andrew_vorobyov Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I am given D76 developer in the photo club which I'm a member of. I wouldn'treally want to buy another developer unless I have a really good reason to. How would you develop efke25 in D76? I'd like to keep the rating at ISO25 or lower it to ISO12. What's would you recommend as the "best" dilution and time? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 If you look inside the box the film came in there are recomendations for D76, for 5 min at 68 degrees. I use this time and temp and have gotten beautiful negs. Here I was doing a lens test on a 85mm 1.8 nikkor and shot it on ETKE 25 at 25.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_vorobyov Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 Thanks Michael I'm sorry, I didn't really get the box yet. I ordered one EFKE25 and two aristas 100s and they should arrive soon. Did you pre-wet the emulsion? Wouldn't that affect the developent time because the developer gets to the silver layer faster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjun_mehra Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I was growing interested in Efke 25 myself, recently. Let me know what you think of it. To my knowledge it's the slowest B&W film currently on the market, no one else making an ASA 25 (or slower) product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I do not pre-soak my film,and I do not get streaks. I try and keep my developing times not too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee_shively Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I've used D76 1:1 for 7.5 minutes at 68 F and gotten good results. It's been a while since I used this film and I've only used it in medium format. It's a good idea to bracket exposures for both EI 25 and EI 50. I don't remember specifics but I sort of remember that EI 25 is for artifical light and EI 50 is for daylight exposures. Efke 25 has a lovely tonality but the film I've used had numerous pinholes and foreign matter spots throughout. The apparent inconsistent quality control makes me hesitate to use this film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_vorobyov Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 Michael - did you use 1:1 dilution of D76? Arjun - this is the only ISO25 I found in rolls, but BH has rollei ISO25, but it's not cheap. I wanted something to use with my Olympus RF with 1/500 shutter in the sun and NOT stop down the lens completely. EDIT: I lied. Rollei is also available in rolls. I would've ordered it instead if I knew... :( I'll post a couple pictures in two weeks, but I would only be able to report on any obvious defects like streaking, debris or pinholes as Lee Shively mentions. I never used an ISO25 film before, so I can't really compare... plus I'm using club chemicals which may be inconsistent and print my BW stuff with really high contrast. Lee Shively - is the rating difference due to inside light being more red and the non panchromatic film being more sensitive to blue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Andrew , I used D76 straight.I have shot about 10 rolls of the film at different times , all 35mm , with out any problems of pinholes,or manufacturing problems with the film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken_kartes Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I have shot about 6 rolls of their iso 25 film and the only thing I noticed the film likes to stay curled. Beautiful film! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willscarlett Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I've used Efke 25 in 35mm and medium format. D-76 straight will give you really nice negs as long as you've properly exposed your shots. I always pre-soak this and have never had issues with curling and inconsistent quality control. Since you're using such a fine grained film, you could also develop this in Rodinal for better tonality, enhanced sharpness and better contrast seperation. Remember that Efke 25 and Efke 50 are orthopanchromatic films, so they'll be less sensitive to red light and more sensitive to blue, which will render your grays slightly differently than you're used to. This film also has more contrast. Rollei does make two ASA 25 emulsions, but they are pricier than the Efke 25. There's Rollei Pan 25 (panchromatic) and Rollei Ortho 25 (orthochromatic) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patric_dahl_n Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Efke 25 at 20 ASA, D-76 1+1 20C for 8 minutes. Works very well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotohuis RoVo Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Efke 25 only is less red sensitive. Rollei PAN25 is panchromatic. Here a comparision between the two 25 iso films: http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/rollei_pan25.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_vorobyov Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 Thank you all. I like my negs a bit denser, so I'll probably start off at 7.5 minutes with D76 1:1 and see where it takes me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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