120 trix in print devo

[paul_ehat]

ive never done this and want to try it to increase grain in already

exposed film. who can help me or point me in the direction of reliable

help...?

[don_mckeith]

I haven't done any TX for a while,but my best guess would be rated @200

 

dektol 1:8 - 5-51/2 min

 

6 min should be very contrasty and should be very grainy-

 

if you're in a rush

 

dektol 1:3 for 1;45-2;00 min

[lex_jenkins]

The film is already exposed, right? So you're left with development tricks to increase grain.

 

Extended development is one way to do it. However in addition to increasing grain this can also make the negatives more difficult to print.

 

Using a developer that behaves differently at different dilutions can help. This may enable you to get increased grain without significantly increased development.

 

For example, Ilford's Microphen produces low grain in stock solution or at 1+1 dilution, but becomes significantly grainier at 1+3. So does D-76/ID-11, but I think Microphen grain is more pronounced at 1+3.

 

Developing Tri-X in extremely dilute Rodinal can produce very coarse grain. I've used Rodinal at 1:300 and stand development (little or no agitation) for two hours to get this effect. However some people are uncomfortable with stand development because of the risk of uneven development. So you might prefer to agitate at least every 5-10 minutes with Rodinal at 1:200 or 1:300.

 

Very dilute Ilfosol-S can also produce grainy negs, but fogging also increases so I can't recommend it. Perhaps if you added extra restrainer it would be okay, but I'd want to test it on a junk roll first.

 

Opinions differ about the effects of agitation on grain. In my experience any differences are fairly minor and mostly of interest to photographers who seek the finest degree of any advantage in their processing. Developer selection and dilution seems to produce more significant effects.

 

Other, riskier, techniques could include a long presoak (an hour or more) and increasing the temperature of the chemicals and water. While some photographers believe a short presoak can improve development, a long presoak may produce interesting results. Warmer chemicals and rinse water may increase grain, but don't get them hot - hot chemicals and water will only result in reticulation, which isn't the same thing as coarse grain.

[don_mckeith]

I agree with Lex,that print developer is not the ideal way to increase grain.It's a good way to increase contrast with normal development -if needed, but usually results in bulletproof negs by the time you get to large grain.

 

and -imo, it's not that easy to get >>large<< grain in modern emulsions.

 

The best way I've found to get large grain is by enlargement.I shoot 35mm TX @ 200 ,usually with a wide angle lens,trying to keep my subject to 1/4 to 1/3 of the frame.Then stand developed in d-76 1:3 for 1 hr,which gives me extended development,but keeps the contrast somewhat under control,and produces alot of fine grain. Then I reverse the column on my enlarger and print on the floor,which gives 30- 50 inches of height without having the head all the way up.

 

It's kind od a PITA but I haven't found a better way to get >>LARGE<<

grain, and I would surely be interested in hearing a better way,if anyone has any ideas.

[profhlynnjones]

Hi Paul,

 

We used to do this all the time for 100 or 400 b/w films. Dektol 1:1 for 3 minutes at 70 degrees F.

 

Lynn

[profhlynnjones]

Hi Paul,

 

We used to do this all the time for 100 or 400 b/w films. Dektol 1:1 for 3 minutes at 70 degrees F.

 

Lynn