Advice needed: M6 or M7 and Lens combinations?

[jeff_kim3]

Hi

 

I am new to Leica M and wanted to know what your thoughts were on the M6 / M7 combinations as a starter..<br><br>

 

<b>M6 + Leica 50mm f2 or f1.4 OR 35mm f2.0 or f1.4 (1.4s being available at decent price)</b><br><br>

 

<b>M7 + Voigtlander f1.2 or f1.4 OR Zeiss 50mm f1.5 (maybe Zeiss 35mm f2)</b><br><br>

 

I have been spoiled using DSLR and trying to make my way back to film (but not back to film SLR). <br><br>

 

Also, how does M6 with 200xxx or below camera fair? <br>

Finally, how can you tell how old the lens are via serial?<br>

I have thought about going for the cheapest since I am a novice but I would want to avoid the headache of getting a camera that i would

need to CLA or fix. <br><br>

 

Thank you

[robert_landrigan]

it's flat out silly to pay the money for a leica body and then get a Voigtländer or Zeiss lens - either save a few bucks, get a

Bessa R2/R3 and the Voigtländer or Zeiss glass, or get an M6/35mm combo. If you really like the 50 perspective better,

may that, but 35 is a better fit for a lot of RF shooting for a lot of folks. Then, if the bug sticks, pick a few Voigtlander

lenses. And if you find it's not your cup of xtol, you can get most of your money back.

[michael_a._shapiro]

The reason to get a Leica is its durability and dependability. It's the best! That's why they're carried by journalists as prime or backup cameras. There are often lenses besides Leica that will shoot every bit as well as you do. Several of the Zeiss lenses will out resolve and focus many of the Leica lenses, and even CV has some winning lenses. If you wan t a fast 50, the CV 50/1.5 is second only to the Leica asph summilux.

 

The m6 is more mechanical than the m7 and therefore a better choice for durability.

[andrew_viny]

Honestly I am no expert but from what I have read the differences between the M6 and M7 are marginal at best. I would

get the cheaper body and nicer glass. Personally I often find myself drooling over the 50mm f/1.4. I just bought an M2

with a 50mm f/2.8. I got this a filter and a nice light meter for $1100. Honestly the M6 is a fantastic camera and with the

50 1.4 you would have a great all purpose any situation kit. My other camera is a 30D so I think I can relate to your

situation. I couldn't be happier. Best of luck, happy shooting, and if you found a great low price source for Leica gear

please share!

 

~Andrew

[andrew_viny]

OH and no electronic shutter in the M6 so fewer annoying battery changes.

[michael_dimarzio]

More importantly, may be the question of which VF?

[leicaglow]

IF I had to choose Leica glass or Leica cameras, I'd go for the Leica lens on a non-Leica body. But the body is the joy in using Leica in the first place.

[jose_angel]

"... the differences between the M6 and M7 are marginal at best..." For some, like me, the M7 is the most different M

camera. It needs batteries to work!

 

There is a huge difference using an aperture priority camera and an all mechanical camera. The first is much faster,

you can almost forget the exposure issue when shooting. The M6 is a much slower operation camera, you need to

check more carefully the lightning conditions if you want to pre-set the exposure for fast shooting, and keep this

shots under the limits.

 

Lens choices are very important, but IMO behind the aperture priority issue (I suppose you want to use the

camera... )

[nzdavid]

You'll get good results from any of these combinations. But to appreciate Leica, you do need Leica lenses. That's not knocking the others.

My own favorite is the 50 Summicron. It's amazingly versatile. 35 'cron is also a terrific lens. Leica M6, as others say, is not battery

dependent. Only other advice: Go by price.

[jeff_kim3]

I have been searching for relatively decent Leica lens online but not sure how I could tell how old the lens are.

 

I am guessing higher the number the newer.

[jose_angel]

Jeff, Gandy`s site is a good place to learn. If you don`t have the link...

 

<a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/mlenses.htm">http://www.cameraquest.com/mlenses.htm</a>.

[kentigern]

I had an M6 but sold it for an M7 and am very pleased I did. The M6 is a fine camera but the M7 is a lot better in my opinion. M7's are also a bargain secondhand, there are plenty of good deals out there so shop around. Make sure you get one with the MP viewfinder.

 

As for lenses, the 35mm summicron is probably the best first lens to get - I have a v4 which is great. If you can't find one to suit, or want a new lens then the Zeiss 35mm f2.8 is reportedly excellent.

[tomashuk]

Imho, there is no use in spending extra money for a 'slightly updated M6' rather than M6 itself. There is no decent difference between the cameras you are attracted to except the higher price of M7 and its battery addicted exposure. As for

the lenses I would certainly agree with others whose advice was to concentrate on the lens and not the camera body that

won't make the photograph look better. For this reason I would recommend you to take a closer look at http://leicagallery.com/mreviews.htm under the "Leica 'M' Series Lens Specifications" paragraph. There you will also find

the answer to your question and learn how to find out when a leica lens of your special interest was produced (and sometimes also where).

[george_shihanian]

The comment that the M7 is so much faster than the M6 is an exaggeration. If you have been a photographer before,

you should have learned to recognize the ballpark aperture you'd need while you're walking about and have that

already set on your lens (along with say, 1/125 on the shutter dial) . I do this with my M6, and the most I have to

move my aperture or shutter speed before I shoot is just one f-stop. A lot of times I'm ready to shoot with no

adjustment needed, maybe a half stop off, so I can just compose, focus and press the button, same as an M7.

 

I've owned or own just about every LTM and M camera body, including the M7. I have settled on a late M6 classic as

my main body. My thoughts were that the M6 will always be usable even if the circuit fails. The only thing you would

lose is the built in meter. If that should happen, you can either have it repaired or stick on a Voigtlander meter. With

the M7, you'd lose the ability to take photos, have a more expensive repair, or say in 20 years, an unrepairable

paperweight. So, for my uses and reasoning, I didn't want to spend another $800- $1000 over the price of an M6

classic just to get AE. Buy the M6 and put the money toward lenses.

 

And many Voigtlander lenses will perform as well as a lot of Leica lenses. Do your research on the CV lenses and

you'll be satisfied I'm sure.

[jeff_kim3]

Thank a lot. Lots of good advice.

 

What are your magnification on your cameras? Just curious.

I was thinking of 0.58 because I would only shoot 50mm, 35mm and 28mm. (also i wear glasses / contacts)

[johnmarkpainter]

Jeff,

 

Get the M6 and learn to shoot all manual.

Better yet...TAKE OUT THE BATTERY and shoot without the built-in meter.

 

The best value lenses:

40mm f2 Summmicron (Leitz or Rokkor) do a google search for lots of info

50mm f2 Summicron "Rigid"

90mm f2.8 Tele-Elmarit "Thin"

 

I use the 40mm as my all-the-time lens.

It is very small, light and SHARP.

Can be bought for less than $300 usually (try www.keh.com)

 

The 50mm Rigid is a CLASSIC.

Try www.kevincameras.com

He usually has 'user' Rigids for under $400

 

The 90 TE Thin

You just have to make sure the Glass doesn't have the "etching" problem (Google that)

The TE thin is half the weight and size of a 90 cron if you dont NEED F2

 

jmp

[george_shihanian]

My mag is .72. I wanted to more easily shoot 90mm lenses, but find I now use 75mm as my max.

[jeff_kim3]

Thanks John

 

How do you feel about ASPH and pre-ASPH? Does only really effect the digital M?

[jose_angel]

Mine is M6TTL .85. My most used lens is a `cron asph 35.

[jeff_kim3]

Jose, have you used 35 or even 28 on 0.85?

[svante.johansson]

As the Zeiss 50mm f1.5 C Sonnar seems to be a part of your equation I would like to add the following. This is a lovely lens, my favourite for e.g. environmental portraits. It renders an unsharp background beautifully but most of the time you need to stop it down to f2.8.

 

Because of its optical properties it is very difficult to focus wide open, and even if you are successful in that respect it is not very sharp then. If you want a lens with a classic style (the optical formula is basically pre-WWII) you may consider it, but if you want the highest performance at f1.5 I don't think it is a contender.

[jeff_kim3]

Thanks Svante, good to know. Now I am trying to focus more on Leica lens only.

[johnmarkpainter]

The modern Asperical lenses are REALLY good, but what I like about Leica is the old stuff.

I had a Pre Aspherical 35 that was really good. The old 35 Summaron is great for for outdoors.

I also had a 35 cron "with eyes" that was wonderful. (HEAVY THOUGH@!)

 

I've never used a Digital Leica but I am sure I would still prefer the old lenses.

I have a Nikon Digi SLR and I use 60's Nikon glass on that and it makes me happy.

 

"Thanks John

How do you feel about ASPH and pre-ASPH? Does only really effect the digital M?"

[jose_angel]

Jeff, I bought the .85 just to be used in conjunction with the 35mm lens. It`s my favourite and most used. For many,

this combination is inusable (glass wearers, people who like to see the scene outside the frame... ). I like not to be

so worried about framing. "If I see it in the viewfinder I have it... ". Anyway, I can perfectly see the whole 35mm frame

marks and a slight bit more. The .85 doesn`t have 28mm frame and probably the whole viewfinder doesn`t cover the

28mm view. My next lens is a Elmar-M 50/2.8, and I love to have the highest mag. available frame for this lens.

 

I was not interested on a 28mm but on 21 and perhaps now on a 18mm. Both needs external viewfinder in all

cameras. If I were looking to use a 28mm, my choice would have been a .72.

[michael_dimarzio]

Jose A, thanks for posting your thoughts. When I bought an M camera, the VF mag was central. I decided on a 0.72, but now don't think it was the best decision. A good alternative would have been either the 58 or 85 then a second body, perhaps a user ZI.