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100mm Shooting Distance for Portraits


35mmdelux

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<p>It's possible you could get some distortion, as it is the equivalent of roughly a 50mm lens if you were shooting a 35mm camera. I doubt you'll be able to do a head shot because it probably won't let you get that close, which may eliminate the big nose syndrome. This is the basic problem w/ all of my MF cameras. The close focus distance isn't that close. I do better w/ my Leica 35mm gear for portraits, and an Elmar C or Rokkor 90 make great portrait lenses (although the Elmar and Rokkor need some unsharpening because they're a little too sharp).</p>
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<p>You will get a little distortion if you fill the 6x6 frame using the 100. To avoid that just back up 1 or 2 steps and crop the neg. The lens is sharp enough that when using 100/125 speed film you can't tell the difference. The 150 with a 21 tube would be the prefered setup for "face" shots, the 180 is excellant also. I've used the 120 macro for portraits but always with a Softar, the lens is just too sharp and the 100 is even sharper. It doesn't matter how perfect the complexion these lenses will show every little thing in great detail.</p>
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<p>It is the distance, not the focal length, which determines the amount of perspective distortion in the subject. Conventional thinking would want a distance of about 5 feet.</p>

<p>A CF100 will focus close enough to cover a 15 inch square, which is perhaps a little larger than the area of an head shot. However the focusing distance is under three feet which will result in unpleasant (IMO) distortion of facial features. A 150mm covers about the same area but at a further distance, as would a 180mm lens. Either the 150 or 180 would provide suitable perspective.</p>

<p>Refer to (<a href="http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/b257f2b0-cd24-497b-b21f-47dcf6ee295a-Closeup.pdf">http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/b257f2b0-cd24-497b-b21f-47dcf6ee295a-Closeup.pdf</a>) for further information on closeups with Hasselblad "V" lenses.</p>

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