How to push NeoPan 1600 to 3200 with HC-110?

[aaron_chan1]

I know there is something call push and pull develop, but how to define the dev.

time as 1 push or 1 pull??

 

And now I want to dev my neopan 1600 to 3200 with HC-110 dev. Some people said

increace the dev. time in 15%, is that true?

 

Thanks

Aaron

[nikos peri]

Typically 20% more time. Check out digitaltruth.com

[larrydressler]

AAron to "PUSH" is to make a film faster than the rated box speed to Pull it is to make it less than the box speed.... Alot of films are not even close to the box speed to begin with so that is another matter...

 

Neopan is a t type film so using the old standby Diafine will not work with the push.. you are only going for a 1 stop push from box speed but I think that Neopan is a real 1000 ISO/ASA film so you will need more.... HC-110 is a good developer but it will increase contrast .. yet hold down fog.... with pushing..... Read the Digital truth notes and then decide what you want.....

 

Larry

[bobmichaels]

I shoot Neopan 1600 and find it's a one step push to an e.i. of 1600. Two step push to 3200. Unpushed speed seems to be 800-1000.

 

Don't believe the box speed any more than you would plan on actually getting the EPA estimated mileage shown on the window sticker of your new car.

[bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa]

Aaron: don't listen to people who haven't done it, but say it won't work. They're just doing you a disservice. Don't be lazy, and instead of asking, do your own testing. I don't know what your light is like, but I use Neopan 1600 in Diafine with success (not on every frame, but that's how it works), and so does my friend.

 

You can see his work (and he processes everything in Diafine) here:

 

http://pryingopen.photosight.ru

 

I also run Neopan 400 twice through Diafine to push it to 1250. Microphen, on the other hand offers finer grain, but you need to be more precise about the development times with Microphen, of course.

[bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa]

Forgot to add: if your negatives are too thin in Diafine at 3200, try running Neopan 1600 through it twice (with a hefty rinse in-between the runs to not to contaminate the part A of Diafine). You may also try holding it in the part A for 15 minutes or so, then develop in the part B as usual. My experience tells me that part A is slightly active.

 

If you are very good matching development times to your light when you push, try Microphen instead. I think you'll find both grain and tonality better.

 

Have fun.

[underexpos]

I use and love this film for my Rock and Roll jobs. It is a great film but reacts to different

developers in different ways. I shoot it at 800asa and pull back my developing time

depending on the light I shot it in. Outdoors get a major pull while concerts get a minor

one. As for pushing the film. It doesn't do it very well. One to two stops max. As for the

time. I have long ago given up recommending times as EVERYBODY will do at least one

step differently and thus throw off the time, I can only tell you how I work. This is how I

get to my push-pull development times. I Keep a development log! I start by adding 10%

or 15% to a normal time for high speed film 20% to 25% for low speed. I then will make my

contacts and maybe a few RC test prints. I see what grade of paper I am on and make

adjustments to my time as needed until I get to a good print on grade up from my normal.

I like printing my R&R shots on the low end of thing so I am happy if my prints are around

a 1 1/2. so I have a time for that. I like my daytime shots to have more of a kick so I like to

print on a grade 3 and have a separate time for that situation. The push-pull time should

be one of choice and can/should change as your work changes. It took me about 50 rolls

to really nail down the times I liked. My plus one push is about 15% more than my normal

and my plus two is around 40%. I use a 1:1 developer. Or you can get a good book on the

zone system for 35mm photographers.

Good luck