Is $200 shipped a good price for a used canon 10D?

[lindamccague]

The seller was trying to sell for $250 + $20 for shipping on eBay. The auction

ended and there were no bids. I emailed seller asking if they would accept $200

shipped. They stated that they would. I just want to doulbe check that this is

a good price.

 

They state that it is body only (used), in working condition, does not include

battery.

 

I have a new Canon 40D, but I need a backup camera for a couple of weddings

this summer.

[remi_lemarchand]

That seems like a good deal - always check KEH.com for comparison.

 

Note that the 10D does not accept EF-S lenses....

[w_t1]

If it's this item number, 270204300768, it's been relisted. The 200 is ok if it works properly (I have a 10d), and you're ok with their warranty, but I prefer to buy used from KEH due to their 60-day return policy. (The "no battery" thing is not a big deal to me,Keh frequently doesn't include batteries or card, either.) This seller is "carolinapawn" which means to me cameras aren't their expertise. The few bucks saved on ebay aren't usually worth it to me, vs. KEH. Tom

[lindamccague]

Yes they relisted it for the $200 and then added the buy it now for me. They added the $19 on for shipping, but I guess that is ok. Thanks for the advice about KEH. I hadn't heard of them. I will check them out. I did just buy the camera on eBay. I'm saving my pennies for a 5D, so I hope to use the 10D temporarily and resell it.

 

Thank you for telling me that it won't accept EF-S lenses. I have a few EF lenses, and one EF-s, so that should be ok.

[PuppyDigs]

My have prices slipped. I sold a mint 10D with 2000 shutter cycles for $450 last summer.

[William Michael]

>>> Thank you for telling me that it won't accept EF-S lenses. I have a few EF lenses, and one EF-s, so that should be ok. <<<

 

IMO, NO, it will not be OK.

 

Not if your equipment list is still as it was when you wrote this:

 

`Canon 40D; 17-85 IS USM; 70-200 2.8L IS; 50 1.8; 580EX II flash. ` (op cit)

 

The 10D is being bought as a back up camera.

 

If the 40D fails when you arrive at the Bride`s House, you have no back up system for the whole event with a Field of View that is wider than 50mm on an APS-C.

 

This is tantamount to shooting the whole Wedding with an 80mm telephoto lens (in 135 format terms).

 

I am not stating this is an impossible task: I am just stating it will certainly NOT be OK.

 

In this regard a used 30D; 20D; 350D; 300D would be better choices.

 

WW

[KenPapai]

Exactly, as WWW says. I have a 10D and a 40D but by strategy have never bought into the EF-S thing. The slow EF-S 17-85 is not exactly an ideal lens for a wedding anyway.

[lindamccague]

I am purchasing the 24-70 2.8L in March and by the sounds of it I better purchase the EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L as well. I really want a Canon 5D, but I'm going to buy the glass first. I will also need a 2nd flash. WW, if I also aquire this additional equipment then will it be ok - equipment wise? I am also practicing my technical skills and am enrolled in a photography course/program now. I am going to be taking some photos of the B&G before their wedding so they can make their final decision if they want to use my services or not. They are looking for a cheap photographer as they just didn't want to rely on their relatives. I want to do a great job for them.

[zigzag]

Linda, you can get more wedding related info (equipment & tips) at : http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/

[ajpn]

If this 10D has excessive shutter releases then NO, it is not worth it. I'd heed the above advice.

[alan_myers]

Hi,

 

The 10D is a fine little backup camera. I have one as backup to two 30D users (presently). Some day I will upgrade to 40Ds, the 30Ds will become backups, and I might have the 10D converted to IR. Or I may just give it to a friend.

 

$219 seems a pretty good price, so long as it's 100% working.

 

But, then again I bought mine new for almost 10X that much so I know exactly where it's been and how it's been treated.

 

10D is a little slower to start up, has less sophisticated AF, and a (very) small LCD compared to your 40D.

 

One niggle I occasionally had with 10D was that it cannot shoot JPEG and RAW simultaneously, like the later Canon can. It uses the older "CRW" file format for RAW, which is fine, but cannot do RAW + JPEG This fact was important enough to me on occasion that I upgraded, but I've still kept the 10D as a good little backup.

 

On the other hand, the vertical battery grip for the 10D is, if anything, nicer than the BG-E2 for the later cameras. It had none of the "issues" like happened with earliest versions of the BG-E2, either.

 

Yes, 10D cannot use EF-S lenses, and you have one of those. The camera was designed and sold shortly before any EF-S lenses appeared.

 

However, there are some very good, wide third party ultrawide lenses that will work on it just fine, if you really need one. Your 70-200 will work fine on it. So will the 24-70 you plan to buy. I use that pair of lenses a great deal on all three of my D-SLRs.

 

For wide, I've considered adding a 12-24/4 Tokina, which seems a very good value for under $500, and would be usable on any of the 1.6X crop Canon. However, I've been "making do" pretty well with an older 17-35/2.8L and 20/2.8 as my wide lenses, so haven't rushed out to add another lens yet. There are Sigma and Tamron ultrawide zooms available, too.

 

Tip: I've bought a number of generic batteries off eBay for a whole lot less than Canon OEM (About $7 apiece average, incl. ship, instead of $49 apiece, plus ship for the OEMs!) I've been using some of the generics for three years now, with no problems. They are higher power capacity than the Canon batts, too.

 

Any time you buy a used camera for use, try to get some sort of warranty or right to return it for a refund. You need to be able to check it out at least briefly and make sure it works. eBay sellers want to sell "as is", but if they say it's 100% working in their ad, and it's not, then they have essentially nullified the "as is" proviso. So many just act dumb: "Gee. We don't know anything about cameras, but this one seems to work. Still, because we have no way to test it and don't know how it works, we're selling it as is."

 

I'd steer clear of any seller who won't at least back up what they are selling that it won't be DOA, give you a few days to check it out and allow you to return it if it isn't fully working. (DOA = "Dead on arrival", I suppose I should clarify.)

 

"As is, working condition unknown" might be acceptable for a collectible, but it is not for a camera that's going to be used and relied upon.

 

Note: I've bought a number of collectible cameras off eBay. But, all my daily users have always come from vendors like B&H, KEH, Adorama, etc.

 

I'd be more inclined to buy a user camera locally off Craig's list, where I can go and check out the camera thoroughly myself before handing over my money. But, I've used, handled, bought and sold hundreds of cameras over the past 30 years so am pretty comfortable doing that. Tips: If doing this, download the manual for any unfamiliar camera first so that you better know how it works and what to check out. Also, take along lenses, compact flash card and the correct batteries to run some tests, if the sale doesn't include them. Also take a flash light to look inside the camera, peer through any lenses, etc. If you have a laptop preloaded with Canon DPP s'ware, it can be handy to quickly check some test images for dead pixels, banding or any other problem that might not be visible on an LCD.

 

Finally, looking at a friend's 20D last evening, we discovered another small but (for me) key difference between it and the later cameras, that I've never seen mentioned anywhere before or have just overlooked. The 20D and earlier have only two modes of "Auto Rotate": on and off. Later cameras have three modes: on for camera and computer, on for computer only and off. I use the second mode on my 30D all the time. This way allows viewing vertical images on the LCD significantly larger (which the 1.8" screen on the 10D & 20D could certainly use, but can't do), but still saves time and a lot of hand work by auto rotating the thumbnails on the computer when downloading the images.

 

 

[Spearhead]

<i>One niggle I occasionally had with 10D was that it cannot shoot JPEG and RAW simultaneously, like the later Canon can. </I><p>This is incorrect. The 10D can shoot jpeg and raw at the same time, but embeds the jpeg in the raw file. They can be separated easily with the Canon software. It's one extra step, but it you want to have both, you can.

[William Michael]

>>> I am purchasing the 24-70 2.8L in March and by the sounds of it I better purchase the EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L as well. I really want a Canon 5D, but I'm going to buy the glass first. I will also need a 2nd flash. WW, if I also [acquire] this additional equipment then will it be ok - equipment wise? <<< (LMcC)

 

 

So this is the basis of the kit (plus lots of batteries, memory cards etc) we will have for the Wedding:

 

 

Canon 40D; Canon 10D; 17-85 IS USM; 70-200 2.8L IS; 50 1.8; 580EX II flash; (and to come). . . 24 to 70F2.8L; Extra Flash.

 

 

The answer to your question, IMO, YES, you are covered equipment wise.

 

 

Obviously this is really not a question for a one sentence answer, please indulge me:

 

 

The minor chink in the armour is you have no NORMAL to WIDE and FAST. (i.e. faster than F2.8 at FL 17mm to 30mm (translates to FoV equivalent 28 to 50mm for 135 format).

 

 

[ASIDE] In this regard I do NOT think the 16 to 35F2.8L is the answer: it is still only F2.8. and it is a very expensive lens, and although it fits as a beautiful companion with the 40D and 5D future combination, IMO you can get by with 24mm on the 40D for all Weddings IF you know how to arrange large groups, so better to save the money for the NECESSARY 5D and NOT use it op on a LUXURY 16 to 35. (Think Professionally i.e. Business thinking)

 

 

Now this lack of a fast wide lens is a MINOR chink, and it would be apparent and could cause grief if, for example, you had a large Bridal party (three B. Maids + Flower Girl) and a short aisle and a darkish Church and there was a `No Flash Rule`.

 

 

Think about it, the Processional and Recessional shots would be really difficult, because essentially you will be attempting to get it all done with the FoV of an 80mm lens in 135 format, (i.e. your 50F1.8)

 

 

The same applies to the Bride`s home, you are limited to shooting Available light shallow DoF work at F2.8 for any Normal or Wide FoV using the 24 to 70, any f1.8 to f2.4.work must be done at the short telephoto length of the 50mm F1.8, which is OK, it just need to be known prior so it can be planned.

 

 

So IMO, it is about knowing these limitations and thinking IF these limitations apply to THIS specific job: and if they do, have a work around in place.

 

 

As a starting point (individual style dictates) perhaps the 24 to 70 on the 40D and the 50mmF1.4 on the 10D for Available Light (tight) portraiture at Bride`s Home and Church. (Note: the 10D has a start up lag)

 

 

In good light, the 17 to 85 (at F8 or so) might be more useful than the 70 to 200 for anything at 85mm, but in reality it is your lens for the range 17mm to 24mm SHOULD you need that FL range and this lens could be used for the IS, SHOULD you need IS through the 17mm to 70mm range.

 

 

Note well the values and limitations of IS: it will NOT freeze the subject`s movements, only sufficient shutter sped will do that. and in that regard the 24 to 70 and the 50 have the speed.

 

 

Obviously, the second flash will be mounted on the 10D and the fallback, should the 40D go down is the 24 to 70 on the 10D with the 50F1.8 in your pocket should there be a now flash rule in the ceremony.

 

 

If there is an equipment problem, then the first procedure is to get the second camera running to ensure coverage of the NECESSITIES: the artistic and creative stuff WAITS until your head is in order and back on top of the situation.

 

 

Your specific question to me here was about the equipment, and its safety (for redundancy) and I feel I have adequately addressed that issue, and perhaps given more food for consideration: I however would like to refer to other matters here and within your previous post, on which I commented and quoted above on this thread.

 

 

To me: `I did just buy the camera on eBay. I'm saving my pennies for a 5D, so I hope to use the 10D temporarily and resell it.` (op cit)

 

 

Was an impetuous action.

 

 

And after that action, it seems to me, one was seeking some reassurance for it: all the comments above might have given reassurance or might have given one pause to consider that a mistake might have been made.

 

 

The important thing is . . . all of that is now irrelevant.

 

 

If indeed you have bought the 10D, the important point is to check the 10D and ensure it functions well and become familiar with its actions and usage.

 

 

Do NOT treat it as the `back up` camera, use it as equally as the 40D, this is VERY important, because:

 

 

Firstly you can use it, (with the 50mm for example) at the Bride`s home to grab some nice tight Available Light shots in tandem with the bounced flash coverage using the 24 to 70 on the 40D, without lens changes and thus get more quality shots in the coverage.

 

 

Secondly, if the 40D does cark, the 10D will be second nature to you.

The other comment I make is I see you have two PLANS, medium and long term: from the previous post, you have analysed the needs and decided that the 24 to 70 is the answer for you, because the 5D is long term, and also you need a short stop gap for the upcoming Wedding and the answer for that is the 10D.

 

 

 

A synopsis of a previous post of yours:

 

 

`Do you think I have any talent? (edit) Is starting weddings this way (by just jumping in) getting over my head. ` (op cit)

 

 

And a synopsis of my answer:

 

 

`Proactive with system redundancy; experience; and a solid plan is good.

 

 

Proactive with adequate gear, but little experience and ego and grit is possible, and sometimes dangerous and an adrenaline rush.

 

 

Proactive with dead camera; dead flash; lens too slow and big egg on face: is business suicide.` (op cit)

 

 

It seems to me that very little is about to dissuade you from your proactive approach. It seems to me that you have many plans which encompass a wide range of issues relevant to being a Professional Photographer, and it seems to me that you have ego, but the maturity and life experience to keep it under wraps and bring it out when needed and the ability to ask questions and sift through the answers and apply what is relevant to your specific situation. And it seems to me you have grit.

 

 

So that only leaves one possible closing comment: I spit in your eye chook, go on, and break a leg.

 

 

Regards

 

WW

 

 

P.S. Please drop me a line in a few years time, when you are a well known success.

[joe_ethridge]

Linda,

 

IMHO, you got a great deal, providing the camera works, of course. I own a 10D and a 5D

and use both during weddings. I agree with much that has been stated already. I love the

10D for it's lack of noise. Not digital noise, but actual shutter and mirror noise. It is very

quite and with a 50mm/f1.4 or f1.8 lens, it allows me some great shots, with out flash at

approx. an 80mm length.

 

Good luck!

Joe