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<p>I used to own a Arka-Swiss ballhead. The ultimate ballhead. Now I have a Gitzo ( with Arka-Swiss quick release ) on my Gitzo tripod, bigger then the Arka-Swiss was. The Kirk-Enterprise and the Markins M20, an exact copy of the original, very expensive Arka-Swiss. If you are in Canada, buy the Markins M20, and save some money. It is very nicely made and because an exact copy of the Arka-Swiss, it working very nicely. But, you has to handle with care, like a Swiss watch. </p>
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<p>Friends have had the BH-55 or various Arca models and followed me over to the Burzynski after we've done field trips together. Tripods: same story.</p>

<p>I maintain that the idea of a popular product by necessity is the best choice is open to question. My Sachtlers have served me well for over 20 years and the Burzynskis are on their tenth anniversary now. They'll last me a life time. Seen in that context, somewhat higher price is meaningless as a decision parameter. What professionals need from their gear is reliability.</p>

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<p>I have both the Arca Swiss (B1) and RRS (55) heads. I have not tried the Z1.<br>

My Arca Swiss locked on me in transit on trip. I was positive that I did not leave it in a tightened position during transit but who really cares? It was a pretty expensive item to fail over routine transit (simple drive to Yosemite). The solution to unlocking the older B-1 series is crazy but worked. You just keep tightening and it pops unlocked. Unfortunately then it was not as smooth again and needed servicing. Servicing took forever but it came back with some internal upgrades and has remained working perfectly for me for the past 2 years.<br>

However, while waiting for service I needed a replacement and bought the RRS 55. While pricey, I like it more and have nothing negative to say other than the neoprene case it came with then could have been designed better (case should easily make a full seal vs dust...not that anythign has gotten in to my RRS head but still on principle the case needed some minor design tweaks). I have not used Markins or Kirk. <br>

Kirk makes good stuff in general and I have not heard many negative comments on them on anything they do. However, I just have never had any problems from the folks in SLO (RRS) and keep giving them business based on that.<br>

Unfortunately it is hard to get your hands on RRS, Kirk and etc to compare. Possibly attending something like PMA works well for this but honestly ferreting out suggestions on photo.net may work well. Certainly if RRS had problems you would hear a lot of complaining on this board.<br>

As for Arca Swiss, even though both my heads are working perfectly now, I like the RRS one better. Level helps a little, quick release clap is better than screw, and it helps a little that it is slightly lower. <br>

Of note, I like this ball head end user summary: <a href="http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wonderandlight.com/essays/tripod_heads/Markins-M20-Ballhead.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wonderandlight.com/essays/tripod_heads/&usg=__XEcAOdhcq8Ckv0OpG7TbHjI3GLw=&h=368&w=327&sz=25&hl=en&start=2&tbnid=vhhrXT2AfjKX9M:&tbnh=122&tbnw=108&prev=/images%3Fq%3DMarkins%2BM20%26hl%3Den">http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wonderandlight.com/essays/tripod_heads/Markins-M20-Ballhead.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wonderandlight.com/essays/tripod_heads/&usg=__XEcAOdhcq8Ckv0OpG7TbHjI3GLw=&h=368&w=327&sz=25&hl=en&start=2&tbnid=vhhrXT2AfjKX9M:&tbnh=122&tbnw=108&prev=/images%3Fq%3DMarkins%2BM20%26hl%3Den</a></p>

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<p>I am with Lil. I have been using Markins M20 since it became available. I see no reason to switch to another. I love the small footprint. For some reason the RRS ballhead is an "in thing" at this time. Hwvr, it does not tempt me. LOL! Only one suggestion, it will be better to use an RRS clamp on it. So, if you get it, buy the version without the clamp on top.<br /><br />Yes, I load the 200-400mm with Wimberley Sidekick on it.<br /><br />Good luck with your choice,<br />Mary</p>
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<p>I would second Kent. I love the open construction of my Acratech GV2.</p>

<p>Burzynsky requires L-bracket for the camera unless you exclusively work with lenses with tripod collars. Otherwise you cannot set the camera to the portrait orientation.</p>

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<p>The Burzynski recommendation deserves a lot of warnings:<br>

1) I don't think it is sold in either Canada or the US. You will be paying a decent amount for shipping/customs and will need to ponder support issues.<br>

2) Since you are not likely shooting with a 6X6, you need to get L brackets for your bodies (unless mounting to a lens with a rotating colar).<br>

3) You will likely want to buy a panning 3rd party arca-swiss styled quick release plate to put on the head. <br>

4) I don't get why Bjorn didn't reference his own review of it (which seems very well done... <a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/burzynski.html">http://www.naturfotograf.com/burzynski.html</a> )<br>

I am not disputing that this could be the best solution out there. It's just unsupported and extremely pricey when comparing apples to apples:<br>

Ball head 360EUR (<a href="https://www.isarfoto.com/cms.php/_pid:22383,l:500,pp:1,ps:az,st:Burzynski/de/0/Produkt.html">https://www.isarfoto.com/cms.php/_pid:22383,l:500,pp:1,ps:az,st:Burzynski/de/0/Produkt.html</a> )<br>

Shipping to Canada/US 119EUR (possibly 99EUR...I don't speak German and don't want to rely on freetranslations.com to figure out the differences in the 2 shipping prices)<br>

Difference between L plate and standard plate for my camera $85USD (140USD vs 55USD using Really Right Stuff quotes for 5D mk ii)<br>

Panning Clamp $235 (quoting RRS PL-1)<br>

360EUR+119EUR+$85USD+$235USD = about $974.18USD or $1,202.59CAD (using <a href="http://www.xe.com">www.xe.com</a> for exchange rates)<br>

RRS - 55 with panning base = 455USD + 57.83 shipping (RRS was closed so I used fastest insured rate to Canada as basis...RRS did not quote online but gave link to USPS.gov). Total is $512.83USD or $632.75CAD<br>

RRS - 55 with dual pan = 575USD +57.83 (though I don't understand the need for a panning base and panning clamp and this would not be an apples to apples comparison then as the Burzynski would not have the matching base.)<br>

In any event, the Burzynski will end up costing a bit less than 2X the cost of the RRS - 55 should you wish to match functionality capabilities. I can't tell you that the Burzynski is better or worse but it certainly is not in the same ball park pricing wise if you are buying here and wishing to match panning and vertical shooting capabilities.</p>

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<p>Leonard,<br>

I've had the Markins M10 for about a year and love it. I use it on a Manfrotto tripod for my Olympus E510. My "big" lens is the 50-200mm Zuiko. Works very smoothly and stays where I put it.</p>

<p>The panning feature does have to be tighten well but it only takes a little time to get used to it. As far as locking up in cold weather, I've found the mechanism works fine in cold weather, but while composing through the viewfinder my breath would condense on the ball itself and freeze the motion a little. Just took a little back-and-forth to release it. Composing via LiveView screen doesn't cause this problem since I'm not breathing on the ballhead.</p>

<p>I especially like the small locking screw built into the main knob that allows me to easily set the release tension but doesn't present yet another knob to get confused with.</p>

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<p>If I was considering spending the money for BH-55, I would go with Arca Swiss Z1. I have used all three of the heads you mentioned and Arca Swiss is by far the best head I have ever used. None of others will maintain same tension when camera is pointed downwards. Makes for a nice smooth working head with plenty of strength to spare. I have owned a B1 for about five years now and another before that for about 2 years and never once had problem with mine, never locked up once.</p>
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<p>I have the Markins M-20 on top of a Gitzo three series carbon fiber tripod, and I love them both. I use the M-20 outdoors, in the winter, at night, in the snow, north of Plattsburgh, NY, on the shore of Lake Champlain. I have used them in the Adirondack mountains, and have taken them into creeks of the Adirondacks. No problemo. I was shooting before sunrise in the cold this morning and yesterday morning, at North Point on Point au Roche. I have had no problems at all. The M-20 is far, far more ball head strength than my current heaviest gear, D300 with 70-200mm + TC14E, and with older manual focus Nikkor combinations, such as 200mm F4 plus 2x converter (which is actually a bit of a bear because there is no lens foot -- the whole combination is cantilevered off the camera front on the ball head). <br>

I figure the M-20 has the strength to deal with much heavier gear when and if I figure out how to to afford them.<br>

I am sure the RRS and Kirk are fine products; I have plates from them, and from Wimberly too; they are all similar quality as far as plates go. I'd say pick the features that you want, and then pick the head that comes the closest. Years from now, the price will not be that much difference from one another, and you will rue not getting what you wanted. (Same theory as buying the tripod for the rest of your life.)<br>

For review of Markins heads and some comparison on a weight vs strength basis to Kirk, etc.:<br>

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/non-nikon_articles/markins/index.html<br>

For a cute video of the M-20's predecessor with a heavy weight Nikon <em><strong>800mm</strong> </em> lens in its sweet spot, scroll down to the last video on this page:<br>

http://www.markinseurope.com/en/video.php<br>

Again, I suggest getting the features you want, and, if at all possible, try to ignore the price differences.</p>

 

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<p>I have the BH-55 and am quite satisfied with it. It is as smooth as silk and I love the quick release. I had a BH 40 for lighter gear but traded it for the Kirk BH-3. the BH 40 is too low profile and sometime awkward to use for that reason. It requires an extra movement of the binder as it will not clear the tripod if in the down configuration. You almost have to use one to understand what I mean by this. Not a really big deal but is annoying sometimes.</p>
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<p>My Arca Swiss B1 locked up numerous times in the 10 years I was using it. While I was always able to unlock it, it frequently happned at the most inconvenient time and could take a little while to unlock. That was what prompted me to buy the RRS BH-55 in the first place.</p>

<p>I also talked to Joe Van Os, who owns a photo safari company that carries his name. Joe has taken his BH-55 to Antarctica some 30 times without any issues. There are a lot of scratch marks on his head due to frequent usage, though.</p>

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<p>As a Markins (M20) user, I can say that it has been a joy to use and has served me well. I find that I take most of my shots from a tripod mounted camera in all sorts of weather without a single problem. I have had a tendency to go camping over the past few years in January (don't ask) and I keep the tripod in my tent (but not in the sleeping bag!) and the cold has not had an adverse impact on its operation. I also purchased a Kirk L-Bracket (all for the D300) which make changing the orientation extremely fast.<br>

I thought about all of the options you are considering and after a lot of research and some questioning on a number of forums, I opted for the Markins. I've come to appreciate it as a fine piece of equipment.</p>

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<p>I think that the need for an L-bracket when having a Burzynski is a moot point; using ball heads with a SLR without and L-bracket is a royal PITA IMHO. The camera position changes too much when tilting, the weight distribution is bad and the room for adjustment is too limited. A decent L-bracket is a basic requirement.<br>

What I don't fully understand is that how are steep angle shots done with a Burzynski? Or do Burzynski users have some extra gear with them when they have to shoot almost directly down?</p>

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<p>A big vote the Markins M-20. In my view, you can't go wrong with it. Besides being a beautifully engineered piece of equipment, its low weight and high carrying capacity beats allcomers, including the RRS BH-55, by some margin. I use it with a Wimberley sidekick for a 500mm f4 lens on a Gitzo 1325 tripod. It works like a charm. I've owned and used an Arca Swiss B1 (ball locked up) and the Kirk BH-3 and BH-1 heads. The Kirks do the job, but the friction knob seems to have only two settings: on or off.<br>

Comments like "get the BH-55. period" are simply not helpful - I'm sure the RRS product is a good one, but once you have the Markins you won't need it. Its all the ballhead you'll ever need, and its a joy using it.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I am leaning toward the Markins M20 but I've read about the panning base not locking fully and about binding in the cold.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Binding used to be the knock on the Markins but no more, they either fixed the problem or it wasn't there in the first place. I don't use a Markins ballhead but I made sure to get everything else I could from Markins except for the legs. I have a Markins base, three Markins clamps and and a set of Markins titanium spikes on my Gitzo tripod. All the Markins stuff I have is really well engineered and the build quality is excellent. My own choice of a ballhead was based more on the ergonomics of use given a similar level of technical competence. Many ballheads are very poorly designed from an ergonomics perspective.</p>

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<p>Fred mentioned the low profile of the RSS. For me that's an advantage because it makes the camera easier to handle when the ball is loose and you're adjusting the position. But I can imagine situations where it's a disadvantage. My previous ballhead was a medium size Linhof which was higher and heavier, but I did appreciate its smoothness, better than my BH-40.</p>
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<p>I have a Kirk BH-3 that has been more than adequate with a dslr attached to a 70-200 zoom. Naturally, I use the tripod collar on the lens The BH-3 is a big savings over the BH-1. Unless you are going to be mounting a 300 or 400 mm, I would have no reservations going with the less expensive option.</p>
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<p>I've used the Kirk BH-1 and the RRS BH-55 extensively. You can't go wrong with either of these amazing products.</p>

<p>Kirk BH-1 pros: Classic deVery strong and durable. Controls are logically laid out and you can operate them easily without having to peek or grope. The tall design facilitates vertical orientation for cameras that don't have L-brackets. The BH-1 pan knob is smoother and easier to operate than the BH-55's pan knob.</p>

<p>Kirk BH-1 cons: Adjustment is slightly more "floppy" than with the BH-55. The tension contol is touchy.</p>

<p>BH-55 pros: The large knob is easy to grasp and operate. The low profile head is good for heavier cameras. Very strong and durable. Satin-smooth movement. Not nearly as heavy as it's size would suggest.</p>

<p>BH-55 cons: Shorter design requires L-brackets for vertical orientation of the camera. The pan knob can "stick" and require a lot of strength to loosen. Some of the clamps won't support non-RRS plates. (I use the simplest (screw) clamp).</p>

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