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14 year old Tri-X Pan - still good?


derek_kennedy

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<p>At the local photography store and as a joke I asked him if he had any 100 ft rools of film and in stead of laughing at me like has been lately - he said yes. Two cans of 100ft Tri-X Pan, expired in 97, but purchased by the store in 1995 but frozen since it was purchased.</p>

<p>It <em>should</em> still be good eh? He only charged me $15 instead of the $50 originally asked for.</p>

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<p>For $15 it's worth a shot. FWIW, someone once gave me a couple of rolls of Tri-X that were about 10 years past date. I have no idea how the film was stored. Considering the source, I'm pretty sure it was squirreled away in the back of the socks and underware drawer and not kept cold. There was quite a bit of fog, and naturally some loss of speed. Not terrible if you can live with that.</p>
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<p>You should have no trouble with outdated Tri-X Pan that was stored in a freezer Derek. At $15 a roll, you got yourself a bargain. <br>

When you go to bulk load your cassettes, try and do all of them at once or within a day or two, then keep the films in the freezer or the refrigerator at least. I bought some Kodak pro packs of Tri-X (2 boxes of 50 rolls - 36 exp) that had an expiry date around 1997 or 1998. I keep them cool until I need to use them, and I have had no trouble with them. I often use D-76 (1:1) or sometimes HC-110 to process it. One thing to remember if you keep it frozen, give the rolls time to adjust to room temperature before attempting to load your camera and shoot it.</p>

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<p>Thanks Mike - and he has a second 100ft roll for me at the same price if I wanted it. I didnt take it as I wasnt sure if they were any good yet.</p>

<p>You make a few great points such as doing several cassettes at once and keeping them frozen, I will do that. I too will be using D76 as I have plenty now that I just got a shipment of chemicals today.</p>

<p>Jim: Another good point. I did the same thing with a older roll of T-Max 100 - I just loaded a 12 exposure for the first roll as a test. No point in shooting a roll of 36 just to find out the film wasnt any good.</p>

<p>Thanks again everyone.</p>

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<p>Derek- also keep in mind if you compare your results to fresh Tri-X that some changes were made to Tri-X a few years back. Some like the changes, others liked it the way it was. My own experience has been that the new Tri-X does have finer grain. I also like the look of it better. If you're curious, check the archives to read about other members' opinions on the subject since my opinion is just one of many. If you prefer the look of older Tri-X and your film comes out okay, then you got a good bargain. Good luck with your test.</p>
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<p>I sort of did it the other way around. Exposed a fresh load Tri-X from bulk<br>

loader, but lost cassette in freezer for about 15 years. Developed and<br>

printed, latent image came up fine, prints a tad foggy and grainy, but<br>

useable. Good luck with yours.<br>

/Clay</p>

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<p>The name of the game is to avoid having to develop it to an extent whereby base fog increases appreciably. You can partially avoid this by giving more exposure (which imparts density quicker than base density). In effect, it is a race between getting ample pictorial density BEFORE the base has a chance to make inroads. Try 3 to 4 stops and do not develop more than normal Tri-X. Try clip tests in a small amount of dev. - David Lyga.</p>
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  • 1 month later...

<p>Thanks Dennis.</p>

<p>I too paid little for the 100' roll. WIth your results and Gregs, I'm feeling more confident that I should be ok.</p>

<p>If its too fogged, well: I only paid $15! Who koiws, with a little fogging maybe the film will look like it was much much older - might be a pleasant result. I'm still waiting for the snow to melt before I thaw it enough to make a couple test rolls.</p>

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  • 7 months later...

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