steven_p

I have used both 70-300, af-s and af-p lenses. The FX p model is very good, but it is non-functional on a lot of older Nikons. It will work on a 2007, 12mp D300, but not a D3200, D5200/24mp body. There is also a lot of poly carb in the lens makeup of the P lens. I honestly dislike it because it feels so light & cheap. It is like a giant 18-55 with a metal lens mount. Optics and focus speed make the af-p FX imo the better choice.

I have to walk that one back. The streetwalker pack was flimsy and a pain. I later realized that I have a couple ThinkTank, holsters, for pro bodies. They are excellent.

If the thinktanks’ you mentioned are anything like their streetwalker bags, I would stay away from those, as far possible.

I have the oldest version of a Nikon 500/f4. With age and health, I need a bit of help carrying this beautiful bugger. There is the Tamrac 5793 and the Lowepro 600aw, ( and possibly more.) Which is better or are they a waste of effort? A somewhat comfortable pack allows a free hand to schlep a set of monster legs. Thank you, in advance.

I have used the original BR2 on film and digital bodies and have yet to damage any of the camera body connection pins. I sometimes use a Vivitar bellows, full rig, PB5, look-a-like. It has a convertible copy stand and attachments for slide and 35mm roll copying. (If you would like to see maximum coverage and larger than 1:1, a 24mm, reversed is difficult, but doable.)

My old Ai'd 24mm NC, has been in my MF bag for many, many years. I've had the 2.8D version also, but is rarely used.. The NC 24 always produced good IQ. Banking on a slight improvement, I purchased the "Last Revision, Ai version, which so far has me scratching my head. It isn't near as good in many circumstances. My informal sharpness test involves focusing on a pill bottle at 10-20 feet. My test target had a blue cast stage light with a 6 watt LED bulb and a blue gel (night light) along with ample natural light. The multicoating on the newer 24 and several others that seem to have similar coating cause a distorted blue glow, and shows much less sharpness and contrast. The old 24 handles blue light, fine. Outdoors the corners are better on the older lens, also. My old 24 is dry and screeches when focused, and I thought a pretty all black version would be an improvement in all regards. I mainly like to stay with MF lenses that have a generous focus throw. The later Ais progression of 24's are more difficult to focus manually. What have you used? Which one do you like best. I am mainly using the MF Nikkors on a DF. Thank you in advance.

With the speed of whatever OS and solid state drives, I just drag & drop the NEF's into a temporary folder on the desktop & import to LR from there. OTOH, with the smaller files from the DF, does it really matter? (I'm in the same boat.) My DF is a new camera that I was curious about since it was released. I love it. I had to add a 20mm, and then sorted through all my old MF lenses. I have a separate sack of MF primes, ranging from 20mm to 300mm and pretend I'm back in my FM2/Nikkormat days.

Actually, I have many good batteries. I have 2 chargers, & rotate batteries. The camera(s) are a power hog, but I can get 100+ shots on one battery. The Canon version of the old Kodak is a lot more responsive than my Nikon version. With Firmware 5.4.9, (last beta,) the camera reads a Compact Flash, 32gb Lexar X1066, & I'm getting maximum write speed. I recently frugal, acquired an old Canon 20-35. Online crap says this lens is a dog, but I am quite fine with the IQ Question; (Instead of another top post.) Most lenses I have to keep them mounted pulled counter clockwise, to maintain auto focus & lens info. Which pin on the body is the lens identifier, or perhaps the "ground" pin that couples with the lens?

I think I may track down a Tokina 17-35. (It's excellent on my Nikon.) What's funny, I have a bunch of middle range zooms. When I carry light, a 17-35 and a 70-200 is all that's really needed. (I usually throw a macro in there too. On the Kodak, when using flash in aperture priority mode, it doesn't jump the shutter speed to 1/60, like my Nikons. Is this Canon normal? My little 3rd party flash shows aperture info but doesn't fire. An old Vivitar 285 works fine using the old method of using the flashes sensor.. The camera is in excellent, almost non-used condition. It only has 8K clicks.

Long time Nikon only sort of guy. As the title says.....I got my hands on one of these old dinosaurs. I have the Nikon version and they are quite different. What is a good, frugal choice for a 24 - ? Zoom? I have a 28-80 and a 75-300, slow kit type lenses, but I'm a wide guy. What makes these camera's somewhat special is the sensor. It's only 4500 X 3000 pixels, but Kodak put some kind of "special sauce," making the IQ very, very film like. It's hard to describe. Thank you, in advance.

I forgot to mention, hand held manual focusing the 80-200 is near bliss. I have also discovered that the rear element of the lens is stationary. (I cannot pump up the tires on the Cannondale with my 80-200.)

I loved the output of my D300. It was difficult to get an unsharp image with the now, much outdated lens combos of the time. The 12-24's, 18-70, 16-85 and later to higher end telephotos & Micro lenses. All were wonderful. I thought back then, if they made a 24mp/FX body, with build quality that had IQ similar to the D300, that would be my gold standard. In my case I purchased quite frugally, a D3 with with the "x," suffix. No, it's not high ISO friendly, but Nikon put some kind of secret sauce into the thing that ISO 100-1600 has a bit of an artistic look/quality. I looked back at many different cameras that had unrealistic high price tags. I have a Kodak slr/N, the "x" and a Canon G1x/version 1. The two DSLR's are extremely long dated, however all have an IQ not quite explainable. Though my go to rig is a D800, if I could only own one it would be the D3x. Yes.... Shun me. I deserve it. I had a bad run with several camera bodies when the D300 rave was over. Maybe I'm allergic to plastics, tilt & touch screens and SD cards. Ten cents on the dollar for the cost of a once, $8k Nikon or $5K Kodak is well enough to keep this old man quite delighted. (And when the tool feels right there is no longer any worry or fuss about a new tool.)

Always finding an excuse not to lug the Nikon 70-200VR because of it's length. It screwed up almost every bag I liked. On a whim, I picked up an old push-pull Nikon 80-200/2.8/Non-D boat anchor. "It's a few inches shorter." Used correctly it's sharper across the whole frame, even at 2.8. Question; I think it's not advisable, but is it safe to mount it to a D800 without a support yoke on a tripod? By the serial number, this lens is close to 30 years old, and aside from minimal dust, the innards are perfect. Thank you Nikon. Every now and then your backwards technology saved me from spending $K's of dollars. <humor>

I know it's a big inconvenience, but an SB600-800's can be had for low costs nowadays. Have you tried an external flash? Heck, even most of the old Vivitar 285's have a low sync voltage. Using the flash's dial in aperture setting works well in close distance settings. (I bought an old relic that doesn't have a built in pop up flash, & that "boondoggles" my sense of normal every time i use it.)

My old 135, non-Ai, converted....the blades stuck wide open a long time ago. I bought 2 (perfect) 135's and both were full of cobweb fungus. I ended up buying a Series 1, 135/2.3. I would love to play with a DC 135/2, but it's a bit out of my tax bracket. I have the old 200/4 in my Nikon F sack. It's too pretty to Ai the darned thing. mark4583|1, (It looks like you are playing my Gretsch.)

Personally, I went to the obvious D300 upgrade at the time, the (7xxx/5xxx.) I won't go long but short story "I ended up with several years of bad IQ photos in my Lightroom blob." I lost hope. I even bought a couple Canon's higher end P&S's. (Which are wonderful.) I then went lowball and got a D700. It was good. (I also have an antique 14mp Kodak.) When the D850 appeared I gambled and got a low mile D800. My copy, the body became like my old D300. Pretty much any lens mounted produces "gold." Why is the D7200 selling for $700, New? (I know, why.) Nikon slowly moved the masses to FX and though I'm sure the D500 may be a superb camera, it's too late for myself to even consider it. Buy a D300. The build is top notch. It produces excellent images. (Just beware, you may be shunned if you discuss it here.)

<chuckle> 10 years or so, ago the D300 was the heart of discussion on this same PNet forum. Yes, I still have mine. I still use it. It is one of the few cameras that you can attach any lens, take a shot and presented shot was "gold." Not all Nikon bodies are like this. (I waded through a lot of stuff and was dissatisfied with quite a few previously owned, Nikon bodies.) 12mp is fine for fine print inkjet, and actually overkill if you present your photos on a 4K Television. At the current resale price, it's a sentimental "keeper." It's low miles compared to many and if I did an alcohol wipe down, it would look brand new. If you want to talk about old........I recently purchased a D3x with 16,xxx clicks, and I am zen.. The "Semi Forced Upgrade Attitude" in Shun's world may fly here. That's why I'm usually "not."

I am sorry I sold mine with the D5200, I parted with. I grabbed a D200 w/Nikon grip for a pittance. The plastic 18-55 I have.....I just don't like a plastic mount lens on a "Pro" style body. (Even if it's an antique.) I am an ebay member for 21 years with 100% feedback. I have a lot of old Nikon film era gear and if you need something obscure, I may have it. Trades are fun. Thanks for looking, Steve

I know it is a discontinued, somewhat a failure Nikon product........"However................" I picked one up for small dollars (& actually a 2nd, for the extra Bubble lens covers.) and with the internet consensus of issues, I am able to get the thing to work. For those who have experience with the confounded thing, what phone, tablet and/or Google or Apple OS is the least painful. I was always fascinated with 180 degree, fisheye lenses. I remember spending retail dollars on the FC-E8 for the very early CoolPix. I updated the camera to the latest firmware and have the latest spapbridge 170/360 app on my iPhone SE, running iOS 11. I am looking for the same with an earlier OS, possibly it may work better. No so much an apple fanboy, I only wanted a small screen device & the SE was my only choice. The biggest bugaboo is after remote photography, if I pause to look at a downloaded still or chimp/change settings, I have to pause & wait for wifi to re connect. I am quite happy with the stills and video clips. I only wish there were a way to pan & zoom on video playback. The stills are astounding & almost can make me dizzy while viewing jpeg's doing finger pans & pinch zooms. Does any other device, apple OS or Google have the ability to maintain a constant wifi connection with the remote camera?

I am not here intending to bash or promote. I realize this is a sales driven forum on the Net for Togs to share & learn. First off, I own & use quite a few L plates from Kirk & RRS. I also have a custom lens collar, & several/many same name brand, camera & lens plates. Here's the tricky part. I have had no issues so far with "No Name" ultra low expensive, flat plates. I even purchased a cheap D4 L Plate & works fine. (Though I did have to do about an hour's worth of machining, mod for the strap lug to fit correctly.) That is one hard piece of aluminum. I have a 70, 90 100 & 120mm, & more, no name Arca Style Camera Bottom, or Lens Foot Plates. Has anyone had one crack in the clamp or break off in plate's the mounting screw area? A $15. plate on a $1500 lens' foot tends to make me feel a bit giddy. All feedback is welcome. Thank you, in advance,

Many items. I will post pictures when I put the gear for auction. The Kit includes: 1. Nikon D300, perfect condition, under 10K clicks (Silver Box.) 2. Nikon 80-400VR, Version 1, Perfect condition./includes Really Right Stuff collar & original lens foot. (I have a Sigma soft Case that fits this lens, perfectly.) 3. Nikon 16-85VR, 3.5-5.6 Perfect condition/Box, papers, etc. 4. Nikon SB600 flash unit, Good- Excellent, with soft case & Laminated Cheat sheet. 5. Tokina, 12-24/F4, Version 1. Perfect, w/Box, paperwork Auction price is going to be $1295.00, OBO, & I'll let it ride for months. I will include several batteries, charger & all lenses have coated UV Filters. Pretty much, any old dog, Nikon guy most likely will say, "Yup, you ain't gonna get much better with this combo." The funny part, I'm selling this kit because I purchased into a couple FX Nikon Bodies, similar generation & age as the D300. I have a lot of old MF Nikon glass & prefer to shoot Non-AF, w/tripod assist. I don't know what my stats say on P.net. I may have used several screen names, but I remember joining the conversation here, using a Mac running system 7 or 8, (Mid/Late 90's.) Phone number requests are fine. (I am not online daily. I go "internet dark," sometimes for a couple days at a time.)

I am really late on this one. I've repaired more than a couple pair's of bino's First remove/unscrew the large stack of both sets of element assemblies. The eyepiece assemblies require a screwdriver to detach the eye cups from the focusing screw. Leave the prism's alone. Once dissembled, if the prisms are foggy, rinse them with water or rubbing alcohol & let them dry. If you mess with the prism's set screws, you are in for a task, near impossible/ Most of the elements in bino's are stacked with spacers. If you have the right kind of spanner wrench, just dissemble, wipe the elements clean & really take note of how the spacers are located. You may also have to remember how many turns you have made with your wrench so when you reassemble you get the depth set properly. The eyepieces usually only have 2-3 elements. (I have never encountered elements that were compound or glued together.) I have never purchased a new pair of binoculars. Thrift shops, yard sales are a plenty for finding horrible to excellent sets of bino's. Bushnells are a bit rare, but I have an excellent pair of wide angle Tasco's & a small set of Zeiss pocket size. Be Happy. (Just think if it was a pair of new/expensive, optical stable, battery powered ones!)

I ask questions in "long form," somewhat like sharing a cup of coffee or a brew with another. I never weighed my Aluminum 3, until the CF 5's weight surprised me. I also didn't realize how springy the old was, till the new kid showed up. The comparison above also explains why my CF, G1227 felt as sturdy as old # 3. Throw the geared column back on the aluminum, use it for studio stuff, the #2 CF for distance & use the big legs with big glass. For $4.00 (thrift store,) I bought a yoga mat & bag, that looks like Jimi Hendrix's guitar strap. It wraps & fits the new one perfectly. (Pink & turquoise camouflage.) Ed, You have a history of providing great advise over a stretch of quite a few years. "Long May You Click."

Story telling mood/New toys, insomnia, yada, yada. (Curiosity stage is always the most fun.) For the past several years I have been using an old series 3 aluminum Gitzo. From the best I could find, it's an Interpro Studex, Systematic with the giant wing nuts. It included a Cremaillere geared post but I mostly use a flat top plate with an Arca B1. I recently started exploring longer lenses. I purchased a near pristine manual focus Nikkor, 500/P. Within minutes, the trees out back turned green & spoiled my view The old Gitzo performed almost OK, but.....? (Now, almost November 1, and everything is still 90% green.) Long story short, I ordered a GT5542LS. Fed Ex left it out front on the stoop. When I picked up the box, (4' high, fishing rod box,) & it weighed next to nothing. First impression after opening, "That's a massive set of legs we have here," (with thoughts of a gimbal sooner or later.) I broke out the scale & weighed both tripods.The GT5542LS weighed 2.5 ounces less than my old Aluminum Series 3. Very sturdy, "Happy Dance," time. My only concern; I sometimes have to grab a tripod leg to help stand up. I have some physical issues and I'm not getting any younger. I also prefer shooting landscapes waist level, child's view, sitting on bucket, log, etc. Now back to the 3 Series. Cranked really tight, the legs wobble at the joints & the tubes flex a bit. This question will inspire more.....Where can I purchase replacement plastic/nylon bushings for the old dog? Apologies for the long write/Thank You in advance.