ALL WE ARE IS DUST on the sensor

[nikolo5]

Good time!

 

It is about Nikon D300, but nothing wrong with it, so it is about ALL DSLR..

Well the huge disadvantage of all DSRL is that the sensor is always the same! It is not like movable film. One

shot - one frame!

 

My D300 came with absolutely clean sensor, moreover, no dead or even hot pixels, but.... after 6 month of using

it i got few dust particles which cannot be removed neither by sensor shaking (did it few

times at once) nor by a blower (see how does it affect the picture - attached file)..

 

I still don't loose hope, and have few questions..

- how strong blower can be used?

- it is OK to use not a rubber blower, but a small air compressor, which is also designed for cleaning optics??

- I understand that anti-alias filter is very gentle, but HOW much gentle?? can it be broken even by an air flow from

the blower/compressor ?

 

I readily removed the dust particles affecting my images on my former D50, as far as I remember now.. On

the other hand I dont want to send camera to the service center, because I dont trust people there, they can

scratch sensor and I will not mention it at once... well it is another story..

 

Thank you for any suggestions !

 

NB.<div></div>

[bill_keane2]

Should this dust actually appear in a real-world image, shot at f8 or larger, I would use the AutoRetouch tool in Capture NX2, and never worry again.

[ellis_vener_photography]

I use Eclipse fluid and swabs if a blower -- DON'T USE Pressurized CANNED AIR t oclean a sensor. I think that like the D3

and D700 you need to use the Eclipse 2 fluid on the D300 but check first..

[elliot1]

Send it to Nikon for a FREE cleaning.

[ronald_moravec1]

Eclipse 2 + sensor swabs. Must be the 2.

 

In the future, change lenses with the mount facing down and new lens at the ready to go right on.

Make sure the back of the new lens is clean so use lens caps.

 

Blow of the mirror off after each outing, raise the mirror but not open the shutter and blow out the whole mirror chamber to keep dust from migrating to the sensor. I ocassionally blow off the sensor cover whether it needs it or not. Long term dust tends to stick more.

 

Condensation can also form, so do not bring the camera in from the cold and let it warm rapidly.

Even with film cameras, I used to wrap the whole camera bag in my parka for 8 hours. Insulate it if you are traveling in a car not yet up to interior temp. Be wary of humid climates and taking a camera out into warm humid air.

[nikolo5]

Thank you so far !

 

- Bill, any software is not an option for me since it is an extra time to process pictures..

 

- Allis, thank you I will check about Eclipse fluid.. could you precise a blower type...?

 

- Elliot, My D300 is a gray market body bought in S. Korea. no free cleaning for it :(

 

NB.

[nikolo5]

Ronald, thank you too ! :)

[Matt Laur]

Canned air: bad

<br><br>

Air from a compressor: <i>especially</i> bad (lubricants from the compressing equipment are part of the output, unless you're using a compressor that cost a lot more than your camera did)

<br><br>

The Eclipse products work just great. Don't be afraid to give your sensor's filter a careful wiping. It's easy, it takes seconds, and even the cost of the swabs and fluid is next to nothing considering time over which one package will eventually be consumed.

[matt_needham]

"Well the huge disadvantage of all DSRL is that the sensor is always the same!"

 

You are looking at the glass half empty. The big advantage of digital over film is that I only have to fix my dust problems once in the original file, while with film it has to be dealt with on a print by print basis. Film is just as susceptible to dust, it's just that if you are using 35mm it's so grainy that you never notice, and if you don't notice dust when using larger formats it's because the lab tech is spotting the prints for you. As someone who did their own film processing and printing I find find my digital dust problems quite relaxing in comparison. I'll never trade in the spot healing brush for a bottle of Spotone again!

[dan_brown4]

I use Eclipse fluid and PEC pads to keep my sensors clean. This has worked well for me since 2002. I also take care not to expose

the interior of the mirror box to the outside air more than a few seconds during lens changes.

[Ed_Ingold]

Nick

 

Dust is inevitable - even if you glue the lens to the body and never change it. Had you used the search function before posting you would have found thousands of responses on this subject.

 

The D300 has a built-in cleaning system which shakes the sensor to dislodge dust. Try to locate your manual. You might read through it to discover other interesting tidbits.

 

If that doesn't work (lint can be very persistent), try using an hand blower, or possibly an oil-free, filtered compressor (e.g., for an air brush). Canned air is too strong (it's not air, but a freon-like liquid), and can force dust behind the IR filter where it can only be removed by the factory ($$). Blowing generates static electricity which can make dust stick even tighter. Don't go crazy if the blower doesn't seem to work - read on.

 

Since my camera doesn't have the cleaning cycle, I use a set of Visible Dust brushes, which are highly effective (better than a blower). The bristles are very fine and use static electricity to "suck up" lint particles and fine dust.

 

The last resort is to use the Eclipse Fluid/PEC Pad method. This will remove dust, lint and spots (e.g., from canned air, salt spray or using your brreath). Brush to remove any abrasive dust first - scratches are more persistent than dust.

 

If you don't mind being without a camera for a few weeks at a time, you can also send the camera to Nikon for cleaning.

 

You can test for dust at any time by stopping down the lens and shooting at open sky. The small aperture opening exaggerates dust and makes it clearly visible against the plain background. Focus doesn't matter. Beware - it's like trying on swim suits under fluorescent lights - every flaw is revealed. In practice, a few small spots at normal apertures are often invisible, or can be easily removed with the Healing Tool in Photoshop.

[Ed_Ingold]

Nick

 

Dust is inevitable - even if you glue the lens to the body and never change it. Had you used the search function before posting you would have found thousands of responses on the subject of dust prevention and cleaning.

 

The D300 has a built-in cleaning system which shakes the sensor to dislodge dust. Try to locate your manual. You might read through it to discover other interesting tidbits.

 

If that doesn't work (lint can be very persistent), try using an hand blower, or possibly an oil-free, filtered compressor (e.g., for an air brush). Canned air is too strong (it's not air, but a freon-like liquid), and can force dust behind the IR filter where it can only be removed by the factory ($$). Blowing generates static electricity which can make dust stick even tighter. Don't go crazy if the blower doesn't seem to work - read on.

 

Since my camera doesn't have the cleaning cycle, I use a set of Visible Dust brushes, which are highly effective (better than a blower). The bristles are very fine and use static electricity to "suck up" lint particles and fine dust.

 

The last resort is to use the Eclipse Fluid/PEC Pad method. This will remove dust, lint and spots (e.g., from canned air, salt spray or using your brreath). Brush to remove any abrasive dust first - scratches are more persistent than dust. I've not used this method since purchasing the Visible Dust brushes a year and a half ago.

 

While you're at it, clean the entire mirror box (with a blower and/or brush), and the backside of all your lenses. Vacuum out your camera bag. A little prevention goes a long way. My sensors need cleaning only every 3 months or longer, and I'm out every day and change lenses without a second thought.

 

If you don't mind being without a camera for a few weeks at a time, you can also send the camera to Nikon for cleaning.

 

You can test for dust at any time by stopping down the lens and shooting at open sky. The small aperture opening exaggerates dust and makes it clearly visible against the plain background. Focus doesn't matter. Beware - it's like trying on swim suits under fluorescent lights - every flaw is revealed. In practice, a few small spots at normal apertures are often invisible, or can be easily removed with the Healing Tool in Photoshop.

[phule]

There is absolutely no reason why you cannot buy one of the various wet cleaning methods and clean your own sensor. I use the products from VisibleDust.com but there are a number of worthwhile products available.

[paradoxbox]

the sensor cleaning market is the biggest racket i've seen in years. it's an industry based on fearmongering, it's hilarious. clean your sensor with something soft and do it extremely gently.

 

never use any material that could be harder than the glass filter covering the sensor. do not let the cleaning material touch the edges of the sensor since the d300 has pits of grease all around that will smear and look terrible - then you actually WILL need a cleaning liquid to get the grease off.

[dennis_d._hardenburger]

I bought my first digital camera seven months ago, a Nikon D3. It had dust to start with, I ordered some eclipse 2,

sensor swabs, and pec pads. After spending the better part of a day and the eclipse gave me a head ache, I had a mess

of streaks and was very frustrated. I ended up taking the camera to my local camera shop and they cleaned it for $40. I

have since learned to do it my self. The initial problems were caused by the grease or ? from the edges of the sensor, it

took several cleanings to eliminate that problem. I use prime lens so do change lens a lot. What I have settled into is

first use the blower then the sensor brush ( this takes care of it most of the time ) if further cleaning is necessary I then

use a sensor pen it works wonders ( I can't believe more people don't recommend the sensor pen ) and last if needed the

eclipse 2 and wet cleaning. With my type of shooting I need plenty depth of field and until I started using the sensor pen

I was never able to get the sensor 100% clean at f22. It really is not a big deal to clean your own sensor.

Dennis

[hal_edmonds]

Had my camera repair clean my sensor, $40.00 bucks...Sensors are very expensive to replace so I traded in all my lenses, except the macro, and got a 18 - 200 VR...Now I don't have to change lenses so much...I live in a dusty clime...

[AndyMiller]

Hi there - here is a web address to what I think is the best site on the web for cleaning DSLR's

"http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/index.html" - I have found their advice invaluable and it holds your hand through

the process for the nervous. Looking at your image above - the concentric rings are not dust - it looks like evaporated fluid

of some sort and I would suggest it needs treatment with a swab and cleaning fluid. Follow the advice on this site - they

make the fluids if I remember correctly - and remember that some will destroy your sensor rather than clean it!

[berg_na]

I agree with Andrew, the spot visible in the sample shot is not due to particulate contamination, it looks more like a spot of some oily substance. This cannot be removed by blowing air on the surface and will require a liquid cleaner and some swabbing. The sample shot was taken at f/9, dust contamination will be more evident at f/22.

[bill_keane2]

"- Bill, any software is not an option for me since it is an extra time to process pictures.. "

 

True, it takes time. About a second. This of course assumes a spot the size shown would even be noticeable, and necessary to fix.

 

Proper liquid cleaning may also take some time.

[eric_arnold]

nick, i had some dust on my sensor which showed up at narrow apertures. i was gonna get around to cleaning it but never did. i did have the built-in sensor cleaning set to go on whenever i turned the camera off. after about a month, most or all of the dust vibrated off. so the sensor shake feature does work, just not instantaneously.

[ted_springer]

Get Dust Aid. Works every time.

[nikolo5]

Eric, thats a good tip !

 

I didn't guess about it yet.. I will try one month to use "clean sensor when shutting OFF" and I'll see then.

 

Thank you !

[steven_f1]

Nick, there are a lot of cleaning products out there. I personally use a Visible Dust kit (sensor brush, swabs, and cleaning fluid). Most of the time the brush is all I need. I have not found blowers to be very effective. My camera doesn't have a cleaning mechanism so I cannot advise you on how best to use it.

 

However that said the spot you show may not actually be dust. It could be something on the lens (probably the last element before the light reaches the sensor). I had a similar spot and when I removed the lens I saw a rather large spec on the glass. I don't know what it was but it was very sticky and it took some time to remove. But once it was gone the image was clear.

 

If you follow the instructions that come with a cleaning kit you buy you shouldn't have to worry about damaging the sensor. I have seen a number of comment from people worried that they would scratch the sensor when they clean it, but I have yet to hear of someone that actually did scratch it.

[nikolo5]

Steven!

Thank you for sensor cleaning kit suggestions!

 

First im gonna try switch the sensor shaking every time camera get ON for 1-2 weeks, that will order the brush.

 

It is not on a lens since - 1. few lens give the same effect 2. contamination(s) are visible directly on the sensor, exactly where they produce the spots on pictures.

 

Regards, NB.

[rick_drawbridge]

Here's a cheap solution to the dust problem that I use on my EOS's for obstinate dust. I went to the local hardware store and bought one of those super-cheap house-plant spray bottles, about 1.5 L. in size and with the plunger pump, trigger and nozzle assembly on top. I keep it in a warm dry place with the top loose to discourage condensation, and when I want to deal to the dust I bring it out, tighten the top and pump away until I've created a good pressure in the flask. I test a short burst on a hand mirror to establish that there's no moisture in the stream, and the flip the mirror up and give the sensor a good blasting .One can't create enormous pressures in these vessels, but I guess one has to exercise a degree of sensible judgment as to how great a windstorm to create.

 

This method appeals to me much more than physically wiping the sensor with various objects and liquids, and I've never had a speck that could resist my efforts! Hope this is of some help...