For Scott Pickering Plus-X in D-76 1:1

[stephen sullivan]

Here is the Plus-X in D-76 1:1

 

This was shot one day earilier, Thursday, April 12th

 

EOS 1 w/ EF 28mm f/1.8 USM @ f/8 w/ B+W 040 & Tripod

 

A bit more High Thin Clouds that day.<div></div>

[stephen sullivan]

Space Needle<div></div>

[stephen sullivan]

Center Buildings<div></div>

[stephen sullivan]

Lower Right<div></div>

[stephen sullivan]

The Ekfe 25, Acros 100 & Plus-X are striaght scans with the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000ED @

4000dpi.

 

NO Sharpening or change of Levels.

 

So Far, my favorite is the Plus-X. Next week, I'll be in California where I'm going to pick up

my roll of Delta 100 & 400 processed in Xtol Stock. I'll post those Mid May.

[User_502260]

I think your Plus-X shots are the best of the bunch.

[john_gleason1]

Thanks, Stephen --- this series has been quite useful!

[25asa]

Not sure the sizing is the same in all shots (Space Needle looks smaller in 1 over other?). The grain on Acros 100 is pretty good from what I see, but I agree with the other that Plus X has the best character in these shots. But I would wonder how much of that was effected from shooting the previous day? Efke is definately softer (Ive heard it both ways with Efke 25- soft and sharp). No one seems to agree on that film what it really is. Also its red sensitivity seems to change the tones in these shots. Look at the sky and how much grey tones there are over the other two. I still think Efke 25 is a great film and its more suited for people shots then maybe landscapes, but its good for that too. Not bad for a 1954 technology film. Seeing Acros would not sway me from using Efke 25 or even TMAX 100 that is. The Plus X surprised me though. It does look better then the other two shots, but just a touch grainier. Makes me wanna break out that 4x5 Plus X I have stashed in my freezer.

[stephen sullivan]

Sizing, isn't the same in each shot. From where I placed and lined up my camera each day, is close enough to be called the same.

 

I just wanted to show the difference between the three films. To show the gain stucture and how the films resolve fine detail.

 

When I made an 11x14 print from the Plus-X, you barly notice the grain. Your eyes just glaze over it. If I were going to make something bigger than 16x20, I'd switch to TMX or Acros 100.

 

Plus-X and Tri-X in D-76 1:1 is such a great combo.

[bob_the_builder1]

The comparison is only valid if you shoot under exactly the same lighting conditions -

something you have not done by shooting a day in between...

[stephen sullivan]

You're correct Bob. Yes, Plus-X was shot the prior day. Much more cloud cover.

 

And, you're incorrect Bob. The Fuji Acros 100 Frame 34 and Efke 25 Frame 1 where shot in under 10 minutes of each other. Each time, absolutely no clouds behind me or over me.

 

How long does it take to shoot in AEB Mode [34 - 35 - 36], maybe 5 seconds? Then take out Fuji Acros, then load Efke 25 and put back in AEB Mode, maybe 1 minute. Time between Fuji #34 and Efke #1? Minimum 5 minutes, max 10 minutes.

 

The test is valid enough for me. The difference between Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:50 and Acros 100 in D-76 1:1

[jtk]

Scanning, I think you can have PX characteristics with Acros if you want them. How did you rate your films? N?

 

You seem to have suggested that you don't process your own film...did I misread?

 

Incidentally, Acros works beautifully at 200ei (R-09, presumably Rodinal too) if speed's a concern. Add 1/4-1/3 to time.

[stephen sullivan]

I rate all my film at box speed, with the exception of Fuji's Acros 100. I rate the film at EI 64. I will say, for the test day, I would of been better at rating the film at box speed.

 

When I shoot film, for example: Plus-X I rate the film at EI 125. Then I shoot my camera in AEB mode. So my exposures will be -/+ 1/3 from box speed. Or, Frame 1 - 2 - 3 will be EI 160 - 125 - 100, then I have the film processed as normal.

 

It's just a techniqe the works for me. Working in conjunction with my printer, Michael @ Moonphoto, we generally agree that the best printable neg is usually the Normal or Plus 1/3 exposure.

[stephen sullivan]

OH, Yes John.

 

I do not process my own film. I did enough of that in High School to realize that I like professional lab to do it for me.

 

I get great results with Moonphoto Lab, Seattle, WA who's default is D-76 1:1. I also get great results with Photo Impact, Los Angeles, CA [Hollywood] who's default is Xtol Stock.

[bob_the_builder1]

The PLus-X shot seems to be the fave here and it was shot on a different day from the

others... therefore the test is not a valid comparison as far as Plus-X goes and illustrates the

point very well that differences in lighting, etc. have more of an impact on an image at the

end of the day than differenes between emulsions.

[stephen sullivan]

Bob, I never said it was.