sexton dev times for tmax 100

[mark_lindsey]

Hello everyone, I have been working with tmax rs dev. with 120mm tmax 100. first, should I be using tmax dev rather than rs with roll film?

second--if rs is okay to use with roll film, I am using sexton's time/dev for a starting point (T-100 EI-80 T-MAX RS 1:9 13 min @ 75F )and am finding that it greatly underdevelopes the film, has anyone else used these recomendations and had similar results?

 

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thanks

[claudio_szarfsztejn]

Mark:

How do you think 1:9 dilution? The solution, in her work recomended

dilution, is 1:4. To do 1:9, I used the gallon from first dillution,

and mix 1+1 with water. Please, tell me your dillution technique.

Claudio

[mark_lindsey]

Hello Claudio,

 

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I found the 1:9 dilution in an article by John sexton, perhaps it was

a misprint? Where did you find the 1:4 dilution at? It sounds much

more reasonable considering what I have gotten with 1:9.

[jeff_white]

John mixes from the developer concentrate. Put packet B into bottle A

and shake well. When you want to mix developer, mix the amount that

you need using 1 part concentrate to 9 parts water. Following Kodaks

instruction wil give you a 1:4 mix as stated above. Remember that

Johns reccomendations are only starting points and may not work for

everyone. Actually John's current starting point for T-max 100 and T-

max RS 1:9 is 11 minutes at 75F, so if you are getting thin negatives

at 13 minutes then it is: your mix, thermometer, agitation, shutter,

light meter or maybe your water.

[mark_lindsey]

Jeff,

 

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so you're saying that the concentrate is only "a" and "b" with no

water added?--and then its 9 parts water with 1 part of the

concentrate to get the working solution? hmmm- I think I may have

diluted the concentrate way too much---I have been working with hc-

110 too long I think! Let me know if this is what you are saying.

 

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thanks,

 

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Mark

[cesar_barreto]

Mark,

Maybe, it should be remembered that J. Sexton usually works with a

rotary processor and that it speeds up things a bit. And of course,

by this time, he has a very solid experience on where to make light

measuring with T-max at ISO 80. Are you sure your films showed under-

development and not under-exposure? Check the shadows and the answer

will be clear.

 

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Cesar B.

[jeff_white]

Mark, That is correct. Just what comes in the bottle after part b

has been added. I keep my bottle in the fridge after it has been open

to extend its keeping qualities. Also, only use the mixed

developer "one shot". This will help with consistancy.

[mark_lindsey]

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

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Cesar, I am sure its underdevelopment, I always check the rebate edge

(where the film type info is printed) to see whats up. When the rebate

info is faded, then it is underdeveloped, and it was.

 

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Thanks to both of you for the info on dilution. I will adjust my

methods so further testing can continue.

[william_rodriguez__md]

Some years back I was involved in John Sexton's method of diluting

the T-Max developer 1:9 for T-Xax 100 at 75F. After months of

spending mucho dinero I decided to quit using the film and Sexton's

method due to the desastrous results. Years later I saw a beautiful

b&w print in a professional lab of one of my friends and asked him

about the print. Well, he answered, I first tested the film on a

beautiful day with a good tonal range to determine the EI useful for

my camera. Then I open 2 stops metering from a white bright subject

to determine my highlight development time. When I mastered both of

these steps I had my personal EI for the film and the appropiate

development time for the highlights at that EI with my camera. From

there on, it was easy for me to produce prints like the one I am

showing here. His developer: old D-76, 1:1 dilution at 68F.

I have been doing that, after I found my EI and highlight development

time and I have been very happy ever after.

William.

[chris_jordan]

I use "old" D-76, too. I usually dilute 1:3, and process at 66

degrees F. The results are fantastic with HP5 (@200) and FP4 (@50). I

think there are many combinations that will work nicely. I've heard

good things about the T grain films in Perceptol, although I havn't

studied this combo, myself.

 

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Good luck!

 

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Chris