Eyepiece diopter for D300

[martin_aspeli]

<p>Hi,<br>

My right eye is about -3.5 (i.e. I'm nearsighted and that's how strong my spectacles are). I rarely wear contact lenses, but they are in fact slightly stronger, at -3.75 (I got them measured at the same time that I got new glasses, so I assume it's just a consequence of the distance between the eye and the actual lens in the specs). Or maybe I got that the wrong way around. But anyway...<br>

The eyepiece diopter on my D300 will only go down to -2. I generally use glasses, and it's fine, but I think if I could get my eye closer to the viewfinder, I'd find it easier to use the information in the bottom of the viewfinder and block out more light.<br>

So, should I buy a diopter? I can't find much information about them, or the best place to buy them. Do I need to get, e.g., a -3, fit it over my existing eyepiece and then adjust it down to -1.5 (so -1.5 + -2 = -3.5)? Or do I need to buy an exact -3.5?<br>

Cheers,<br>

Martin</p>

[john_stockdale2]

<p>You should buy a diopter.</p>

<p>The precise diopter value that you need is close to your eyeglass prescription, but might be a little either way. It is stated on some camera websites that the diopter value you need is what you would need to view (not through the camera) an object around 1m or sometimes 0.67m.</p>

<p>Nikon eyepiece diopters are available in 1 diopter increments. I would guess that since you have 0 to -2 adjustable in the camera viewfinder, an add-on diopter of -2 would give you any negative value to -4 which should cover it.</p>

<p>However, the values printed on Nikon diopters are for the combination of the value of the diopter COMBINED WITH the diopter of the optical viewfinder system which is stated to be -1. So, the Nikon diopter marked -2 is actually a -1 piece of glass. I think you need a -2 piece of glass, so Nikon's add-on diopter that you need is -3. This is explained in a Nikon pdf:</p>

<p>http://www.nikonusa.com/fileuploads/pdfs/EP_CompChart.pdf</p>

<p>If I am wrong and the -3 diopter is a -3 piece of glass, then you're still ok, since the adjustment in the camera will cover the range you need.</p>

<p>Let us know how you go.</p>

[steven_p]

<p>Your contact lens might be .25 stronger to correct for slight astigmatism. A correction of -3.50/-0.50@ axis 90 for example, adding a quarter diopter to the spherical correction is common. Toric contacts generally only start at .75 diopter to correct for astigmatism.</p>

<p>If your right eye is a -3.50 diopter spherical correction, then your contact lens is possibly too strong. Generally the closer the lens is to the eye, (in minus powers) less correction is needed.</p>

[dcphotography]

<p>Yep, get a diopter. I have a -3 one, and it works perfectly. I think I'll need -4 soon though, maybe. It also acts as a viewfinder protector... from dust, oil, etc..</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>I use a -5 (eyesight is actually about -4.5) on my D200, and it's really comfortable to shoot that way.</p>

[blumesan]

<p>Getting a diopter is one solution but it comes with an added problem. What do you do when you want to look at some setting on the camera, LCD or other setting? You will need to then put on your glasses or hold the camera up to your nose. I found that repeatedly putting on glasses to look at camera settings and taking them off to see through the viewfinder was a pita. One solution: get a diopter for the viewfinder and get a pair of glasses with a corrective lens in just one eye (the one you don't use for the viewfinder).</p>

[john_stockdale2]

<p>Mike's idea has merit. I am short sighted (-1.5) and old (62) so I don't have much eye focusing range. I was incensed that in my new car, some controls (heater, sound system) can't be set by feel but must be looked at (menu system etc). My solution is to have some eyeglasses made that are wide enough for safe driving but small in the vertical dimension. So now I can see the controls by looking under the glass. Similar to bifocals but simpler. I'm not old enough for bifocals.</p>