benjaminoliverhicks Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Here is some background. I am relatively new to traditional B&W photography. I have been shooting and processing my own B&W for about 4 months (35mm and medium format). I attribute my education in photography to this website. I would like some help with a couple of decisions I need to make, and this was the obvious place to turn. It seems to be widely recommended to standardize the B&W processes as much as possible. So for medium format I chose 100 Tmax, and for 35mm I have been using various films around 400 iso, basically whatever I can get where I am. The chemicals I have chosen are HC110, Ilford Rapid Fix, and Kodak Indicator stop. I had a need for some high speed films in 35mm. So I picked up some Neopan 1600 and some Tmax P3200. I really enjoyed the results I received with both, especially the Neopan. This got me thinking that I should standardize for a range of speeds. So I want to standardize for these speeds: in medium format 100, 400, and high speed (Ilford Delta 3200 or push slower film); and in 35mm 400 and high speed. I have the 100 iso in 120 already (the 100Tmax), the high speed 120 (Delta 3200), and the high speed 35mm (Neopan 1600). So I need to cover the 400 in both formats. I know I want to try the 35mm Arista Premium 400 because of its price. In medium format I am not so sure about what film I want to use. I have a 220 back that is not being used so I thought I might by a pack of TXP 320, but I also want to try Tri-x 400, Neopan 400, and Delta 400. So my question is should I pick one (I would pick TXP 320 to use with my 220 back) or try them all and see which one I like the best. I shoot mostly landscapes, cityscapes, architecture, concerts, and a little street. So I use a tripod for most of my work, but I would like to start shooting more street without a tripod. So I don't slow down my friends if I'm out with them. I don't use any lighting equipment, and I know some people say that TXP 320 was made for studio work. Others have used it with good results outdoors though. Another thing is I don't have much money. I guess I am the typical broke college student. This thread is probably longer than needed, but I wanted to give some background. Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zensphoto Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Nice range of films you have chosen. I would try them all. I shoot with the following, Neopan 1600 and Ilford 3200 as the high speed 35mm. I sometimes use Tri-X 400 35mm from time to time, Usually I use Maco UP+25, Efke 25, Ilford 50, Arista 50 and Arista 125 35mm all the time . I have pushed Ilford 3200 to 6400 ISO and have pushed Neopan 1600 to 3200 at times and both develop great. The only medium format I shoot is in the Holga (like a Diana camera) I get great effects with it. I use the Arista 100 and 400 120. I have shot over 5000 rolls of B&W of the various above types of 35mm and 120 films and I have developed every single roll with several different developers. The fun of B&W is being able to experiment with many different kinds of films, chemicals and papers.<br><br> Eventually, you get to the point for instance (like a golfer knows which club to use on the course) you will after trying many different kinds of films, chemicals, and paper find the ones you really like to use. Once you get comfortable with the favorite films you can then standardize your processing of the ones you enjoy using the most that will render the look and feel you want in your photos. <br><br> “The best part of film photography is experimenting until you have the look and feel you want.” <br><br> Have a good one ! <br><br> Duane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I think the TXP is a good choice. May I suggest you also consider Ilford Delta 400. I use both. I would tell you that about two years ago I bought 10 rolls of just about every 35mm 120 and 4x5 film available from Ilford, Fuji, Kodak, Rollei, and a few others. I didn't learn that much. By the time you consider the results of each with Rodinol, XTol, HC110 and DD-X, you have so many combinations that you never master any of them. Looking back, I would work with a single film for at least 4-6 months, unless it was absolutely not going to work. Learn to shoot it and process it to your liking. Once you think you've gotten the most out of it, try another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Pick one film, perhaps two. Pick the same for both formats. No more than one slow and one fast. T-Max 100 and HC110 does not go together well. You think it looks good until you try it in D76 where it shines. Check out Kodaks website. What they call primary recommendations are bold type. D76 is bold . HC110 is not. This primary recomendation of bold type is no longer explained, but those of us who have been doing this for 50 years know about it. I figured it by accident when I simply could not quite get what I wanted with HC110 no matter what I did. When I looked up the start times for D76, it hit me like a ton of bricks. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf?id=0.2.26.14.15.16.14&lc=en There you can see it at the bottom of page 4 of the PDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert lee Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I'll share some opinion and observations on the films. I believe Arista Premium is really 400 Tri-X. I've been shooting some of this recently and processing in Xtol. What can I say? Can't beat it for $2 for 36 exposures. Personally, I think the best 400ISO film available now 400 TMAX (TMY2.) I have developed this in HC-110, TMAX developer, and Xtol. All the developers work well, but the Xtol results were really excellent - very little grain, excellent tonality, and bitingly sharp. I used to use quite a bit of Neopan 400 as well. I prefer TMY2 now, but the Fuji product is a bit cheaper. In 100 speed film, I haven't found significant differences between Kodak 100 Tmax and Fuji Acros. I prefer Acros though because it has the best reciprocity behavior of any film Ii've come across. It requires no adjustments out to 2 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathancraver Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I have only shot Kodak products, though I have heard Fuji Acros and the various Ilford films are great as well. I have used TXP 320 outdoors quite a bit and got excellent results. Tri-X 400 is also great. I now only shoot T-Max 100 and 400, as I am also relatively new to traditional B/W film photography and developing/printing. My recommendation is to do like Ronald said, get only 1 or 2 films one high, one low speed, and shoot with them for a while. Pick one developer and stick with it for a while. Fixer and stop baths are irrelevant as long as they do their job. Learn how to achieve consistent results with 1 film/developer combination. Learn how to properly adjust development time to compensate for contrast. Once you have that down, then consider changing either the film or the developer, but not both. If you change too many things at the same time, you won't learn how it all works and you will basically be blindly throwing things together and hoping for good results. I have been shooting and developing T-Max 100 and 400 with D-76 for about 5 months now. Now I am going to change developer to T-Max. I love D-76, I just want to see how T-Max Dev. will work out (I also hate mixing powder). Anyway, which ever film you choose, I do highly recommend Kodak D-76 developer as it is a great all around developer. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy_johnson5 Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 I agree to simplify and concentrate on getting the most out of one combination before trying others. Tri-x and HC-110b is a classic combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big toys are better Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 As a beginner, it makes a lot of sense to start with a couple of forgiving films such as Tri-X or HP-5, and a slower film such as FP-4+ or Agfa 100, and souping in a HC-110 (very easy since it is a liquid stock and can be used at a variety of dilutions). Once you get your exposure and darkroom techniques down, you can try contrasty films like the slower Efkes, Pan F and the like, and I'd recommend trying well diluted Rodinal (also a liquid stock) for those. Tabular films such as Ilford Delta and Kodak TMax need more care in their exposure and development, and so they ought not be part of your first attempts. All of these films currently come in 35mm and 120 rolls. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjaminoliverhicks Posted September 10, 2008 Author Share Posted September 10, 2008 Thank you for your help. I am going to get the TXP 320 and stick with that for a while. I will be sticking with HC110 because I have it and I want to get good with it before moving on to probably D76, then Rodinal (I do like liquid stock). Once again thank you for your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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