Embarrassing Flash admission!

[darrenbeattyphotography]

Ok. So I admit it. Here I've been taking pictures for years, started out as

everyone else. Low on the totem pole, took college classes (was forced too, and

realized how much I enjoyed photography.) So I'll just ask. I dont know

ANYTHING about flashes. I know I'm not the only guy out there that is beyond

the amateur level with his abilities, and has had these questions. I simply

havent had many situations where I have needed a flash (I started out only

doing sports photography and landscapes for 99% of my work.) So as embarrassed

as I am to admit this, does anyone have any tips to get started? I tried to see

if Thom had a write up, but he just has reviews. I am working with a D200 and

havent the foggiest clue as to reasons why I would need a SB-300,400,600,800,

or what i-ttl is, and a defuser card. To name a few of my questions. I'm .1

second away from just hitting the big X in the top corner of the screen, so

before I do that.....

[bill_keane2]

The SB-600/800 flashes communicate with the D200 so that information like ambient light, lens aperture setting, lens focal length, shutter speed setting, subject distance, all can be used in calculating the best flash output -- intelligent Through The Lens metering. A diffser card spreads the light out, softening the effect so subjects look less harshly lit... You point the flash up, it hits the ceiling, and the diffuser sends some light to the subject directly.

[jeroen dommisse]

I don't us my flashes often, but would love to learn more. I've been reading quite a bit about the subject. This is a good start, explaining both the Nikon flash system and giving tips on flash use: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/flash.htm

 

Also, a nice place to learn more would be http://www.strobist.blogspot.com, a nice blog about off camera flash use.

[Matthew Brennan]

Great concise answer Bill!

[darrenbeattyphotography]

So what you're saying is the flash will work with the camera in the settings so that the flash is almost always a fill type flash? Images will not be overexposed? What will help get rid of the dreaded flash shadow behind indoor portraits?

[Peter_in_PA]

Usually the only way to totally get rid of the dreaded flash shadow in a photo for sure is to

use multiple flashes, but bouncing can do it sometimes, too.

 

Think of the flash/camera connection this way. With the iTTL system (and some others as

well) when you attach the flash, it and teh camera become one entity. They work totally

together.

 

With the D200 if you buy an SB800 or even an SB600 (or two flashes) you can control them

with the built-in flash, and put them off camera for some great stuff.

 

I LOVE flash.

[toddcwilson]

Here are some additional helpful links:

 

http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

 

http://www.abetterbouncecard.com

[ellis_vener_photography]

"What will help get rid of the dreaded flash shadow behind indoor portraits?"

 

three things:

 

1.) Getting the flash away from from the camera, usually up higher.

 

2.) Moving the subject farther away from the background

 

3.) Turning what is a small "hard" light source into a larger one by using the flash in a softbox,an umbrella or using a large diffusion screen between the falsh and and the subject.

 

I'd try the first two first as they are both easier to achieve, easier to manipulate, and less expensive.

[woolly1]

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

[rudymerz]

Darren,

 

My suggestion would be :

 

Magic Lantern Guides 'Nikon AF Speedlight Flash System' - Simon Stafford. ISBN-13:

978-1-57990-588-0

 

There should be all the information you need.

[forma photography]

I have a Nikon D70 and have used the SB800 as a master, with the SB600 as the slave. Even when setting the camera to custom settings-manual flash-commander mode, I have found inconsistent results, both indoor and outdoor. The SB600 doesn't fire consistently, and it seems that "line of sight" is an issue. The two flashes just don't communicate consistently, especially when an umbrella blocks the line of sight from the master flash.

 

I regret buying the SB600 for use as a slave, because I can't help but think that I could have bought a second SB800 instead and then set it to SU-4, thereby triggering it once it sees another light source go off. The SB-600 doesn't have the SU-4 function available.

[scottconners]

Start with a SB-600 or SB-800 on camera. Learn to use flash compensation to dial down fill flash, and learn to use bounce flash. Play with the Nikon CLS system, using your pop-up flash to command the speedlight wirelessly off camera. It's a really great way to learn about how off-camera flash can affect your lighting without having to also learn how to meter your flash at the same time. Then you can start using the off-camera SB-800 in manual mode, and move on to using it in a strobist type setup.

[35mmdelux]

i have no idea how to use flash unless its on my D200 and I can review the shot and adjust, otherwise its a guessing game for me.

[lex_jenkins]

I can relate, Darren. During my first decades in photography I avoided having to learn anything about the use of artificial lighting, whether flash or studio hot lights. Somehow the instructor let me slide on those sections. My interest was candid photography of people in ordinary situations (this was before I'd ever heard the term "street photography"), fine art and photojournalism.

 

Occasionally I was forced to use flash, such as when photographing weddings for family and friends. But I never learned to enjoy it.

 

But I was beginning to appreciate not only the necessity of artificial lighting, but how it could be used creatively.

 

When I got the D2H it was with the idea in mind that the SB-800 would add to my overall enjoyment and versatility. And it hasn't disappointed. For my first 30 years of photography I probably used flash less than 5% of the time. Now I'm using it closer to 50% of the time.

 

Good TTL flash is not only easier to use, it really enhances the quality of some photos. I use bounce flash routinely indoors to bring out the eyes of my "victims" (as I refer to my poor family and friends, who have learned to tolerate my everpresent camera). The clarity of color and detail in the irises can be stunning.

 

A good TTL flash system (which includes the capabilities of the camera as well) can enable use of flash at almost any aperture. This was impossible with non-TTL auto thyristor flashes, which usually give the option of only two apertures, based on ISO. The SB-800 also offers auto thyristor mode for use with non-TTL cameras (such as my F3HP and FM2N), but the flash output is almost infinitely more flexible to allow for better control over DOF.

 

In the past I lost a lot of the spontaneity of the moment because it took so long to calculate the appropriate flash exposure. Now it's pretty much point and shoot. With practice I've learned to tweak the flash exposure settings up or down a fraction of an EV, but it's a far cry from having to calculate exposures.

[cenelsonfoto]

99% of my flash work is done with the flash off the camera, attached SC17. I hold the flash in my left hand, and operate the camera with the right, using either an 18-35mm AF IF-ED lens, or more recently, a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8. In a pinch, I might mount the speedlight on a monopod. I prefer, absolutely, to use an assistant holding a piece of scored and tri-folded foam-core for work that doesn't require me to scurry about, as in shoots allowing me time to take multiple frames, seeking the best light.

<p />

Sounds kooky, but I swear it works. Bouncing off a piece of 'core really wraps the subjects. It's as close as I can get to studio-quality light while working out-doors without the time and equipment/budget to properly set-up umbrellas, etc.

<p />

Here's a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34432914@N00/sets/72157602597763508">link</a> to a just-completed series of shots done over the last two weekends.<p />

Note: I first used a speedlight a bit over a year ago. It's been a very fun ride getting to this point, but I am now confident enough to shoot both flash and camera in manual mode, modifying settings on both units as needed to get what I want. I generally use an SB25 as the main source, carrying 2 SB26 units in addition which make nice back-lights if needed, due to the built-in optical slaves.

<p />

Indeed, read the Strobist essays and jump on in. The water's just right.<p />

C.<p />

<i>Nikon D70s, Tamron 28-75mm/f2.8, single SB25 on SC17, my daughter holding a piece of foamcore to my left and behind slightly. Hard to argue with the output.</i><p />

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34432914@N00/1795810858/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2401/1795810858_a15e7c822f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Fall Portrait Sessions" /></a>

[darrenbeattyphotography]

Amazingly detailed answers guys. I really appreciate you taking the time to chime in! Lex, I truely hear your point... you really know you have been avoiding using a flash, when I dont even know the terminology. :-/ Thats pretty bad. I'm going to have to learn all of this stuff eventually. Since I've taken some family shots I was asked to assist at a wedding, and I was embarrassed (and didnt tell them) but I declined because of my lack of experience with flash and indoor photography. I dont want that to happen again. :/

[steve_renwick]

Darren,

 

Once you've picked out a flash unit, the most valuable thing to do would be to shoot a bunch of frames, indoors and outdoors, methodically cycling through all the different settings. For instance put the camera on a tripod and shoot twenty pictures of your cat snoozing on the couch, each with a different setting. You can only get so much from reading.

[darrenbeattyphotography]

Steve, I completely agree. You can only chat so much. Most of it has to be from shooting. I explain it to folks like shooting hoops to become a better b-ball player. Or just putting in laps to become a fast sportbike racer. Thats a good tip though. I have just utilized the "*looks at LCD* DELETE" function the most when photos arent up to par. I'm going to get a flash sometime soon, but it seems there are so many options, and some of the more expensive ones do not have the ability to point up or away to bounce. WHich I found weird. At any rate, seems I'll be learning all over again with settings. Camera will be here tomorrow! :D

[lex_jenkins]

Yeh, I've always regretted avoiding those lighting courses when I was studying photography in school as a kid. It's easier to learn stuff when you're younger and the brain isn't full of whatever the hell it is that fills up our brains when we get old.

 

BTW, I finally learned a few things about lighting when I got involved in community theatre years later. It really paid to listen to lighting designers. A lot of what I learned from those folks has been adapted to my photography.

[john_enman]

Darren, Get yourself an sb600 or if ya want to get into multiple flash work an sb800 and shoot away. Join the Nikonians and take the first class they offer in your area on the SB-flash system. (money and time well spent)

I love using a flash and always have. Unless I am photographinig a landscape I rarely make a picture without a flash attached to my camera. And on those very rare occasions when I did make a portrait w/out a flash I wished I did use one. Digital gives you a chance for immediate feedback and problem solving at no cost. John

[darrenbeattyphotography]

John thanks. I appreciate your and Lex's help. I looked at the SB600, it doesnt "appear" to be the style that tilts? I am probably wrong. I'm having a problem with the new camera, Tamron lenses mount, but when i went to get the new 50mm 1.8D out of the box to mount it, it wont mount all the way, and it gets tight. Not wanting to break anything, i just stopped and put the camera away since I was late to work. Kind of a tease to get a camera in the mail and get 15 minutes with it before I had to leave. If anyone knows why the 50mm 1.8 wont mount up easily, please share!!!! (D200)

[darrenbeattyphotography]

Im home, and figured out the problem. Its just new. Its tight. A much tighter fit lens than my tamrons. Disregard my stupidity.

[ilkka_nissila]

You should have a look at some wedding photography books. They have excellent advice on flash lighting in various situations.

 

With a single on camera flash it's difficult to avoid the shadow entirely. By using an enormous reflector/diffuser on the flash you can do pretty well but then everybody will wonder about your gear .... no free lunch :-)

 

I like to use two flashes off the camera, one with an umbrella, and the other with a small reflector. Sometimes I have one of the flashes on the camera and other times both are set up at fixed positions. I use CLS for ease of setting up.

 

With the new technology that is coming up ... bodies like the D3 will allow you to shoot in available light in remarkably dark environments. I'm not sure if that body isn't a better investment than a set of flashes.

[john_enman]

Darren, The SB600 is pretty much the same as the SB800, tilt head and all- a bit less power.

Books are a good idea and there is lots on the internet (Remember the Nikonians)

Using high ISO for everything and omitting the flash may be convienient, but you will see lots of unattractive shadows. Don't get drawn in by the technology marketing. I don't shoot sports, so I really don't need a camera capable of a high ISO. I photograph weddings. Learning to use a flash will give you better portraites than without flash. Unless you are using reflectors.

[darrenbeattyphotography]

Thanks John. I have a lot to learn. I am seeing now, it is almost like relearning everything. Completely different ballgame than the track. I'm looking at it in a positive way though.