High Grain Films???

[nathan_tribble]

<p>Hi<br>

i was wondering if anyone could recommend any 35mm B+W film with lots of grain.<br>

Thanks </p>

 

[William Kahn]

<p>How about Kodak Tri-X?</p>

[dweezil]

<p>Ilford Delta 3200 in rodinal</p>

 

[rjjackson]

<p>lots?<br>

for big grain, as william says, try tri-x at 1200 in rodinol (don't over agitate). it will give you profound and graceful grain. consider also kodak p3200 at 3200 or neopan 1600 ( i shoot it at 1250). i usually develop these in microphen but you'll get big grain and high contrast in id-11 or rodinol. also consider fomapan 400 shot at 800, it has a special look.</p>

<p> </p>

[dweezil]

<p>sorry double post due to lagg.</p>

[todd_niccole]

<p>Rollei R3 in HC-110 dil. B has huge grain.</p>

[jim_appleyard]

<p>Yup, Delta or T-Max 3200 in an accutance dev such as Rodinal. You might also look into infrared films. They usually have plenty of grain.</p>

[brucecahn]

<p>Rollei R3 has the most beautiful large grain I have seen, T-Max 3200 is nice too. </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>It used to be simple, since the highest speed films were pretty much also high grain. Nowadays, you need to process the film to increase the grain, along the lines mentioned above.<br>

You can also increase grain or the effect of grain by increasing soaking time, or resoaking the film after processing, rewashing the film, or increasing reticulation by sudden changes in temperature in processing.</p>

[Paul Lewis1664881697]

<p>I agree.... T-Max 3200</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Foma 400 developed in just about anything. It's grainy. It's not too fast, and does well rated anywhere from 250 to 320 depending on the light. Looks like a real "old school" B&W film. Nice tonality once you learn to treat it right. I like it in dilute XTOL, which actually tones down the grain somewhat more than D-76. It is still grainy. Want even more grain? Frame loosely and crop agressively. If you're in the US, get it from Freestyle under the Arista.EDU Ultra label. Very inexpensive that way.</p>

<p>Tri-X doesn't really qualify as a high grain film anymore. You can push the crap out of it to make the grain more apparent, but you're also driving the contrast through the roof. Terrible if you want to scan the negatives. Not good if you want to print conventionally.</p>

[jim_appleyard]

<p>You can also shoot with a wide-angle lens and crop the hell out of the print, makes for large grain.<br>

IIRC, Sunpak made a gizmo the inserted into the film get and acted like a grain filter. Probably now an ebay item.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Tri-X in Acufine 1-1 pushed to 3200 or more and it will still hold shadows to some extent...</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3041/3112846929_2ae79dba79_o.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="947" /></p>

[jim_appleyard]

<p>Larry, didn't your wife ask you to put the seat DOWN?</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>LOL I live alone.</p>

[jim_appleyard]

<p>Lucky you!</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>The previous generation of T-Max 400, normally exposed and developed in Rodinal, had a unique sharp salt and pepper grain structure without resorting to pushing and consequent loss of shadow detail and contrast problems. The grain was particularly noticeable in same/similar tone areas such as skies and skin. Not sure whether the current version of TMY in Rodinal would produce the same effect.</p>

[briangrossman]

<p>fomapan 400 @EI 320 in rodinol</p>