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Kodak Tech Pan developing question?


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Photographer Formulary TD-3 is spectacular. Much better for "normal" negatives than Rodinal. Adding sodium sulphate to dilute Rodinal does help (google it, I forget what I used to do, but others, maybe on the Minox board will know).
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There is a fine line with Technical Pan between slightly high contrast and too much contrast. There used to be a list of developers you could use for Technical Pan at the unblinkingeye.com website. I have used the time shown for Microphen at 1:5 with some success.
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I second Ted: get rid of it. I still have 2/3 of long 35mm roll, no wish to deal with it any more. I tried Rodinal, Xtol, TD3 -- in proper (documented) dilutions and times, all failed. The only thing that produced usable negatives for me was Kodak developer Technidol, you still could find it in some places. It is expensive, finicky film that require a lot of learning.

Even if you will get good negative, how many roll do you have? Or you just do it to tell your grandchildren that you did it? Sure, they will be impressed...

 

Good luck,

--Sergei

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Marko, I have devved dozens of rolls of Tech Pan and, after trying it in Rodinal diluted 1-250 I never again bothered with "special" developers, including Technidol. Eddie Ephraums suggests a Rodinal dilution of 1-200 for Tech Pan, which I find a bit too contrasty; on the other hand my nerve used to fail when it came to diluting 1-300 (I always worried that it wouldn't quite do the job, although if Erik says it does then I will happily take his word for it). Even at my slightly stronger dilution of 1-250, I used to mix up 600 ml of solution for one roll of film just to ensure that there was enough active ingredient to carry development through all the way. Temperature was 20 degrees (strict), times between 12 and 15 minutes, depending on contrast required. Many people, myself included, found TP to be very sensitive to "streaking" which shows up as uneven development marks in the emulsion, usually caused by too vigorous tank agitation and/or failing to vary the agitation pattern during development. Also, of course, too strong a dev mixture, although if you go with 1-250 or 300 dilution this obviously won't be a problem. A final point: TP has an extended red sensitivity so, unless you want blues skies and green foliage to turn almost black I recommend that you don't use a red filter; I stuck to medium orange at the strongest. Good luck.
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P.S. I always rated it at its nominal speed of ISO 25. Agitation was a mixture of twirling with a "twiddle stick" for the first five seconds, (after tapping the base of the tank smartly on the worktop a few times to dislodge air bubbles) followed immediately by five or six inversions. I would then rest the tank for a few seconds before repeating the twirl/invert routine. Thereafter I would agitate briefly- 2 or 3 seconds- every minute, alternating between twirl and invert. Sorry for the long winded posting but, as some of the other respondants have said, TP is tricky stuff and you don't have a practice roll.
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