Bulk loading and the Zone system

[justin_fullmer]

Hi everyone,

I read of an individual who bulk loads his 35mm film but only loads 6 frames a roll so that he can give the film N+ or N- development accordingly. This sounds like a great solution for the 35mm enthusiast who wants to use the zone system but not possibly ruin the rest of the roll because you are developing for one shot. The only thing is that you would have to carry around a lot of rolls of film. Anyone out there who is using this method with comments?

Thanks!

[jorge_gasteazoro]

Do you have to load only 6 pics? If it was me I would load 5

different rolls with 36 exposures labeled N-2, N-2, N, N+1 and N+2

and exchange the rolls as I needed them, when I first started and did

not have a LF camera I used this method, of course everytime I

changed rolls, I always went past the last exposure for at least one

frame. For example if I was loading a N-1 roll and my last exposure

had been 15, I would go back to the 17 exposure to make sure I had no

registration problem etc. You should be able to gauge how many

exposures you need per roll according to your shooting style, but

IMHO 6 exposures is not enough lenght, specially if you mess up

reloading the film and double expose! Good luck.

[bong]

Justin,

<p>

I normally load 12 frames (16 in all to account for the frames lost

while loading the cassette and loading the camera) as a compromise

between bringing many short rolls and being able to use different

development times. I'm now saving up to buy a view camera.

<p>

Your idea will work but I personally don't have the patience to go

through all this pain. More often than not I just end up adjusting

for contrast using different filtration on VC paper. I've no doubt

that the Zone System can be used with any format; however, horses for

courses...

[ted_kaufman]

In *The Book of Pyro*, by Gordon Hutchings (the creator of PMK

developer), he mentions using 3 backs when he shoots rollfilm: one N,

one +1.5, the other -1.5. This seems more workable to me than

shooting with 5 different rolls in one stop increments. But I do

agree, this approach seems a lot better than 6 exp. rolls.

 

<p>

 

The only reservation I have is you run the risk of picking up a bit

of grit on one of the rolls by having them loose in your camera bag

and repeatatively loading and unloading them. You could encounter

some terrific scratches. I would, therefore, strongly recommend you

keep the rolls in snap-top film containers. Grit is the bane of

reloading, so I would also recommend you limit the number of times

you reload cassettes to 2 or 3 times.

[mark_lindsey]

also think about how high your waste per roll will be if you only roll

6 exp on each. probably 50 % of each total roll will be leader or

taped onto the reel!

[wilhelm]

This is totally silly. Keep the N in your Leica M6, the N-1 in the

Nikon F5, the N+1 in the Canon 1V, the N=2 in the Contax RTSIII, and

the N+2 in the Mnolta 9. Like everybody else.

[lemastre]

Unless you approach 35mm photography like view-camera work, where you

stop and deliberate over every scene you shoot and then shoot mutliple

frames of it, trying to employ the zone system is going to tie you in knots.

The 35mm camera is for walking and shooting. Wondering which lens to use

is enough complication. Simplify your shooting routine as much as you can.

Find the right EI for your film and a processing scheme that gives you negs

you can print on a good graded paper or VC paper and do your fiddling in the

darkroom.

[gene crumpler]

As an old bulk loader from way back, I say go for it. Bulk film is

cheap compared to 4x5 film. I use to load all different lengths of

film, 36 exp for long trips, 20 exposures for quick shoots and 10

exposures for testing. Also, I've been able to recycle cassettes

several times by being careful how they are handled. You can take

about 20,000 exposures on bulk film in short rolls for the price of 3

hasselblad backs.

[dave_mueller]

"Unless you approach 35mm photography like view-camera work, where you

stop and deliberate over every scene you shoot and then shoot

mutliple frames of it, " That's how I do it. I usually load 12

frames per roll, but just ordered a bulk roll of Tech Pan and will be

doing a lot of 6 frame rolls for testing! My favorite subject is the

inside of an old school building (built like a cathedral). The

lighting is very low contrast (only about 4 stops total), adding about

20% development time makes it much easier to print. The short rolls

lets me shoot 3 or 4 scenes with minor adjustments.

[richard_ilomaki]

Justin:

 

Keep in mind that when the Zone System was developed there were no VC

papers or even various grades of paper-only Grades 2 or 3 at best.

Then we had to tailor the neg to the paper. It still is worth it when

shooting large format, as the much-improved quality of the print

justifies the time, work and expense.

 

<p>

 

Now, with VC papers, the + or - developing can be made up for in

printing, especially if one uses filters for local contrast control

in burning in. There is no substitute for a "properly" exposed and

developed negative, except perhaps one that is overexposed a bit and

underdeveloped a bit. The shadows get well exposed and the highlights

are not burned out.

 

A better answer that I have found is to use a compensating developer

such as split D23 which increases the tonal range by as much as 3-4

steps. If you are really interested I can explain that.

 

<p>

 

Cheers

[wilhelm]

Richard, Many of the very best papers, such as Ansco Indiatone, and

Kodak Illustrater's Special were only available in s single grade.

[richard_ilomaki]

Thanks Bill.

 

<p>

 

I go back only to Kodabromide and Dupont Velour non VC, but I know of

what you speak and the warmth and lustre of the old paper prints even

today is beautiful. Then it certainly was the best way to compensate

for the difference in dynamic range between our eyes and the photo

materials.

 

<p>

 

Thanks