Ilford Delta 400 in Rodinal 1+50

[gianluca_faletti]

<p>Good morning to all, I've developed the film like is written in the title and a results are very dark negatives.<br>

The exposure times are correct, and also the developer temperature and time (18 minutes at 20 °C).<br>

There someone that have some idea ?<br>

Thank you very much.<br>

I wish you an Happy New Year to all.<br>

Bye<br>

Gianluca Faletti</p>

 

[derek_kennedy]

<p>According to the Mass Developing chart, to develop a roll of Delta 400 when exposed at 400 iso, the times should be 20 minutes at 20C - when diluted 1+50 not 18 minutes. If you exposed the film as 800 iso, the developing time would be 16 minutes...</p>

<p>I wonder if thats the problem. Developed too short of a time.</p>

[geoff_mitchell]

<p>Think you have stewed it a bit too long Gianluca.<br>

My usual routine is 11 mins for 400, 16 for 800 and 7.5 mins for most of my Delta 400 at 200 - all at 20C.<br>

Happy New Year to all</p>

 

[gianluca_faletti]

<p>Thank you to all, sorry, but in the Rodinal instructions that I found with the developer the time is 18' at 20°C for 1+50 diluition.<br>

On the Massive Dev chart is written 20' to 20 °C for 1+50 diluition, like Derek said.<br>

Geoff where you've found this data ?<br>

Bye</p>

 

[ronald_moravec1]

<p>Data sheets are guides only. It depend on the accuracy of you equipment, water supply, and if you use a condenser or diffusion enlarger. Nobody can give you a perfect time. </p>

<p>Delta 400 was changed a few years back, so you don`t know if the data sheet reflects the change. </p>

<p>Run a test of 6 exposures. Pull out 12" in the dark and develope and print only that much.</p>

<p> </p>

[john romano]

<p>Gianluca:<br>

Check your thermometer. Most are notoriously inaccurate. It could be that your thermometer may state 20 degrees, and could be 25+ degrees.<br>

What type is it? Dial? Can it be calibrated?<br>

I question an extra two minutes in developer when it's supposed to be 18 minutes, is the problem.<br>

Also, are you using distilled water?</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Yes indeed, some thermometers can be notoriously inaccurate. Some of the dial type thermometers are particularly bad. I have 3 dial thermometers and none of them read the same, and none agree with my el-cheapo digital kitchen thermometers that I got from Walmart for about $12 US each. One is particularly bad, and cannot be adjusted. It is at least 5 deg. F off my Paterson Color Thermometer which I use as a reference On the other hand, these kitchen gadget thermometers are exactly the same as the digital thermometers sold in camera supply places (with different packaging) for much more money. Both read within fractions of 1 degree (C or F) and agree closely with a Paterson Color Thermometer that I use as a reference. </p>

[gianluca_faletti]

<p>Thank you very much to all for your remarks.<br>

Bye</p>

 

[profhlynnjones]

<p>You can push the heck out of it but please, not in Rodinal.</p>

<p>This is a retro film similar to films 50 years ago, thick emulsion, high granularity, relatively low resolution. Use Fine grain developers, especially the high energy developers like UFG. You'll get finer grain and sharper images. UFG works best when combined with UFG Replenisher.</p>

<p>Neopan 400 is sharper but should also be used with fine grain developers as above or with Microphen.</p>

<p>The latest TMY is, I think, the best quality 400 speed around although I don't think it pushes well.</p>

<p>Lynn </p>

[tom_stanworth1]

<p>I disagree with Lynn. New D400 (many years old now) is not at all retro, but a very modern fine grained films with technology derived from Delta 3200. It has a modern look, extremely fine grain for the speed and a very different look to the HP5/TriX/APX400 etc. Neopan has slightly less fine grain and lower resolution, although it is closer to D400 in these regards than the others I mentioned. in fact it is so close that if you are looking for a traditional emulsion with a more traditional look, but want much finer grain and higher resolution than HP5/TriX, Neopan is the way to go. The difference in detail recorded between Neopan and the older emulsions is not subtle, it hits you in the face. D400 will give you more resolution and finer grain over Neopan but there is a fairly big change in the overall look as well.<br>

New D400 works very well in Xtol 1+1/2/3. You will get very smooth tonality, extremely fine grain (esp at 1+1) and a fairly modern greyscale.</p>