Pouring the developer~

[henri_straat]

Hi,

 

I was just wondering what the best system is for pouring developer into a two

reel plastic Jobo tank? I checked with the search engine but there is some

contradictory opinions. Is it true that the initial part of developing is the

most critical? So,

 

Is it best to pour the developer into the tank fast or slow? Does the fast

method of pouring cause streaking?

 

Is it best to tilt the tank 45 degrees or have its base flat on the bench?

 

AND

 

Do you bang out the air bubbles before the initial 30 seconds of agitation or

after?

 

Still new to this so if possible please relate your experience with this ^!^

 

Thanks in advance,

 

henri

[thirteenthumbs]

Which tank do you have 1500 series or 2500 series? Air from inside the tank vents out thru vents in the outer primiter of the opening in the tank top while the fluid goes down the center on the 2500 series, I assume the 1500 are simular. Double 35mm reel stanless steel tanks vent and fill around the edge on some. Pouring the fluid into the tank too fast will cause the fluid to be spattered around the work area by the air exiting the tank. Load the reels with with some test film and insert them into the tank, put the lid on, and fill it with water at different speeds and angles and see what works best for the tanks you have. Tap the tank once full then put the cap on then do the first inversions, a 3 to 5 second delay will not adversely affect the outcome. It is recomended to fill the tank full but some on this site claim that a little air space at the top is necessary to get good agitation, it is not. The most important part of processing is consistency-agaitate at the same time interval throughout, agaitate the same number of inversions-have the chemicals and wash water at the same temperature with a +/- 1⁰ varration maximun.

[ronald_moravec1]

I have a Paterson Super System4-two reel. The best thing about it is I can pour it in as fast as it will go. The developer runs down the center tube and fills the tank from the bottom.

 

The general principle being the wet/dry edge starts in one place, the bottom in this case, and proceeds across the film quickly and without stopping or retreating. Do not twist it around as this causes retreating and reforming the edge marking the film possibly. Set it on the bench, fill, stick the twister in and rotate 1/4 turn in five sec for 30 sec, then cap without disturbing the tank and wait for the next agitation. All subsequent agitations will be by inversions, 2 in 5 sec.

 

You need the reel tube/funnel and twister to make it work.

[rick_jones5]

I can't give you any specific advice because I don't use Jobo but thought a couple of comments might be of help. Consistency is more important than precisely what steps you finally settle on. While temperature control of the developer is important my experience shows that you can take a much more relaxed attitude about the stop, fix and wash (say +/- 10 degrees). Use common sense and examine your results carefully. For example, look for evenness of development especially in sky areas. Don't change your process without a reason and when you make a change, change only one thing at a time or separating cause and effect will be very difficult. While it is great to try and get things right from the get go when push comes to shove "just do it". THEN when you hit a bump photo.net to the rescue!

[keith_lubow]

Soak first, pour as fast as possible without spilling, do not wait to start agitating, and do it exactly the same way every time, and you should not have any problems with unevenness. That last item is the most important, as I am sure most would tell you.

 

Keith

[chris_waller]

I use a Paterson tank but the following still applies.

 

Pour the dev in as quickly and smoothly as possible (i.e. try to avoid frothing the developer). I give six inversions in the first 30 seconds, then rap the tank on the heel of my hand three or four times to dislodge air bubbles.

 

I then invert the tank once every 30 seconds. Between inversions I let the tank stand on a level surface.

 

Just one additional point - I pre-soak. I didin't use to but after a run of streaky negs I decided to start pre-soaking and since then I have never had a streaked neg.

[john_stockdale2]

The Jobo design unfortunately limits the speed with which you can fill. This might cause some minor inconsistencies with an extended tank with many reels, but two is still quick. Fast and smooth is best as long as you don't spill any.

 

The bubbles need to be dislodged as soon as possible!

 

I agitate vigorously for the first 2min, then less than most people thereafter. But I think that the style of agitation is probably less important than being consistent, as everyone has already said.

[tripanfal]

I use the Patterson tanks also. A 2 reel and a 5 reel. I lost the twisty things long ago. I just pour as fast as the tank will swallow it and when it's full, snap on the cover, "burp" it, invert six inversions in the first 15-30 seconds (roughly) like chris, rap it on the counter a couple times and wait for the next inversion. I start timing when I start pouring. I have not had a streak/bubble/uneven development yet. I routinely do 5 rolls at a whack in Diafine and

D-76.

 

I don't presoak either, unless the developer specifies it.

 

...and to be consistent with the comments above,be consistent with your technique :)

[yann1]

I put the developper in the tank first, put the film on the reel and then put it in the tank. That's my way. I've never heard about anyone doing it like me, nor have I heard or seen any problem doing it this way. I find this more convenient.

[keith_lubow]

Yann's way is technically the "best", as all the film hits the developer at the same time. You obviously have to do it in a pitch black room until you get the cap on. It's not necessary, though. With a pre soak step, the pour time should not matter all that much. Even without it, you are fine, unless your total development time is very short (under 5 minutes or so).

 

Keith