Slow films (like EFKE 25) processing, scanning - giving me headaches

[alexander_strbac]

Thank you Joe! Yes, I know that Robert is an awesome person, have never met him but exchanged quite a few e mails with him ;-).

 

I understand that my approach is not well, not the best ;-) since ilike to jump right in the middle of things (a couple of films, a few developers, a little scanning, a little printing...) and basically have to deal with a million of variables.

 

I'll narrow it down a little to get to know one film, one developer, one camera. Cheers!

 

A.

[paulh]

Hi<P>

 

Robert has a good memory - must be careful ;-)<P>

 

1+100 will work fine for flat or contrasty situations - it is easy to scan, and you can always add contrast should you desire.<P>

 

I've done 1+100 in my 35mm tank, which is only 4ml developer. Works fine. For the 120 tank, I use 6ml and have not had any disasters yet. Do make sure you follow the agitation scheme, even if it doesn't "sound" right - it really does work well. You can check out some examples in my <a href="http://pch.fotopic.net"><b>galleries</b></a> - most shots have the film and developer listed. Do let us know how you get on, and feel free to get in touch via email if you wish.<P>

<BR>

Paul

[Fotohuis RoVo]

Welcome in the Rodinal club :)

 

 

Robert

[big toys are better]

My post above accurately describes the effect that dilution and agitation will have on B&W film development, but only a few developers (such as Rodinal) allow for creative use of the physical chemistry interactions of dilution and agitation)

 

There is a general consensus that you need about 6 ml of stock Rodinal per 8x10 equivilant, so you need to insure that whatever dilution you do use has that amount within it. Thus you would need 1200ml total volume at a 1:200 dilution although I have worked with less. Keep in mind that the 1:200 dilution is being used to selectively conquer contrast issues (and selectively help to open up the darkest of the shadows-- thus it and a strong "semi-stand" technique might well have helped "beam in forrest. morning"), but the 1:100 dilution is also quite effective for most situations. Indeed, unless you have an entire roll of film with steep contrast issues and dark shadows that need to be opened up, the 1:100 (or stronger) dilution ought to be the first choice.

[john_smith175]

I did my EFKE 25 in D76 for 5 minutes at 70.8 degrees. Here are few shots from the roll.

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e368/Kill-CWJ/ART/4.jpg

 

http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e368/Kill-CWJ/ART/?action=view&current=5.jpg

 

http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e368/Kill-CWJ/ART/?action=view&current=3.jpg

[rich815]

Stephen, you got some seriously clipped shadows there, was that a result of your scan or post-process or are the shadows just gone in the negs?

[john_smith175]

I think I lost them in the negative because when I scanned them the only thing I did was resize and add the border.