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Older cameras and light meters


erinrooney

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I am currently enrolled in a Black and White Photography course and I am using a

camera I borrowed from my Pop-Pop. The camera is a Mamiya/Sekor MSX 500 and he

probably purchased it sometime in the 70's. I have been unable to find a users

manual for this camera and since I'm still pretty new to film photography, I'm

still looking for tips on how to use specific features on my camera.

 

One thing specifically I know my camera is capable of doing is spot metering

with the light meter. According to an e-mail from my Pop Pop: "When the film

advance lever is 'out' you can push it in toward the camera body with your right

thumb and the metering changes from over all to spot meter -- it meters just the

dark spot in the viewfinder, or possibly it is the other way around, it's been a

long time."

 

Since he wasn't 100% sure if he was explaining it to me correctly, I was

wondering if anyone else had cameras with similar features that worked this way

as well. If anyone has any other interesting tricks I might not be aware of as

well, please let me know!<div>00OaBu-41968384.jpg.26b7c099096d8db8ec617504fb34c797.jpg</div>

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I'm not sure about this, but find out if you camera originally used mercury batteries, which

gave a constant voltage of 1.35V. If so, you do have alternate battery options today, but since

the voltage is a little different, it will affect the camera's meter. It's been my experience that

1.5V alkaline batteries will give you a reading that is two stops under and 1.4V zinc batteries

will be under by 2/3 stop, but the zinc batteries only last 4 months or so. The best way to

figure this out it to, if possible, compare the meter on your camera with another that you

know to have a properly calibrated meter - use the same lens, same ISO setting, meter the

same thing with each camera at the same time of day and see what gives.

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Erin -

 

I owned a Mamiya-Sekor camera for many years. My recollection is that it had a stop-down meter that was engaged by pressing the film advance lever. Mine had both spot and average metering, and there was a switch on the back of the camera to choose the function you desired.

 

In stop-down metering, the meter had no way to compensate for the prospective aperture setting of the lens. Hence, it was necessary to actually stop down to the shooting aperture to meter the scene.

 

The film advance lever is normally held against the back of the camera. To engage the meter, you first pull the lever away from the body to a detent position with the end of the lever about 1/4" away from the body. Then, you frame the subject with the area you want to meter in the circle you see in the viewfinder, and press the lever back toward the camera body. Pressing the lever turn on the meter and also stops down the lens to the hooting aperture. While holding the lever against the body, adjust the aperture setting on the lens to center the meter needle you see in the viewfinder. Then, release the lever and make your exposure. To return the camera to the off position, press down in the center of the top of the film advance lever - the lever will snap back to its locked position against the camera body.

 

My recollection about the battery is vague, but my sense is that Mamiya did not use mercury batteries in this camera. If so, you should be able to find replacement batteries.

 

Mamiya-Sekor cameras were at the lower end of the price range for 35mm SLRs. They were reasonably rugged but VERY heavy.

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I have had success with zinc-air batteries replacing the old mercury versions. Occasionally Walgreens & others will put hearing aid cells on sale at steep discounts. Yes, the cells only last 4-6 months, but getting 15-20 cells for $5-7, it works out reasonably, IMHO. Wein brand are excellent, but cost more. Also consider getting a minty hand-held light meter. This is a good investment given your classes etc. Also read the film box or spec sheets for measuring info. With practice, you can shoot a bunch without dwelling on metering.
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