janet cull Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 I have some Kodak technical pan film to process but I don't see that film listed on the Massive Developing Chart. Is it the same as Ektapan? Or what film is comparable? I plan to use HC110, in case anyone has any experience with this combination. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay ott Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html">Try This</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay ott Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Sorry, it won't allow a direct link. It's under Kodak Tech Pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janet cull Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 Yikes...I went back again and found the info right there. I don't know how I missed it before. Sorry. Odd, though, it says 4 to 12 minutes for dilution B. That's a rather wide range. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert meier Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Kodak makes (made?) Technidol Developer specifically for Tech Pan. It does a wonderful job, giving a full tonal range, which is the problem with any other developer. It is a one-shot liquid. I have some still in my cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_kaplan1 Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 The wide range is because some people want to use it as a full range slow speed film while others want to use it for document copying and other things where high contrast is desirable. Best bet is to run your own tests for exposure (ISO) and developing time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 Ye. If you've never tried this before, it might help to say what you are looking for. Continuous tone? Document copy? Internegative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janet cull Posted July 17, 2005 Author Share Posted July 17, 2005 I figured "test" would be the correct answer, but I had 1 roll of exposed film with no plans to use it again. I made a (evidently wrong) mathematical figure and processed it for 8.5 min. I intended to ask in another thread; what does overdeveloped look like? I'm assuming that's what I did. They're *very* dark negs. When I hold them over a light I can see an image on a few of the frames. Actually I have 1 more roll of the film and will give it back to my son-in-law who gave it to me. It'sa prize film, in his opinion, so I'll let him have it and do it right. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_c._miller Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 Yeah, its a prize film, all right. And it has to be developed in Technidol or its alternative from Photographer's Formulary. Otherwise you will get negatives which require 00 grade paper or a green filter to print. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julio Fernandez Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 I have got reasonably good results with Rodinal 1:100, 7.5 minutes, exposing at 25 ASA. It was 120 film but the emulsion is the same. Tech Pan is a high contrast film with outstanding definition and low grain, a wonderful film. I regret Kodak does not make it anymore. Excellent for architectural photography! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discpad Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I have two boxes of Technidol packets in my closet: Essentially it's a VERY LOW CONTRAST developer, to offset the VERY HIGH CONTRAST Tech Pan film. Alternately, you can use a stock dilution of C41 developer for Tech Pan: EI 32: 7.75 minutes @ 21C EI 50: 10 minutes @ 20C EI 100: 10 minutes @ 24C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_fox Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Janet, Try this: Rodinal 1+300 20C 14m 30s, about 5-10 turns in first 30 sec followed by 1 turn in 60-90 sec. Result is very very close to using Kodak Technidol. Excellent results. Hasselblad 80/2.8 Planar Rodinal 1+300 (1.33ml+400ml)14'30"<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_fox Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I mean 1.33ml + 400ml was used to develope the 120 TP roll. I also use Rodinal 1+300 ratio - 0.83ml + 250ml for 35mm rolls. Same result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Besides the minute quantities of developer used for a roll... I have had complete exhaustion with 5ml per roll... how in the hell do you measure out 1.83ml of Rodinal? Hundredths of a mililitre?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_fox Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I have a tiny pipette that can measure 0.005ml. This is the fact, not fiction. I use a 10ml measuring cylinder to measure, then use the pipette to measure the rest to the reqruied amount. The reason why I post the amount is, many people thought that there is a "mininimum required amount" for Rodinal. I use very small amount of Rodinal for all my processing with 100% success rate. For example, for a 35mm rool, I use 3.2ml +236.8ml for 1+75 ratio. Also, my Rodinal is almost 2 years old. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Thanks for coming back on that Steve. Wow... some people are going to have to redo their justify-my-digital-camera math with your chemical quantities! Let's see: 500ml of Rodinal = 5 Euros, so that's what... 150 rolls, or 3 cents a roll for developer. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_fox Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Yes, there's more fun in B&W. More info regarding Rodnial: 1) I use only Reverse Omosis water (Or you may use distilled water) for everything - presoak, developer, rinse, stop, fix, hypo, photo flo etc. Only the last step rinsing is with running water. Water may be the key of success. 2) I buy 500ml Rodinal. Then devide it into 100ml smaller bottles - use brown glass 100ml "soft drink" bottles. This is important. Rodinal gets oxidized easily, and there are deposites as well. Interesting thing is, even oxidized and with deposites, it still works for me. In fact, I worry about the deposites, which means some chemicals crystalized and possibly altering the composition of the solution. However, so far so good. Still works. Here's another TP photo. TP-135, 1+300 Nikon 35/1.4<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_fox Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 One more. Developed with full strength Technidol. Nikon 35-70/2.8<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohad_drucker Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Not exactly the subject, but check this if you're interested. I'm curious to hear something of others' experiences. http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/astro/techpan-drucker.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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