 5D mrk1 and 50D? If it is..then I guess thats my answer.</p>

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<p>Luuvu: I _really_ don't like to refer people to KR, but the "Full Frame/Cropped Frame" comparisons on this page reflect my experience with the 5D MKI pretty accurately.</p>

<p>Take everything else he says with a sizable grain of salt:<br>

<a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/full-frame-advantage.htm">http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/full-frame-advantage.htm</a></p>

<p>-Paul B. Davis</p>

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<p>Hi, Ruby - There's another thing about the 5D I'd like to mention - the big, bright, full-frame viewfinder - much easier to compose with than the VFs in Canon's cropped-sensor DSLRs. Plus, the 5D's VF has life-size (1:1) magnification when using a 70mm lens - such as your 24-70 or 28-135 when either is set to 70mm - meaning you can compose and shoot with both eyes open at 70mm - what a treat!</p>
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<p><strong>Ruby:</strong> Look for the following pros and cons in no particular order:</p>

<ul>

<li>Scraping on and around the lens mount. Could be an indication a damaged lens was mounted on the body (i.e. lens screws tampered with and not properly counter sunk).</li>

<li>Excessive dust inside the pentaprism which won't affect your images. But, it will be expensive to remove the top housing to get at that dust. </li>

<li>Did the owner upgrade to the Ee grid focusing screen? A worthy upgrade. </li>

<li>Excessive paint chips and scrapes on the paint and LCD screens. </li>

<li>Wear around the tripod socket (i.e. can you still read the serial number?).</li>

<li>The only way to verify the file numbers (number of frames taken) is to take the camera into Canon. Highly unlikely the vendor will allow you to do that. The 5D's shutter is rated for 100,000 actuations. </li>

<li>Check and verify that all functions work.</li>

<li>You would need to compare two 5D's side by side with the same lens to confirm if the camera you are buying is focus-sharp. It will cost around $140 for Canon Canada to perform a focus check and adjustment.</li>

<li>Verify that there aren't any scratches to the CMOS sensor. It will cost $1000 to replace that sensor at Canon Canada.</li>

<li>Put a lens or two on the body to see that the camera will auto focus the lenses at all apertures.</li>

<li>Verify that none of the camera body screws have been tampered with.</li>

<li>Camera should come with the original charger, at least one battery, battery cover, CR2016 date/time battery, preferably the box, software disk, strap, instructions, body cap, viewfinder eyecup and cables. </li>

<li>An original bill of sale would help.</li>

</ul>

<p>A pristine camera would currently sell on Craigslist Toronto for around $1600 CAN. A scuffed up version has been advertised for $1295 CAN in a Toronto camera store in March 2009.</p>

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