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Do I need to set the ISO on my M6, if I do not use the onboard meter?


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Hi,

 

This may not be the smartest question I've ever asked, but I am a bit confused at the moment? I have an M6 "Classic" that I've bin using

alot lately. Unfortunately, the meter does not work very well because the circuitry is rotten, and I only get one led in the veiwfinder. Despite

this slight impediment, I get by quite well with my handheld meter and a little guessing.

 

My query though, is if I were to remove the batteries and did not set the iso of the film I was using, would this effect the sensitivity of my

film? For example: if I were to set the iso to 800 and use a 400 film, would that have an outcome on the exposure? Are the batteries in this

camera exclusively for the meter? I have never pushed my films on this camera before.

 

I'm still trying to figure out the mechanics of this camera. It is so different from my other cameras, since they are fully dependent on

batteries to function.

 

I wasn't able to find any information on this topic, not even in Gunter Osterloh's book.

 

Your responses would be much appreciated :-)

 

Marcel

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In one word, no.

 

The f-stop is set mechanically, as is the shutter speed. ISO is relevant only for metering. Since you are

choosing to ignore or turn off the meter in your M6, you need not set the ISO setting of the film you will be

using on the M6 ISO dial.

 

You would be setting that in your hand held meter, and then reading off an f=stop and a shutter speed combination

which

you then would transfer to the camera. You will, manually set the f-stop on your M6 using the aperture ring on

the lens, and the shutter speed dial on the body of the M6.

 

So, if you use ISO 400 film, be sure to set the hand held meter at iso 400. If

you use iso 800 film then set the hand held meter to iso 800, etc.

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The camera is a manual camera and the shutter isn't electronically controlled. There is no electronic coupling between the lens and the body, only the mechanical one for the rangefinder. So - whether or not you use the meter is irrelevant. Therefore you can use it fine without batteries.
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Marcel, you got your (correct) answers regarding your M6classic but I think it is worth pointing out that the

M6TTL is also a "manual" (read mechanical?) camera with all shutter speeds timed mechanically. However, flash ttl

only works with the batteries inserted and the ISO dial set to the correct position (depending on one's

preferences maybe shifted somewhat).

The M6TTL without batteries behaves exactly like a M6 classic without batteries: no ttl flash, only "A" mode by

the flash itself.

 

One must not forget to set the ISO of the flash according to the film inserted - and usually after every

switch-on (if I recall correctly).

 

Of course, the M7 without batteries is restricted to 1/60-or-1/125 only, and no flash capabilites whatsoever.

 

Cheers,

Pete

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Try moving the iso setting back and forth many times.

With a little luck you can rub the oxidation off this way and the meter might work again.

Many people are using only one or two iso settings (eg 400...) over a long time.

It's like with some old hifi gear: If you don't use a certain parameter over a long time,

oxid and dirt will avoid proper contact in any other position than your default. The only thing you have to do is moving

it. Buzz-whizz-crackle!

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If Kurt's trick doesn't work, just remove the batteries and use the ISO wheel as a reminder of the film you loaded in the

camera. As said above, the M6 is a mechanical camera. The batteries only feed the meter. The M6TTL is exactly like

the M6, but the added metering (TTL) is for flash purposes only. You can use either camera without batteries and metering

with a separate meter.

 

Take care!

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The battery is only for the meter. With a battery and meter, the ASA dial is only useful as a reminder of what film speed you have in the camera. If you don't want to get your M6 fixed. You may consider selling it in the state it's in on ebay (disclose the meter problem) and buy a late model M4, M4-2 or M4-P. You should still be able to make some money on the exchange, even with your meter problem, and if you get a M4 you'll get a timer (my favorite M feature). Good luck.
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