bill_jones17 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>Hi, I used the new TMax 400 film for the first time and after I developed it, the negatives seem lighter than any of my negatives using the old style TMax 400 film. Is this normal? The detail looks pretty good they just seem a bit light to me. I developed them for 7 1/2 min at 68F in D76.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>The development time sound good. When you say they look light do you mean the negative itself or the scan/print? At what ISO did you expose it at.? I've found the New Tmax 400 to be a true 400 speed film in Tmax developer and in D76.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>No, the density range of TMY2 is pretty normal.</p> <p>Ummm, this is <em>undiluted</em> D76 for 7.5 minutes right? Maybe the solution's gone off.</p> <p>I developed Tri-X and TMY2 in the same tank a few times, Xtol 1:1, 9.5 minutes at 20degC. If anything, the TMY2 was a bit denser for about the same in camera exposure.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt1 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>That's been my experience developing them together in the same tank with HC110.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_jones17 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>I mean the negatives themselves look lighter, I used straight D76, and I mixed that batch yesterday, also I exposed at ISO 400</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>No, I haven't found that TMY-2 negatives are less dense than films of comparable speed. It's possible that your D-76 has gone off a bit. You don't mention its age, nor its storage conditions. What's equally likely is that your processing temperatures are lower than you think. Thermomters can be notoriously inaccurate, and don't forget that the developer can loose a degree or so of heat merely by pouring it from the holding vessel to the developing tank. If the developing tank is colder than the processing temperature, that is surely the case. I like to temper the tank in the same tempering bath that I use for the chemistry to minimize the problem. A plastic tank will float in the bath and you don't want that. Weight it down with something (I use 1/2 paving brick that I had laying around) to prevent that.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <blockquote> <p>I mean the negatives themselves look lighter ...</p> </blockquote> <p>Right, I know what you mean, but correctly developed TMY negative basically looks like any other B&W film - density ranges from transparent base to completely opaque black.</p> <p>The one time that I got a set of very light negatives back was due to my screwup. I had somehow used only enough Xtol for a two reels in a four reel tank.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_jones17 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>If I shot at like 200 ISO would that darken the negatives?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_jones17 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 <p>Could fixer contaminating the D76 cause this? It is possble some residual fixer may have gotten into the developer.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams_gallery Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 <p>I checked the data sheet for you and your time is actually a minute longer than recommended, so if anything correctly exposed negatives, all other factors normal should have produced more than sufficiently developed negatives. Since you were using fresh D-76 and assuming the time and temps were correct, my guess would be an error in-camera, like maybe you forgot to factor a color filter in, or maybe thought you were at 400 and were at 800 or 1600? Just ideas. Here's the link to that data sheet:<br> <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf">http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willscarlett Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 <p>Matthew, I looked at the data sheet you linked to and I think when you referenced 7.5 minutes being one minute too long, you were in fact looking at the time for T-Max 100 in undiluted D-76 at 68F. That same chart lists 8 minutes for TMY in undiluted D-76 at 68F. Of course, all of the times on that chart Kodak lists as "starting times."</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony_ilardi Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 <p>The correct chart for TMY-2 is Kodak datasheet F-4043, not F-4016, as listed above. F-4016 gives Kodak's recommendations for the old TMY. F-4043 shows you used Kodak's recommended time for TMY-2 in D76 at full strength. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_albertson1 Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 <p>And remember to print those negatives before deciding to change your development time. Don't just go by how the negs look...a lot of people did that when the TMax films first came out.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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