TMY-2, best at 800?

[yog_sothoth]

<p>So, shot a lot fo TMY-2 at 400 developed in stock Xtol, and it seemed to be low contast. At 800 it looked very nice with overcast lighting. Has anyone figured out the "true" ISO of TMY-2? I am using it as if it were 800 for normal contrast, 400 for low contrast, and 1600 for high contrast. Does this work for other people?</p>

[jim_norman2]

<p>XTOL works better diluted, usually 1+2 or 1+3. XTOL tends to deliver true box speed with most films. Pushing generally increases contrast. It's a great film/developer combination. Do a little testing with your time. I suspect with a little work you'll be able to get whatever contrast you want at anything between 400 and 1600.</p>

[yog_sothoth]

<p>I like my solvent developers at full strength. For solvent-free developing I use Rodinal. </p>

<p>I ordered up another batch of TMY-2 for experiments. I will see what I can make of it.</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>I haven't had any problems with TMY-2 at box speed using Kodak's recommended development times and temperatures. Contrast is good, and the negatives print well on grades 2 to 3, dependent upon how I want the print to look and the ambient lighting conditions present at exposure time. Either XTOL or D-76 work very well with this film. If you are getting really low contrast negatives at box speed, something might be up with the processing. Temperature too low, insufficient agitation, not enough time, or partially exhausted developer are all contributing factors. </p>

[leicaglow]

<p>I find the rating very accurate and contrast to be perfect with Xtol. Diluting the developer is not going to help contrast though. What strength and time are you using Stephen? Even though it's not high enough contrast for your liking, are the edge numbers properly developed? Maybe you're not developing long enough?</p>

[stephen sullivan]

<p>For me I've been shooting TMY-2 @ 640 EI. The labs soups it in D-76 1:1 @ 20c for Kodak's suggested time for normal processing. {Example for me: I rate at EI 640 and bracket - / + 1/3 from Normal. EI 640 generally wins out, with a few EI 500s}</p>

<p>At EI 400 the grain really started to pop and over all the film looked over exposed.</p>

[rick_jones5]

<p>Once I decide on the development time for a particular scene I pick an E.I. which will produce the level of shadow detail needed. High contrast scene - less developmet with lower E.I. Low contrast scene - longer development with higher E.I. While my system is the polar opposite of what you are doing the bottom line is if you are getting pleasing results why change anything? However, your post indicates you are trying to control contrast by changing the films E.I. I would at least suggest you try exposing the film very close to box speed (or slightly less) and adjust contrast with changes in development time. TMY-2 and Xtol should give you a huge variety of contrast options - just keep very close control over time, temperature and agitation. As to the true ISO of TMY-2 that's easy - it's 400 because the rating police make it very difficult for manufacturers to fudge their numbers. The kicker - different developers and developing times, light meters and a host of other variables make adjustments to the ISO a necessity if you're trying to squeeze the most out of a film (I mean quality NOT speed).</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Sounds like you've rediscovered a rough approximation of the Zone System. Depending on conditions - tonal range of the subject, illumination, contrast - more or less exposure than the nominal speed may be appropriate. And depending on the desired effect, more or less development to suit may be appropriate.</p>

<p>It doesn't change the film's actual ISO, which is determined per ISO standards. Even with different developers the true speed is unlikely to change as much as a full EV, and probably no more than 1/3 to 2/3 EV in either direction.</p>

<p>But if the subject has nothing below Zone III, it's moot. Adjusting the exposure and development to your liking is all that matters.</p>

[terry_m1]

<p>Below is an image of Calvin Klein model Gabriel Aubry that I captured late last year in a store with my Leica M6 TTL and 90mm APO/ASPH Summicron lens on the newish T-Max 400. The Ilford RC glossy print shows no grain because it was produced after processing the T-Max in undiluted ID-11 for 6:15 minutes at 73 degrees. Behind Gabriel is a gigantic flat sheet of textured glass.</p><div></div>

[yog_sothoth]

<p>I have been using the "Zone system for dummies" method of contrast tuning for a while. It is extremely convenient. Pushing the film on dim cloudy days and pulling film in direct sunlight is much better than the other way around.</p>

<p>I like the tonality and punch of TMY-2 at 800 more than at 400, so I suppose that is a preference. I was curious if others were doing the same.</p>

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