Thin negs with Efke 25

[stuart_kennedy]

I recently shot my first roll of efke 25, EI 25, and souped it in rodinal 1:50 for 8 minutes at 68degrees. My

results were a touch thin for my liking. They are very printable, but not perfect. Tips and tricks for this

film?

Thanks

Stuart

[mikeseb]

I don't use Rodinal so i can't speak to this film/developer combination. But if the negs are

thin in shadow areas, the film is likely underexposed. If thin in highlight areas, then

underdeveloped. It could be both.

 

I understand that for many films Rodinal does not give full film speed, and the optimal EI

for the film is often less than the box ISO speed.

 

Also, Efke 25 is orthopanchromatic, or relatively insensitive to red light. If your negs were

exposed at a time of day when red light predominates, you may have underexposed them.

In late afternoon sunlight, which is quite reddish, is one such light. I usually give an extra

1/2 to 1 stop in such conditions.

 

The Rodinal afficionados here can explain why Rodinal is the "best" developer for this film,

if that is so. I develop mine in Xtol or Mytol at various dilutions, usually 1+2 or 1+3, and it

is just a lovely film with smooth, creamy grain.

 

If you like Efke 25, try Efke 50 too.

[big toys are better]

I'll second what Mr. Sebastian said about the film speed of films in Rodinal as well as his characterization of the spectral sensitivity of the Efke 25, but I think it is only the 100 version that has a panchromatic sensitivity. I'm not certain exactly how the specific graininess of the individual films compares, but the 100 ought to still be fine for even 35mm shooters.

 

I usually downrate my films processed in Rodinal by about 20% and adjust my dilution and agitaton schedule to compensate for any contrast issues. I do also push my films by about one stop when necessary to boost contrast, also in Rodinal, but again adjust contrast by dilution and agitation as well as by adding time.

 

Rodinal has some wonderful attributes, especially its lack of silver replating and bromide drag which allow for "stand" processing which allows for extended processing without agitation, especially at the high dilutions so popular with it (1:100 and above). I can't tell you where your problem was as far as whether underexposed or underdeveloped, but it's easly enough to fix the next time.

[daniel_gregory]

I shoot my Efke at 12 for normal. Regardless of developer (I've tried Xtol (1:1, stock and 1:3),

D76, HC110, but not rodinal) I always found the shadow density to be a little low for my

taste. Once I added the stop it made enought of a difference that I could live with.

[paulh]

I shoot Efke 25 in 120 and 9x12cm sheet, and always develop in Rodinal. I shoot it at box speed and develop using 1+100 dilution for 18 minutes at 20C, with reduced agitation.

 

Perfect negs every time :-)

 

I've even shot a sheet of it at EI100, having forgot to reset my meter while shooting some other film (9x12cm sheets). I used 1+100, but developed for 25-30 minutes, and got surprisingly good negatives.

 

Another option that works well is 1+100, agitate gently (gentle inversions) for first minute, then leave well alone for an hour - i.e. stand development.

[larrydressler]

I am like Dan I shoot it at ISO 12. I use Rodinal at 8 minutes. it also seems to keep the contrast in check. I have shot it at 32 in Diafine and it also looked fine.

 

Though you may want to know that I scan and I do not use an enlarger at this time.

 

Larry

[big toys are better]

Sounds like P C has the Efke down, so I'd suggest trying those techniques. However, I routinely use a "semi-stand" technique-- Rodinal diluted at anywhere between 1:50 to 1:200 and very intermitant agitation (generally every 3-4 minutes at the higher dilutions). Higher dilution and less agitaton enhances the lower midtones and deep shadows, the reverse will favor the upper midtones and highlights

 

Prewash film to thoroughly wet the film emulsion, add diluted developer and agitate for 30' to a minute, knock well to dislodge bubbles and then allow to sit undisturbed for either 3 or 4 minutes, repeating the agitation steps as cited. At the end of determined time, dump developer and do four 1 minute rinses, then into fixer.

 

The full stand method will work fine for very contrasty situations, but I like to use dilution plus minor changes in my agiation schedule to selectively impact upper or lower midtone regions. Changing film speed and development time accordingly will change overall contrast.

[larrydressler]

R Hofland

 

Yes Pre soak the large format and MF and 35mm... I forgot that because you don't do that with Diafine.. and that is how I have been shooting it ... I want to try it in a Stand with Diafine solution "A" but at the moment I am out of the film........ Efke 100 is also a beautiful film when shot at 50 almost the same grain as the 25 infact I shoot it at 50 in Diafine and it seems to be right on at that speed so I wonder if the 50 is like the 25 and a stop or so slower than rated.. the 100 in Diafine acts like a 200-250. but grain at those speeds with the 100 are almost like the old/new or last run Agfa APX-100 though in Rodinal it is great at 1-50.

 

Observations of my own....

 

Larry

[big toys are better]

Larry, I'm happy to hear you like the 100. As far as I can see it is the only panchromatic in the Efke/Adox family, so that and its other characterisitcs makes it a valuable commodity. But you still have to love the ISO 25 stuff!

[larrydressler]

My Friend

 

The 100 a great film It reminds me alot of the Plus-X of the 70's I just printed a rant on this same Photonet about the praise and use of the 25 with a shit load of doubts. It is great to have a slower film in a 200 world but I keep bulk loaders and wish someone... Made a replacement for Panatomic-X it was a beautiful film and yess slow.. but I don't think I ever saw what I wanted with even the APX-25 .... I think that is because it just did not have the "Cream" in my enlargements that I wanted.... though in a Digital age the Efke/Adox with scanning are great films.... I though shoot both 1 stop less and sometimes use Diafine at box rated speeds if needed...

 

No I am not a PRO... I am just the guy who knows how I like to see things and I think the Efke/Adox 100 is a saving grace also for their line... no fancy box.... needed.... Seems there may be improvements... like the world cares outside this small circle of those who care.

 

 

Larry

[walterbriggs]

I once saw a recommendation that a hardener be used during development of this fim. That may solve your problem, but as I had never used this film yet..I can only state what I saw in the Freestyle ad. Hope this helps!