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new to 4x5 processing


bennie_nickolas_hinojos

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<p>I was wondering what other people have used to develope 4x5 black and white negs? I was going to just use the tray method since I am not going to be taking that many pictures at any given moment. But I know that you can only do one at a time, until you get really good with trays and then you are able to add more negs. But i saw some other forms of developing that I just don't know about? I am really new to large format and I am just finding it hard to convert from roll to sheet film. But I love the camera and the quality of print it can produce. So just wanted to know what are some of the other peoples experience with the many other types of developing devices. Also some look foreign to me so I am not even sure what are the different steps to loading the undeveloped film? Thanks everyone for lending me some of your experience and knowledge.</p>

 

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<p>I've used the 12 sheet Yankee-type tanks for years. They're great. They don't hold enough developer for a full 12 sheets, so I put no more than 10 at a time. I tend to collect my personal 4x5 work until I have enough to process 10 at a time.</p>
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<p>You can do more than one sheet of 4x5 in trays at the same time; get a copy of <em>The Negative</em> by Ansel Adams & Robert Baker for complete instructions in performing this properly. It does, however, increase your risk of scratches, etc. if not performed absolutely correctly--or in the case of accident.<br>

However, the best way to do your own 4x5 is with a JOBO unit and a 3010 expert drum. That's also the most expensive method, unfortunately.<br>

I currently use an HP Combiplan T for B&W 4x5. It works well enough. It will do six sheets at once, but it's suggested that you do no more than four at a time for best quality. The advantage over trays is that it reduces the risk of scratches and, even more importantly, you can do it in daylight once you load the film.<br>

They run about $85 at B&H.</p>

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<p>Bennie -<br>

Developing sheets in trays is a great way to start, and some folks choose to stick with it.<br>

There are problems with all methods. Tray processing tends to lead to scratches. Jobo systems are expensive. Yankee Tanks (if you can find them) are not cheap, are prone to leaking (you can't invert them link you do ordinary roll-film tanks), and some users report problems with inconsistent development. ComboPlan tanks have similar problems. So it really comes down to choosing an approach that you are comfortable with and then perfecting the way you use it.<br>

I use a slosher in an open tray. That's frame that fits within an 11x14 tray and that holds six sheets of film, each emulsion-side up in an individual compartment. I made my own from plexiglass but there is at least one commercial model on the market - I think it's available at Porter's Camera Store. There are pictures of mine on both the Large Format Forum and APUG - I have a dimensioned drawing if you want to try to build one. The advantage of a slosher is that there is essentially zero risk of scratching. On the negative side, the entire development process, from presoak (if you use one) to fixing must be done in total darkness and requires a set of 11x14 trays.</p>

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<p>I tried the Yankee 4x5 tank and got good results; however, they use way too much chemical.<br>

The price of the Jobo drums etc put me off.</p>

<p>So, I found a Unicolor drum and motor base for < $20. They were made for developing color prints but work just as well for sheet film.<br>

Here's a whole page dedicated to this method...<br>

<a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/">http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/</a></p>

<p>It can do 4 4x5 sheets at a time and I only 200ml of solutions as opposed to the 1650ml for the Yankee tank.<br>

I have good results with the Unicolor tank and motor.</p>

<p>good luck</p>

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<p>I have used the Yankee tanks for years. Had no problem with developement. The one thing to watch for , when you invert it to empty the tank. Hold the lid on! I feel that Martin's ideal of using a drum roller is a good one. A person could use it without the motor, too. Will probably use that method if I ever get above 4x5.<br>

The slosher method tray that Louie mentions is sold by Photographer's formulary</p>

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yeah i just found a tray insert that holds 6 negs and has raised portions to hold the negs in their respected areas to prevent from scratching each other. You just merely insert it into another tray with your chemicals. I think I might like this method. I would be able to develop more than oen sheet at a time, without having the rookie mistake of constanting scratching the neg. The only thing is, it is rather expensive for what it is. Simple injection molded tray with holes cut out....lol And they want 60 bucks for something that costs pennys to make. How wonderful....I am sure I will be able to find a way of producing my own? Maybe stainless steel would be better? Easier to shape and form what I want and rather easy for me to get.
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<p>I process up to 12 sheets at a time in a CombiPlan Tank with no issues what-so-ever. You can do an online search and find the report out of Univ Minn I think. Basically you place nylon window screen cut 2 mm on each edge, place the window screen between the back to back sheets and fit two sheets in each of the six slots through the loading guides, rather than one emulsion out sheet in each of the six slots. The 12 count also works great because my Calumet 4x5 film holder packs holds 6 holders = 12 sheets. Just don't push the locking place clip too far down. I've read the instructions about the recommended 4 sheets at a time, forget that.<br>

Get your self 3 tanks (one with drain spout on bottom for Fix / Wash / Archival Wash / PhotoFlo and two lids, omne for Devv and (one with drain spout on top) for Fix / Wash / Archival Wash / PhotoFlo tack lid.<br>

Devv tank and lid, Stop tank only, Fix tank and lid</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I have the HP Combi tank, which is a plastic tank with holder that goes inside that holds the sheets of film. Once you load it in the dark and put the top on, you pour chemicals in and out in the light much like a regular 35mm or 120 developing tank. But I think I prefer stainless steel flm hangers that you move from a developing tank to stop tank to fixer tank. That's the more traditional approach. Either way works. I would only do sheets in a tray (like developing prints) if I was only ever going to have to do it once or twice or couldn't afford a set of hangers and tanks.</p>
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<p>I dearly wish I could offer my method for the past 10 years...Polaroid Type 55 P/N...Im down to my last five boxes...with no replacement product in sight...Im experimenting now with paper negs...I think this my new direction..and have seen some amazing results of scanned and even enlarged 4x5 paper negs....good luck I never enjoyed developing 4x5 negs...but printing them now thats a different story. </p>
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<p>I've tried several different methods, including the Yankee tank, Nikkor, Jobo, etc., and I prefer to use trays. Once you get the technique down, the chance of scratches is very low, and for me it results in the most even and consistent development. You also have ultimate control over agitation and time for controlling development.</p>
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<p>I, too, just began shooting 4x5 a year ago and went down the same road searching for options. Trays are just so inexpensive to try... why not? I went out and shot some very mundane stuff in the yard just to have something to develop. Then I went into the darkroom (back bathroom) and gave it a shot. Voila! Worked like a champ. I did 2 negs together the first time. I did 6 together the next time. No problems, no scratches. </p>

<p>I only do trays now. It is so easy. It really is. The key is consistency. I'm sure I do everything wrong, but so long as I continue to do the same wrong steps I'll get the same results. I have never botched a sheet of film yet in the developing process. I do all of my botching in-camera.</p>

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<p>I use trays too. Low-tech, cheap, flexible and portable (I take mine on trips and have darkrooms in both USA and Europe). Tray processing does, however, require some skill and dexterity. </p>

<p>There are many methods to choose from for tray processing. The Adams book is a good place to start. Also search my posts here, on APUG (http://www.apug.org/forums/home.php) and on the Large Format Photography Forum (www.largeformatphotography.info/forum). One one of these I have recently posted a detailed description of my tray-processing technique. </p>

<p>Hope this helps,</p>

<p>Doremus Scudder</p>

 

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<p>Jeez, everytime I read a similar thread, I wonder if I'm the last guy on the planet using Kodak rubber tanks and stainless steel hangers. My results are always excellent, never scratched, I can do 8 negs at a time easily, and I just can't see why anyone would spend hundreds of dollars for expensive (and leaky?) Jobo systems just to be able to save a few pennies on chemicals. Any thoughts out there?</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...
<p>I have been using the trays for starters and I have had some good luck with that. I think that my problem right now is being more consistent with my neg density with this diffferent style camera. I see that I am not adjusting too well for bellows extensions and I have to get a little more accurate with my light readings and just taking my time and really slowing everything down. I am not use to that yet, but the trays I am enjoying just takes so long to process while doing them at a school facility</p>
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