thierrylaflamme Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 How to develop at home the 35mm film black & white HIE from Kodak (High Speed Infrared film)? I shot my pictures at ISO 100, through a red filter #25. I use DD-X ILFOTEC developer. What would you recommend? (How much time in the tank and what temperature with the chemicals to get a nice contrast for this type of film?) Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobmichaels Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Theirry: unfortunately there is really no such thing as "ISO 100" with IR film as I bet your meter was one of those that reads the visible light and not the IR light. Fortunately HIE is exposed by both using a 25A Did you set the camera at ISO 100 and meter through the filter? If so, I bet your film is about two stops overexposed and you should pull the development about 40% or so. I've shot a lot of HIE but only develop it in HC110 or Rodinal. I never use a meter and always shoot it f8 @ 1/250th with a 25A with some adjutment for subject luminance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen hazelton Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 With a #25 filter, Kodak recommends that you meter at ISO 50 WITHOUT the filter. Now, a #25 filter has a 3-stop filter factor, so normal metering would dictate that you set it 3 stops higher to meter through the filter, or at ISO 400. So yes, sounds like you could be a couple of stops overexposed. Seems like I have heard other variations on the metering. That being said, exposures can vary widely, so don't be surprised to find some shots perfect and many being ruined. Who knows. Even some that are printable may not be their best exposure. Don't expect a "nice" contrast, just deal with what you wind up with. See Kodak's data sheet on the film- it may have been included with the film as well: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f13/f13.jhtml The massive developing chart: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html Includes several Ilford developers with that film, but not your choice. Perhaps consider using a different developer since it's experimental anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Halve the 400 ASA dev time and you won't be too far out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierrylaflamme Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 Thanks for your help and advice! I consider to develop as I would do for a film ISO 400. Hopefully it won't be too bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausdlk Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Have you considered installing a gelatin or polyester filter inside the camera using the BTFR (between the film rails) technique? I have done this with my Xpan II using an 89B filter. Also covering the film pressure plate with semi-reflective paper (the silvery aluminum foil like paper that Kodak Wratten gelatin filters are packaged in) has enabled me to reliably meter using the Xpan's built in meter at ISO 320 developed for 5 1/2 minutes in HC110 at 20C. The results are so dependable with HIE that I no longer bother to bracket. BTW, I tried the same technique with an 87C filter, however, with very poor results. I metered at ~ISO 100 and did bracket some but through three test rolls had nothing printable. I confident that I can make this work if I really needed to but shooting at ISO 320 with the 89B makes it possible to hand hold the camera and the infrared affect is still very strong. I would think that the BTFR method for you SLR users would be a no-brainer. (The Xpan is a rangefinder.) It does take awhile to prepare the camera and this is something that you need to dedicate the camera to -- at least for awhile. And keeping the taped in filter clean is important since it is in virtual contact with the film. Scratching the film is also a problem. The Xpan pulls the film out of the cartridge and then feeds it back in as exposures are taken and I have gotten continuous scratches from one end of the roll to another on some rolls. So, again, keeping clean is very important. But, I like said, being able to use HIE at ISO 320 with predictable results makes all this worthwhile.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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