Technicolor dye process, something similar in photo world?

[the journey]

<p>I'm interested in this "painting" on film.  Are there modern inks or dyes that can be put on prints and projected without burning or flaking off? or would this be more like a silk screen process?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I'll google in the meantime.</p>

[the journey]

<p>Ok, next question is, if I follow the path of using color reversal Kodak 64D. Are there any modifications to the processing or hybridization that would make for more saturated colors?</p>

[the journey]

<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #810081;">Sorry about typos the 100D, color reversal.</span></span><a href="http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00Rdfl"></a></p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Not sure I have been able to shift color but never enhance it with ektachrome... and then it is unstable... to begin with.  Filters... but it is still ektachrome.... I think you may have to go with that recut Velvia or going with a Color Negative film..... Sorry I am thought out on this.</p>

<p>Larry</p>

<p> </p>

[the journey]

<p>Larry,<br>

Hmm, ok if I have to go with camera negative and want to use the Fuji Velvia 50, how much pain would it be to shoot SLRs (35mm) at sunrise, do some kind of quick development(???) in a hotel room, ie., no time to send to lab and wait, and then shoot film (16mm) later on at sunset?<br>

thanks<br>

glen</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>C-41 processing is not that easy to do that way a good 1 hour lab could give you quicker and more portable results. in a motel you have to carry all your chems heat them to 100F keep them at that temp and process them in something like a Jobo.</p>

<p>That will get you the negative the 1 hour coud give you prints to see or if you have a scanner and a laptop you could check them that way... </p>

<p>Rock and a hard place...</p>

[the journey]

<p>Larry,<br>

Fuji Velvia 50 or 100 are color reversal and is processed E-6. how to process E-6 reliably?</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Sorry I mis understood. Doing E-6 is not that hard you just need good temp control. are you willing to carry around a bunch of liquid jugs? and something like a Jobo processor? you can do it in daylight tanks but you will still need a temp bath for the chemicals.</p>

<p>Larry</p>

[the journey]

<p>Hi Larry,<br>

Now we get into the 6-step versus the 3 step. i google and read up on the e-6 process. <br>

is there a way to use a less temperature sensitve process and use a dosimeter to check the optical density? the colors might be slightly off and maybe not great images, maybe more grain?? but would the dosimeter be a poor man's way to check the process?</p>

<p>thanks<br>

glen</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Well the 6 step is better as for checking with a dosimeter I am not sure. I always just processed it normal or pushed a stop. Maybe someone else can help you with that but my guess would be.. I doubt it.</p>

[andy_cross1]

Are you interested in just the look or the process itself? There was the dye transfer process for still photography, which is practically identical to the Technicolor process. Kodak discontinued their dye transfer materials years ago. Maybe someone else around here knows if other suppliers have picked up the ball.

 

I still make dye transfer prints ( real ones ) and have several dye sets to print with. One set is a set of Cromax technicolor dyes. The colour space they work in in is very similar to that of the Kodachrome process. The Cromax dyes are anthraquinone's as opposed to the monosulphonates the Kodak DT dyes were made on. How you would replicate this colour space now using contempoary materials would not be easy. But there are a few DT labs around still who may be able to colour match to a Kodachrome.