Scanning T-Max 400 (was: "Help on mytol")

[andrew_hoi]

<p>Hi,<br>

Since I had mixed the mytol and testing with TMAX400.<br>

I found the result is a little bits gray...<br>

Developer formula :Mytol (from jack's photographic )<br>

Duritation : 1 + 3<br>

Time : 13.45 Mins<br>

Temp: 20</p>

<p>Do anyone konw why ? and how can I fix it !</p>

<p>Andrew</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Did you try printing or scanning the negatives? It's not easy to evaluate negatives just by looking at them.</p>

[andrew_hoi]

<p>OOOO..yes, I scan it with epson v700.<br>

I had tried to cal the monitor with black and white scale index by eye....<br>

the color from the index scale is ok, no gray color...but when I scan the film, it is gray...</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Getting good results from scanning b&w negatives is fairly difficult, almost as difficult as getting good prints in the traditional darkroom. The negatives may be fine, and you just need to keep trying your scanning and editing techniques. I'm not familiar with that scanner so I can't offer any specific suggestions.</p>

<p>You might find some information and techniques in this section: <a href="../black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/?category=Film+scanning+%28B%26W+only%29"><strong>Film scanning (B&W only)</strong> </a></p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Can you post a sample scan?</p>

[pc_b]

<p>13.45min at 1+3 looks a bit short for me. (shaked all through the first minute?) Compare your results to Tmax400 negatives developed with Xtol or D-76 or similar.</p>

<p>Or run a real test if you really care....</p>

[jordan_w.]

<p>Are you sure that you have enough developer in the tank? Mytol at 1+3 dilution (like its XTOL cousin) is a pretty weak developer and you may be exhausting the solution. </p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Folks, let's stick with the most likely problem before encouraging a potentially needless change in developing technique. Note the original poster's response:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...yes, I scan it with epson v700.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Scanning b&w film is a specialized approach that takes time and practice to master.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I had tried to cal the monitor with black and white scale index by eye....</p>

</blockquote>

<p>And his system is not calibrated.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>the color from the index scale is ok, no gray color...but when I scan the film, it is gray...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>And he notes that the negatives look okay to the eye. The most likely problem is with the scanning.<br>

Andrew, as a first step, be sure to turn <em>off</em> Digital ICE. This feature is incompatible with most traditional b&w films. If you can specify your scanning steps others might be able to offer more specific suggestions.</p>

[kris]

<p>Andrew, a couple of tips from me when scanning B&W films</p>

<p>1. Scan as colour positive. That's right, scan it as if it were colour slide</p>

<p>2. Invert in Photoshop then convert it to greyscale.</p>

<p>3. Adjust Level and/or Curve to suit your liking. If you are unfamiliar with Level/Curve function in Photoshop, have a look at Section 2 of <a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/instant_photoshop.shtml">this tutorial on Luminous Landscape</a> .</p>

<p>Don't go overboard though with the Curve function or it will create funny looking artifacts in the picture.</p>

<p>After you are comfortable with the Curve funtion, I suggest to give a try Duotone/Tritone instead of Greyscale. That's how I create dark brown tint in my B&W pictures <a href="http://www.pbase.com/s9810588">(personal website)</a> . Not everyone's cup of tea but that's how I like it.</p>

<p>Kris</p>