If you had to choose just one B&W film ....

[kpo]

I'm thinking about simplifying things in my photography. One camera, one lens, one film, one developer. I've spent much time experimenting with different films and developers. I'd like to stick with one set-up for a while and see what happens.

 

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If you could choose only one B&W film to shoot for the next year, what would you choose ... and how would you go about choosing?

 

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In my case I shoot mostly candids, street and travel shots in 35mm. Always available light, always hand held, alwasy B&W. I do my own processing and printing. I tend to prefer the look of traditional films over tabular grain and c41 process films.

 

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Potential choices for me include:

 

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(1) Agfa 100 developed in rodinal 1:50 or xtol 1:3. I've found these very pleasing. Nice gradation, tonality, sharpness and grain. Only problem ... borderline film speed (too slow). Sometimes have to hand hold at slow speeds.

 

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(2) Tri-x developed in xtol 1:3 or rodinal 1:50. Nice gradation and tonality. Only problem ... grain and sharpness not as nice as option 1 above.

 

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Tough choice for me. What do you think?

[melvin_bramley]

I don,t know why you dislike the newer emulsions but MY choice would

be...Delta 400 exposed normally at EI650.For low light EI800. good

results. Developer Xtol 1:1. Paper Ilford FB for choice prints Ilford

RC for the others.

To round it off<I have far too much camera Eq,t with the newest a

Nikon f100 to a very old F2S Plus 14 lenses.If I had to keep one

camera & one lens it would be the F2S & a Nikkor 55 2.8 micro.

[silverhalide1949]

Ilford Delta 400 rated at ei 400, developed in XTOL 1:1 with a 40% pull.Try the Delta it may change your mind about tabular grain films. RO

[dbltap4]

Have always had good results with HP-5+ for street shooting. The

speed is right, the grain is right. As always, the unkown factors

are how big you will be making enlargements, and what other

expectations you have. HP-5+ is quite flexible, speed-wise. Second

choice would be FP-4+ pushed a stop. My developer of choice has been

ID-ll.

Jim

[bobatkins]

</em>Italics off (I hope!)</I>

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I'd take HP5+ too. Smoother grain than Tri-X, very flexible, very

forgiving.

[olliesteiner]

Pan F+ at EI 50, developed in Rodinal 1+25 for six minutes at 68

degrees F. I'll gladly forego the versatility and convenience of

faster films for the incredible sharpness, long tonal range and

virtually grainless 11"X14" prints from a 35mm negative of this

fabulous combination. It makes me think: no wonder some 19th century

photography looks so gorgeous. - A slow film developed in Rodinal is

hard to beat. Perhaps most of the advances in the last 100 years are

advances in convenience rather than in quality. As to why I use

1+25, rather than 1+50 or 1+100: I simply haven't yet tried the

other dilutions yet; I certainly will in the future, and I'll learn

from the experience, but I'm not in a big hurry, as the 1+25 dilution

(recommended by Ilford on the Pan F+ box) looks so beautiful!

-Ollie

[nigel_smith2]

in 35mm, FP4+<P>

for 120, Delta 400

[conrad_hoffman]

I've standardized on FP4+ for just about everything and love the

tonal qualities. I shoot it at an EI of 64 or a bit more and avoid

overdevelopment- too tired of difficult darkroom sessions and

overcontrasty prints. I tend to shoot things that are firmly fixed to

the earth and don't move much. If I were shooting candids and street

shots, I'd go with HP5, Tri-X, or TMY. Never tried Delta, but it

might be better than the others. I dislike t-grain films, but have

had very good street shots with TMY & Xtol. The reason I'd likely go

with TMY or Delta 400 is to avoid being locked into the larger grain

of the conventional films, and to avoid the pushed look. That's just

me- lots of people like the edgy grainy pushed look. Depends on what

you want.

[ted_kaufman]

If you are hand holding and shooting street scenes, the best choice

is Delta 400. HP5+ is a good second choice. Both are better than

Tri-X. TMY is the sharpest and finest grained of the 400 class

films, but it's quite contrasty and has a very steep toe, which means

you'll often loose important shadow detail. It's also slower, by at

least 1/3 stop, than Delta 400 and HP5+.

 

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Why not two films? A 400 speed for handheld and a 100 speed for

contemplative work. Any of the 100 speed films would be a good

choice: FP4+, Delta 100, TMX or Acros. They all have their

particular strengths and signature look, but they all offer excellent

image quality.

 

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In any case, if you must choose one, Delta 400 is it.

[scott_walton2]

In LF I would chose Ektapan and for higher speed, TXP. For medium

format Ilford Pan F. All developed in Divided D76 or Diafine for higher

acutance. The smooth tones of Ektapan are amazing!

[kpo]

Thanks everyone for your input. This is the first time I've asked a

question here. I'm impressed with the depth and quality of responses.

 

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It's interesting to note that thus far Ilford Delta 400, HP-5+, FP4+

and PanF have all received strong endorsements. Not so for Kodak or

Agfa films, which are the films I've worked with the most to date. I

have used FP4+ in xtol 1:3 and the results are very nice to my eye --

I just like APX 100 a bit better.

 

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Also, in many cases the T-grain films are recommended over

traditional films. I've experimented with TMY and TMX, but not Delta

400. I find TMY and TMX very sharp and fine grain for their speed,

but I've yet to get "a look" that I'm really pleased with. The TMY

gives me what I might call a plastic look -- very sharp and fine

grain, but not the 3-D luminosity that I've seen with some other

films (such as Tri-X). I don't see this as much with TMAX -- which

probably (if I got my technique perfect) could be exceptional.

 

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No one here seems to like Tri-X! Despite its grain, I've seen nice

results from Tri-X. Salgado's work is one well-known example.

 

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Based on input to this question I'll have to try Delta 400 and HP5+

(which I've always thought was a *lot* like Tri-X).

 

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Also, can anyone point me to sources where I could look at some fine

work done with Delta 400, HP5+ and TMY?

 

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Thanks, Kevin.

[gary_tto1]

I don't know if it would be my choice as my only film , but I agree

with you on the APX 100. When developed in Rodinol 1:50 it is a hard

combination to beat. If you feel like experimenting, try APX 100 In

DiXactol. Use the single bath partial stand method and the non acid

fix from Photographers Formulary.As Of late, this has been my

developer of choice.

[charlie_strack]

The one Kodak is now discontinuing: Verichrome Pan. I don't think a

better film has ever been made.

[peter_schauss1]

If you are working with a stainless reel in your developing tank

you will find that Tri-X is a bit easier thread than HP5+ because the

film is thicker. Just another way that Tri-X is a more forgiving

film.

[kpo]

I didn't know that Verichrome was being discontinued. This has been

my favorite film in 120 (never seen it offered in 35mm). To my eye

the gradation, tones, etc. are wonderful. Great combination of

sharpness, grain and overall look. I've also found it quite

forgiving. Do you know if it's still available at all .... if so for

how long? Thanks.

[jim_boltz]

Concerning Verichrome Pan, supplies should be available until

production ceases July '02. Order your bricks now - this emulsion

has had a terrific history beginning with the orthochromatic days

(darkroom work under red light) until it became a pan film with a

loyal, almost cult, following. Extremely sharp medium-speed, and

very forgiving.

[back_alley_.]

i use delta 400 & 3200, in 120. that combo can handle most anything.

i develop in ddx or ilfosol s. i like the look of the ilford films

over kodak. the 400 delta is a great all 'round film but i use the

3200 whenever i can. i prefer low lite, street shooting.

[floren_pge]

I like FP4+ for 35 mm, HP5+ for 120 and 4x5. ID-11 diluted 1:1 for

all of them. I fudge the EI for each film.

 

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Cheerio

[pete_schermerhorn]

About 40 years ago, when I decided to "grow-up" from 35mm to MF, I

evaluated all the films available at the time. I was torn between

Plus-X and Verichrome Pan......but the retouching surface on the Plus-

X convinced me. I worked-up a good zone system regime with Acufine,

and have been using the combination ever since. I've tried most new

films as they appear on the market, but haven't seen a reason to

change (although I have used TechPan and HC-110 for landscapes, in

recent years).

[michael_devoue]

I find the Ilford film are easiest to load with stainless reels. Just

my experience-

 

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One film? My choice would be neopan 400- alhtough I'm sure Tri-X and

HP5+ are great too. I dislike the T-grain stuff- just preference.

 

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I don't try to downplay the grain using solvent developers- to my eyes

Neopan in (photographer's formulary) FX-2 looks <u>way</u> better.

Grainier, yes, but alot sharper and easier printing.

[robert_marvin]

Personally, I usually use 2 films--EFKE KB 25 @ an e.i, of 64

and Ilford HP5 @ 400, 800, or 1600--all developed in D23.

However, if I had to use only ONE film it would be Plus X (which I

still occasionaly use) which IMO works beautifully @ 125 and

can be pushed 1 or 2 stops, when needed with little loss of

quality.

[Rob F.]

Ilford Delta Pro 100 (or 400, depending on one's needs). These films

have a good balance between fine grain, sharpness, and gradation.

Develop in XTOL.

[andrew1]

Well Kevin, I'll throw a vote for Tri-X. I agree with so many here

who just don't like the look of the Tmax films. It's a good film,

technically, but it just looks a little dead to me- mechanical- I

think the grain is too uniform.

 

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Tri-X and Plus-X, on the otherhand are my favorites. I can get

very good results that make me happy with Tri-X at ISO's from 50

to 1600, so I carry this as an all purpose film when I don't know

what I will encounter. Standard ISO is 320, but I shoot it

according to the light. Similarly, Plus-X is my favorite for portraits

and lanscapes in good light- and probably my favorite all around

film. Shoot it at 100 or 125.

 

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I run film in Rodinol- recently had good results with the adition of

sodium ascorbate, as suggest in this forum, but for Tri-X pushed

or pulled, I use ID11 (pulled) or Microphen (pushed). As I said,

with some tweaking I can get results atISO 50-1600 with grain

and tonality that look very similar at all speeds- with very different

chemistry, times, and temps. Write if you want some info.

[wayne__]

Hands down, FP4+ in Rodinal or Xtol. Because its lovely and

available in big sheets. I'd love to try apx 100, but it isnt

available in 8x10 sheets afaik.

[mark_riendeau1]

Tri-x developed in PMK Pyro. I have tried others and I always ask

myself why try to fix something that isn't broken.