Can photo-flo contamination ruin developer?

[michael_oneill2]

Yesterday I processed a role of T-max 100 in T-max developer, 20 degrees

celsius, 1:4 for about 7 minutes, using the standard agitation. The film came

out completely clear, not even the markings on the frame. My controls are good

and I've used this method in the past with good results.

 

I mixed the developer fresh. The only thing that I can figure out is that the

measuring cup I used to mix the developer probably had some photo-flo residual.

I had last processed film about a week ago, and the container was dry, but

there were a lot of sudsy bubbles when I poured the developer into the tank.

I'm guessing that I hadn't rinsed the container after using it for the photo-flo.

 

I'm pretty sure it was a developer problem because when I poured it out of the

tank it was very dark, something between purple and black. Usually it's much

lighter.

 

I am sure that I did not "develop" with fixer, because I always process one shot

and mixed the batch directly from the manufacturer's bottle. The stock was

relatively fresh, I've had it about a month. I used it last week without incident.

 

I've googled this site and the internet and cannot find any other reports of

this happening. Anybody else have this experience, or am I missing something?

[mikeseb]

Photo-Flo is just detergent; it seems unlikely that you'd get completely clear negatives if the

developer were contaminated with "residual" from your measuring cup. Completely clear

negatives, without even the frame markings, indicates that no development whatsoever took

place. This means either 100% exhausted developer, or no developer at all, prior to fixing.

 

I'm betting you developed with fixer; or else when diluting your developer, you forgot to add

the concentrate to the water. (Both of these things have happened to me!)

[nbg90455]

I'll let the (chemistry) experts answer that one, but I would doubt that even large amounts of PhotoFlo would cause that...

[kim_kolakowski]

Some processes require pre-wetting the film in a Photo-Flo water bath. I think you can rest assured that photo-flo is not your problem.

Kim

[terence_spross1]

Mixed the developer from what? - Was the concentrate old - perhpas very brown in color?

[evan_goulet]

<I>"I'm pretty sure it was a developer problem because when I poured it out of the tank it was very dark, something between purple and black. Usually it's much lighter."</i><P> - This sounds an awful lot like whatever you used during the development stage dissolved away the antihalation layer and silver...

[michael_oneill2]

<i>"Photo-Flo is just detergent; it seems unlikely that you'd get completely clear negatives if the developer were contaminated with "residual" from your measuring cup. Completely clear negatives, without even the frame markings, indicates that no development whatsoever took place. This means either 100% exhausted developer, or no developer at all, prior to fixing."</i><br><br>

 

I'm beginning to wonder if I mixed photo-flow instead of developer. They're both Kodak bottles and I could have grabbed it quickly without paying too much attention. That would explain all the sudsy bubbles and the complete lack of development. I'll have to check this out when I get back home...

[william_john_smith1]

<I>Some processes require pre-wetting the film in a Photo-Flo water bath.</I><P>Which

process may that be?

[Fotohuis RoVo]

A wetting agent will not disturb the developping process however you will have foam building.

 

Looking at the complete blank film, you have developed with fix or water (with photo-flo).

[kim_kolakowski]

Aerial film , when processed in a rewind system must be pre wetted before the film is imersed into the dev. Usually only B+W aerial film was rewind processed ( some still use it today) but I have heard of some folks using it for color film development.

Pre soaking sheet film before development was not uncommon, back in the day, and was the subject of considerable debate, as re: its value.

Kim

[john_singletary1]

When tray processing 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 film it is standard to prewet the film in photo flo for 2-4 minutes to remove the anti-halation dyes from the film before placing it in the developer. There is no possible way that photoflo will contaminate developer.

 

-John

[william_john_smith1]

<I>Pre soaking sheet film before development was not uncommon</I><P>Pre soaking in

PhotoPlo was and is. No reason in the world to use PhotoPlo when pre soaking.

[michael_oneill2]

Well, I guess the title of this thread can now officially be changed to "I am a dope." I "developed" the film in photo-flo, not developer. But we learned something, that photo-flo is absolutely worthless as a developer. Thanks for all the good and quick answers.

[alberto greco]

Did you expose the film..? ;-)

[terence_spross1]

alberto : note Michael said there were no edge markings either.

 

I don't think you processed it in photo-flo as photo-flo and water will not be very dark. I'm thinking your developer was ruined before you mixed it. This can happen in a powder mix if there is a hole in the bag and air can get in over time. Even though you mixed "fresh" just before you used it. It was already completely oxidised. Same thing can happen with liquid developer concentrates when not capped well. Or the concentrates were very old.

[patrick_gainer]

There was a time when I could not develope TMX without getting airbells unless I prewet it with some wetting agent, usually a dishwashing detergent quite well diluted. It only helped and never turned dark. I cannot see how Photo Flo could do that. It would be worth an experimental sacrifice of a roll of film just to see if it could, but not to me. Fixer wouldn't turn dark whether the film was developed or not. Try it some time also.