TXP 220 developing problem

[michael_hintlian1]

I have been having trouble developing TXP 220. It appears there

are edge bubbles on the film, a kind of unevenness that looks

like bubbles. I have stopped using the 4 reel tank and converted

to a 2 reel tank (2 - 220 reels), I have tried adding a drop of

photo-flo to the developer, I have increased the amount of

agitation (I bang the bottom of the tank constantly), I have lit

candles and incence, and still bubbles on the edges.

 

The developer is D-76 replenished (I have another problem with

D-76R that I will present later), I want to lick this problem before I

shoot any more film, its making me crazy.

 

Any and all help would be great.

 

Namaste,

 

MH

[john_hicks___]

Steel or plastic reels?

[ruby_trubin]

I too, have what I think are the same type of bubbles which end

up as dark marks on prints (light ones on negs). Mine are with

120 and the film does not seem to be the issue - I have got the

marks with several different types. I use jobo tanks and the

plastic reels and I am fairly certain it's the reels. The bubbles are

all on one side only which is also bizzare. They are most

noticable on areas of continuous tone - sky usually.

Two days ago I conferred with a friend and he also has the same

bubbles. He doesn't seem to get them now though. He was

using TMY or TMX and I used Acros, Agfapan 100/400 (these are

the films with the bubbles). He reckons agitating in a random

manner might help - but I'm not so sure. With the plastic reels

and 120 (220 I suspect as well) the image is actually in contact

with the plastic so maybe it's the contact making the bubbles. I

am getting this effect almost constantly now but I used to get it

less often. Maybe it's chemical contamination?

What seems to be the easiest way to solve this problem

probably is to change to metal reels, as they do not inhibit the

flow of chemical solution around the negative.

Also I might also add that my friend also does a presoak now -

this might help???

Sorry - only more questions

[pat_krentz]

A presoak with VIGORIUS? agitation for the first 30 seconds and each minute thereafer for 15 seconds for 5 minutes. Pat

[chris_eve]

I'm wondering if there's a possibility of contamination of some sort, not necessarily chemical, within the spiral grooves, which is trapping the air. Maybe a smear of grease that would be relieved by a good scrub in soap and water?

[michael_hintlian1]

Thanks to all. Of course I didn't post the total practice I have

around processing this film, my omission so here it is.

 

1.) Using Hewes 220 stainless reels (also have tried cheap 220

"Calumet" brand stainless and Paterson plastic...it seems to

make little difference, the bubbles still appear).

 

2.) Always presoak for 90 seconds, then vigorous agitation for

the first 30 seconds then three inversions every minute

thereafter. Tapping tank after each inversion.

 

3.) My lab is impeccable, the reels are always washed and hand

dried with terrycloth toweling (I don't dry the towels with one of

those anti static things...they have a wax substance and could

transfer onto the reels). So I really doubt contamination as an

issue. Oh, and I'm processing as much as 50 rolls of 35mm per

week in the same lab using the same process proceedures.

Which really adds to the puzzlement.

 

Another thing I have tried is longer development vs. shorter.

HC-110 which is wonderful with this film provides a very short

development time (around 6 minutes if I remember), I thought

this may be an issue so I went to D-76 replenished which is

around 8 minutes, still bubbles...so I tried D-76 1:1 for 11

minutes and bubbles still show up. So the longer development

times don't seem to support the bubbles leaving.

 

If I've missed anything by way of detail, please let me know. I'd

love to solve this issue.

 

Peace,

 

MH

[john_hicks___]

Do the half-full tank method. Put a loaded reel on the bottom, an empty spacer reel on top, and use only enough solution to cover the bottom reel. Give the usual bangs and inversions for the first 30 seconds, then two inversions every 30 seconds. Do _not_ be gentle.

 

You can do one reel in a two-reel tank, three in a four-reel tank etc.

 

If you still get what appears to be edge bubbles with this method then there's something else going on besides the reels or how you're handling the tank.

[michael_hintlian1]

John...

 

Sounds like a plan. I'll give it a shot this week...3 loaded reels

and a blank on top in a 4 reel tank. Really appreciate the

technology....many thanks.

 

Good negatives.

 

MH

[ruby_trubin]

This is interesting alright,.. and with metal reels too... shoot, that puts my theory (developer stuck in the grooves of plastic reels) out of the window. But, what is the point of the 'half tank' method. Is it to ensure fresh developer circulates? Does anyone have an idea of what these bubble-like are?

[john_hicks___]

> Sounds like a plan.

 

I got that from Mike Johnston several years ago; I have no idea where he came across it. I wasn't having bubble trouble but was having a problem with some unevenness. What I thought was sufficient agitation in fact wasn't.

 

> But, what is the point of the 'half tank' method. Is it to ensure fresh developer circulates?

 

When you invert a full tank you're inverting a cylinder filled with baffles (the film itself) and, as expected from that viewpoint, the baffles do their job and the liquid doesn't move much in relation to the baffle surfaces, the tank walls etc. Therefore you move the tank, reels, film _and liquid_ as one unit.

 

And that's not what we want.

 

When the tank is only half-full and you invert it, it's the same as if you raise the reel out of the liquid and then plunge it back it. It's definitely agitated, no doubt about it. This of course would also sweep away bubbles stuck to the spiral.

 

I never encountered any problems that could be attributed to the half-full-tank method. Many people said (some rather strongly) that it would cause swirls, streaks, sprocket-hole streaks with 35mm film, unevenness and acne but my eyeballs showed differently and I don't recall that any of those people had ever actually tried it.

 

One developer foamed madly (AB-55) but a little LFN cured that right up.

 

All I can say is that it works great for me.

[john_hicks___]

> 3 loaded reels and a blank on top in a 4 reel tank

 

I want to clarify; only enough solutions to cover the loaded reels. For my steel 120 reels that's only 40 ounces for three reels but your mileage may vary.

[nicholas_t.]

So far, so good - no bubble trouble this batch.

Two rolls down, will report back next week after more rolls done.

[Bill Bowes]

Hello everyone. Might I suggest you put an empty reel on the bottom, your two loaded reels above that and put another empty reel on the top. Determine the amount of developer your two rolls of film require and put this into the total amount of water needed for the four roll tank. Use a 2 or 3 minute presoak. If you want to stay with the D-76, I would mix it up as a one shot affair (why have a problem with the replenishment). If you want to be brave, try PMK-Pyro!!! Enjoy, Bill

[Bill Bowes]

Another thought: I am not in a rush to get my film developed, so will only do one roll at a time. I do shoot 220 at times and use PVC pipe spacers to keep the one roll in the middle of the 2 reel tank (same for 35mm in a 450ml tank). These spacers basically keep the reels from clattering around. Bill